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Old 01-15-2008, 10:39 AM   #15
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As important as the fittings being under a neutral tension in relation to each other is having tank solidly blocked against tank slosh providing lift while frame is descending and throwing 100's of pounds of force at finding the weak flex spots. Looking at the damaged tank in my '73 the flop 'up' motion was the culprit, the tank top flange was repaired once in antiquity and cracked again in nearly the same place. The only part I wonder about is how much flex to provide when it tries to loft up - zero or near zero. Whatever it gets will be sturdier than the pink fiberglass that was found in the air gap above the tank, foam batten cross pieces or 'L' blocks inserted around the top corners or both...
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Old 01-15-2008, 10:46 AM   #16
More than one rivet loose
 
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This raises an interesting point. I encouage all to fill thier tank to capacity and beyond with water. Up to the point of water left in the toilet bowl. This will test all the seals and joints.
Be sure to gently rock the trailer to burp the tank.
Let it sit for an hour. If you do not loose any water. you are good. If you do and see the leak I suggest you get it fixed especially if you are still in warrenty.
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Old 01-15-2008, 09:29 PM   #17
More than one rivet loose
 
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Update
The tank is back in for the third time. It took three tries to find and fix all the leaks. They insalled a 1/2 plywood shim under the black tank. This keeps the tank from hanging on the toilet flange.
In all three leaks. The seperated tank flange, the seal at the toilet flange and the seal between the toilet halfs.
Wow!
I am back on the road and in Mineral Wells for the night.
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