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Old 05-04-2003, 07:18 PM   #1
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1973 23' Safari
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NEED HELP with tank support

We have removed the black water tank from our '67 safari and had a new metal pan built and now we need to have the angle irons that support it replaced and the ears that the irons are bolted to fabricated and welded. Does anyone have any pictures of this for the guy helping us fix our unit?

Does just the angle irons support the metal box and the white holding tank with no cross members under it? It seems like when it's full it would be too heavy. Ours was completely rusted out for us to know how it's supposed to look.

I also need a pix of the hose storage behind the bumper so we can rebiuld that too. Otherwise we will just make a wild ass guess!!!

this pix is the before image...if it makes any sense!!!
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Old 10-20-2003, 10:14 PM   #2
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only 5 months late...

The cross members supporting the tank are simple 1"x1" steel angles, with a triangle welded in as a stop to keep the galvanized pan from sliding around. There are two holes drilled, each approximately 1-3/4" from each end to accept the bolts through the "ear" brackets.

The "ear" brackets are approximately 1-1/2" tall by 3-1/2" wide steel plate with holes in them to accept the bolts. The "ears" are welded to the channels of the subframe.

i had them all re-fabricated since mine were as rusted out as yours.

christopher
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Old 10-21-2003, 09:16 AM   #3
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great drawing...that's about how we had it made...we didn't do the stiffeners tho but I don't see how that thing can move...it's in there so tight and the toilet flange keeps it in place laterally

thanks tho...
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Old 10-21-2003, 09:54 AM   #4
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I am making exactly the same repairs now, and have removed the rear cross member. I still need to lower more belly skin to get to the front cross member.

Question, is the tank held up on its own? Can I remove the metal box without removing the plastic tank?

Jim
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Old 10-21-2003, 10:11 AM   #5
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short answer: no.

there are three attachments points on most black tanks, besides the supports: the toilet flange may be threaded into the black tank, the vent pipe is likely hose-clamped to the tank, and the tank probes are wire-crimped. if you try to make them support the tank, you could cause damage to the other fittings.

the tank sits on polystyerne foam inside of the galvanized sheet metal pan, which sits on the 1x1 steel angles. in order to replace the pan and cross members, you need to separately support the tank if you don't want to disconnect it. a new black water tank could run you $500 because it will probably have to be be custom made, if you can't find one used in a salvage yard.

christopher
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Old 10-21-2003, 10:31 AM   #6
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Christopher,

My tank is in good condition -- I believe, but the metal box is badly rusted. If I lower the pan and the tank stays in place I can support it as soon as the pan is out of the way. If the tank doesn't hold itself in position, what is the process for removing the tank and pan together?

Jim
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Old 10-21-2003, 10:43 AM   #7
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My experience (one time) is that if the tank is empty, and firmly attached to the flange, you could do as you describe. Drop the pan and support the tank right away. You may be able to offer support before you drop the pan at the outlet since the bumper bottom has to be removed before you can remove the belly sheet.

I would not leave it hang for long, a couple of jack stands and a 2X4 will do.

You may want to consider deleting the belly sheet covering the pan. Newer models did not do this. I think the rust gets started by grit between the pan and belly wearing off the galvanized coating and trapping moisture.

YMMV
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Old 10-21-2003, 11:19 AM   #8
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new pan

we had a new metal pan made by a local metal worker for $100 and it's a beauty.

I don't know if you're supposed to, but we drilled a hole in the bottom of the metal box just in case....wouldn't want that thing filling up from an unknown leak in the white tank and falling out sometime in the future.

This job doesn't leave much room for creativity...it's just one that has to be redone just like it was done. We had to have 2 new angle iron bars made and arranged to be bolted into place. After having to take it out to fix some wires about 3 times ...we can do it well now.

I did reuse the styrafoam and replace any bad places with foam cut from packing material to hold the box at the right angle to flow well.

The new bars, welding the frame for the back end droop was $150 more than the box...I was real pleased. We both got under there and scrubbed rust, primed and painted the whole underneath area when the box was out...looked like new. Removing and replacing the bellypan was the hardest part...that stuff is sharp!!!
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