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Old 01-16-2012, 02:25 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by dougsale View Post
Those of us with 2 separate tanks can hook up to the sewer outlet at the campsite and leave the gray tank drain valve open and the gray water will flow right to the sewer same as at home. But the black tank valve should never be open except to dump when full or before departing.
Or, leave them both closed. When one or both is nearly full or you're leaving, dump the black tank first, then the gray tank last. That way you flush the slinky hose with soapy gray water from the shower before putting it way.
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Old 01-16-2012, 02:44 PM   #16
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I'm definitely thinking of getting a Flush King. I was also looking at the Sewer Solution. It seems to me that it's kind of this way:

Sewer Solution: need a water source to be able to dump, have to carry both sewer hose AND the hoses for the SS in case you have no water source when dumping, but no stinky slinky when you do have a water source.

Flush King: Needs a water source, but uses your own stinky slinky, so if you have no water source, you can just dump, er, traditionally, no extra hoses, and when you use it, you end up with a clean(ish) slinky. (Cleaner than just the grey water rinse method, I mean.)

So if you only ever camp with full hookups, a Sewer Solution will work great for you. If you sometimes boondock or camp with partial hookups or sometimes use dumps with no water source, the Flush King will be better. Is this a good conclusion?

And of course, I have a tank flushing wand as well, so I'm told that I'm able to get along well without either. I'm going to try the wand for flushing the tanks first and see if that all works before spending the money on the Flush King, of course.
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Old 01-16-2012, 02:46 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by polarlyse View Post
Hey Kamiak, thanks for the reference for the tank flush connection. I plan to order one for my trailer. Ours has the thetford connection. Do I need to order 2 adapters ????? One to attach the flusher to the trailer outlet and one to attach my hose to the flusher ??????? I guess if I needed a new hose I'd just get one for the proper connecton but in the meantime ????

Thanks again.
You do need one adapter that converts from Thetford to Valterra at the coach, then connect the hydroflush contraption to that (watch that rubber O-ring...it likes to fall out, and if it does, it doesn't seal worth sh*t). I don't use the flush everytime, so I haven't converted my hoses to Valterra. My trailer's not stored at home, so I can't take a quick look , but my recollection is that you can't flip the adapter around to convert Valterra back to Thetford...the sexes are "off". It's important to have the first adapter at the trailer in place, as that seems to be the pressure point. After the hydroflush, it seems less critical, and I end up attaching a Thetford hose to the hydroflush, it "kinda" fits, and so far, so good. The other option, as I suggested earlier, would be to convert your hose(s) to Valterra, then you would always need to use the Thetford-Valterra adapter attaching to the coach, or permanently convert the coach to Valterra. Otherwise, the hydroflush works great, and has bailed me out of a couple of jams that no amount of rocking the coach would solve. If you find the adapter works both ways...let me know.
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:08 PM   #18
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You Guys Are Making Teardrop Trailers Sound Good

I don't have a trailer yet, so that puts me one step below newbie. Maybe this is a dumb question, but from looking at the many posts concerning toilet issues it seems to me that the minute that you put a toilet in a trailer you increase the maintenance issues about threefold. If your plan is to live in the trailer for weeks/months at a time it's worth it, but if you're only going to use the trailer a week at a time a few times per year it seems like you'd be better off just using the bathroom at the campground and not having to deal with having a toilet in the trailer.
AND - given that many owners may never camp in a location that doesn't have a sewer hook-up it seems like the standard trailer toilet set-up is backwards. Instead of having the toilet empty directly into the holding tank it should be connected to a pipe that leads to a Y-valve (like on a boat). Turn the valve one way and the sewage would flow to the black water tank, turn it the other way and it would flow directly out the pipe and into the campground sewer system, just like your toilet at home does. To my unschooled mind it looks like the current system is a holdover from when campgrounds didn't have sewers.
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:17 PM   #19
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Maybe someone should invent a camper with an incinerating black tank. Or, hey, you could invent something that would turn it into free energy!

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Old 01-16-2012, 03:41 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Mr.Bill View Post
from looking at the many posts concerning toilet issues it seems to me that the minute that you put a toilet in a trailer you increase the maintenance issues about threefold.
Somehow this has been made out to be way more complicated than it is. You want a fully functioning bathroom, really, you do. Not that hard to keep a functioning bathroom working correctly.
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Old 01-16-2012, 04:57 PM   #21
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To: Kamiak. Thanks again. One of these days I will need to be replacing the drain valves for my grey and black tanks. At that time it would be easy to convert my system to the valterra type. Is there any incentive to do that vs. simply leaving it alone and keeping the thetford system ?????

TO: Mr.Bill, From what I gather ( from discussion I read here ) the problem is with the "sludge" gathering along the way and not remaining in a solution that is easy to flush through the system. It sits, hardens and then fails to flow. By leaving it in the tank it has the time to liquify and flows properly when drained. I think that is why it is recommended not to leave it open to the drain. The grey tank is OK to let flow because there is no "sludge" issue there. But I would still leave the grey tank ( if present ) closed and drain it only when it is almost full. If you leave it open to flow you will not have the grey water to flush the hoses after the black water. And that would make the job nasty.
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:58 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Bill View Post
I don't have a trailer yet, so that puts me one step below newbie. Maybe this is a dumb question, but from looking at the many posts concerning toilet issues it seems to me that the minute that you put a toilet in a trailer you increase the maintenance issues about threefold. If your plan is to live in the trailer for weeks/months at a time it's worth it, but if you're only going to use the trailer a week at a time a few times per year it seems like you'd be better off just using the bathroom at the campground and not having to deal with having a toilet in the trailer.
AND - given that many owners may never camp in a location that doesn't have a sewer hook-up it seems like the standard trailer toilet set-up is backwards. Instead of having the toilet empty directly into the holding tank it should be connected to a pipe that leads to a Y-valve (like on a boat). Turn the valve one way and the sewage would flow to the black water tank, turn it the other way and it would flow directly out the pipe and into the campground sewer system, just like your toilet at home does. To my unschooled mind it looks like the current system is a holdover from when campgrounds didn't have sewers.
I used to have an old sailboat (27' Coronado) and the choices were: flush to the holding bag, dump in the ocean, or pump out at the station. When everything was in order it worked ok. I was always in a marina when not sailing, but waking up on those cold, cold windy nights made me glad the head was in working order. My first night in my 'Stream I didn't have sewer hooked up or water in the holding tank. The clubhouse was a long cold walk. I want to be able to make full use of the bathroom next time!
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:18 PM   #23
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Word of caution for folks who have sperate gray and black tanks. I would be careful for leaving the gray water valve open all the time when hooked up to the sewer, unless there is water seal in the hose (low point in hose where water fill the hose) there is a potential of sewer air backing up into the trailer. The best practice is to keep the valve closed and open when the tank needs to be emptied.
This is my opinion and I may be wrong
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:36 PM   #24
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We usually do not leave our grey tank valve open when we have sewer hookups...mostly because I want to have some grey water to "rinse" out the hose after dumping the black tank.

That having been said, with an open grey valve, one should not get sewer gases coming back into the trailer if the p-traps in the kitchen, vanity and shower have water in them.
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Old 01-16-2012, 06:52 PM   #25
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One more question...

First, thanks for all the good info here. I have one more dumb, dump question re dumping vs sewer hookup. I get the impression that when dumping to a dump tank you are just hanging the end of your hose into the tank after opening its lid, whereas an individual hookup allows you to actually connect. Is that true or am I missing something?
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:06 PM   #26
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Most sewer connections are just the hose inserted into a pipe. The collar should fit snug so as not to flop out and spill on the ground, but not always. I sometimes need to use a block of wood or a stone to assure the hose stays in place if the collar is a sloppy fit. Mostly it's not a problem just something to beware of. I've never had one that was a secure hook up. Many of the better dump stations have a foot operated flip lid that holds your elbow and is less likely to spill. It's not rocket science and after you do it you'll see what we have been saying. Get some good disposable gloves before you start. It's not a pleasant job but it is necessary and a little care will prevent it from being a real nasty job.
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:11 PM   #27
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When we are dumping at a dump station, since it's very temporary, we usually just stick the end of the 3" dump hose into the 3"+ hole, make sure it's not going to get away from us using the cover or a rock (there are usually a few good-sized rocks there others have used) and let 'er rip.

However, when we have hookups at a campsite, we use a 90 degree elbow hooked to the end of the 3" hose and put that into the hole. (Pic #1) The elbow we have has several sizes of threading on it, so IF there are threads on dump hole pipe we screw it in...that assures that it doesn't get out and cause a mess. When there's just a hole and no thread, we still use the elbow, but do as Roger above does and stick the elbow into the hole and weight it down to secure it.

Some RV parks with hookups require that you have an airtight connection so that odors don't come out. There is a soft rubber/foam attachment that you can get to fit tightly into any hole when there aren't threads. (Pic #2)

I'd recommend getting a sewer hose support system (there are a couple of types) to help guide the hose to the dump hole on a downhill grade so that gravity can do its job. As we all know, s**t doesn't run uphill. (Pic #3)...
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Old 01-17-2012, 09:44 AM   #28
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Threaded Elbow is Best...

...as illustrated beautifully above.
Thread it in.
Provide slope with a slinky as shown.
Keep black (main) valve closed until you are 3/4 full.
Keep gray (auxiliary) valve open until you anticipate a black water dump. Then, let the gray fill up a bit for a good, apres-black rinse.
Dump the black.
Then dump the gray.
Close your black valve.
Add 1/4 cup CampaChem* and 2 gal water through the toilet.**
Leave the gray water valve open.
Begin the cycle anew.
Sewer gas is not an issue if you have water in your P-traps.

We are living part-time in our Airstream here in Mesa, AZ and this system works great!

There's nothing like a good dump!
* I prefer the environmentally-destructive, formaldehyde-based brand; but it is prohibited in CA and some other states. It should not be used if you dump into a septic tank.
**Never leave your black tank completely empty.
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