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Old 05-28-2007, 08:59 PM   #1
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Leaky Dump Valve 1969 21' Globetrotter

I have a small but steady leak from the gasket of my black water dump valve. The outlet is located underneath the tank on the road side. When I take off the retaining cap, I routinely get a small amount (6-8 ozs.) of drain water. It has the coloration of the holding tank chemicals so I assume it is coming from the black tank. Can I replace the gasket on the dump valve and. of so, can anyone help me get started? Thank you, Dave, Gray, Maine.
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Old 05-28-2007, 09:39 PM   #2
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leaky dump valve

our 77 airstream had the same problem 2 years ago. I installed the sewer cap ,left the drain valve open and added about 10 gallons of water.About 3 or 4 times a day I would open and close the dump valve to clean the valve.It works fine know. You might try this first.

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Old 05-28-2007, 09:58 PM   #3
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dump valve rebuild

I have rebuilt the dump valves for both the black and grey water tanks. The Thetford reuild kits were available at my Airstream dealer's service parts counter. It was relatively easy. Both valves had bad seal gaskets on the slide. They seal properly now.

I don't know how similar your valves are but give it a try!
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Old 07-16-2007, 08:58 PM   #4
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Access to Rebuild Dump Valve on '69 Overlader

Has anyone rebuilt the dump valve on a '69 or similar model year AS? I'm looking for instructions on how to access the valve, how to get it apart, repair procedure, and parts source / availability. Point me to an existing thread if its out there.

My trailer's black valve started leaking on my last trip (after 38 total use, 11 years in my possession). I attempted to clean out the "groove" with a bent screw driver (after a exhaustive tank cleaning experience). It appears that the washer is damaged or out of place. After cleaning, I can reduce the flow to a trickle when I push down really hard. This is not workable because on the '69, there is no grey tank, so it flows into my blue tote, where I don't want anything too nasty.

Jim
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Old 07-16-2007, 09:36 PM   #5
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1969 Leaky Black Tank Valve

I could not find clear instructions on removal but have been successful. After I removed all the screws, the fixed piping disconnected from the valve (with a little encouragement). I then removed the cotter pin from the push/pull rod and removed the rod. I was able to then slide the entire unit out in one piece without damaging the existing piping. I believe I will be able to install the new one as well. It was not a difficult process.

Our valve was a Thetford 01447...T1169. Vintage Trailer Supply still stocks this model. Good luck and let me know if I can provide any photos or help with your project.
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Old 07-16-2007, 10:00 PM   #6
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Thanks,

Rear bath? Did you have to remove the tank or is there a simple way to get to the valve to affect repairs?

Jim
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Old 07-22-2007, 05:39 AM   #7
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Sorry Jim...I've been away for a few days. We do have a rear bath on our 21 Ft Globetrotter. I did not have to remove the tank and could reach the valve assembly from underneath the trailer. We have a section of the underbelly below the toilet that can be removed. Hope this helps.
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Old 07-22-2007, 09:28 AM   #8
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1969 Overlander Dump Valve Removal

Thanks,
Based on the information in your post, I dug into it yesterday. My wife called Airstream on Thursday and ordered the value dropped shipped through Weekley RV, a local Airstream dealer here. They provided part 08706, which made me a little nervous, but I proceeded.

I had to remove the aluminum skin from under the bumper and the frame under the tank. That exposed a badly rusted galvanized steel metal box. I started cutting out sections of that to get to the valve. The Styrofoam insulation was soaking wet, so after about an hour, I realized I needed to check the integrity of the tank, that it would be easier to work once the box was removed, and I had to repair the box to complete the repair anyway.

There are two cross members (angle iron) bolted on latterally front and back that hold the box up. Removing them was no problem, however lots of foam insulation on the front side of the box held it up and had to be cut away. Buried in the hardened foam up front was a tube connecting the box to what I believe is a heat exchanger. Once I pulled that tube out, I was able to remove the box.

Once removed, in addition to the soaking Styrofoam that came out with the box, there is lots of hardened spray in foam insulation encasing everything into a solid block. I had to cut, scrape, chip, etc that away to finally get to the value.

The source of water is the connection of the valve to the flange. Potentially the connection of the flange to the tank. The grey water drain connection the hose fitting is loose and also leaks.

The part I took off had the same part number you noted, 01447, the 08706 part has a larger flange seal and offset to accomodate it, but appears as if it will fit and function well.

Today I need to reassemble the valve and other fittings to the tank, scrape and paint the cross member angle iron, purchase some galvanized sheet metal and builders insulation sheets to repair the box, and get some fiberglass wool insulate to tuck where there was spray foam. I will finally mount the box (to hold the tank up), fill the tank and make sure there are no leaks, and I'm ready to go again.

Jim
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Old 07-23-2007, 08:27 AM   #9
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Advice Wanted on 71 Black Water Dump Valve

My black water dump valve has a constant dribble. It sounds like the best way is to access the valve by taking off the banana skin and/or belly pan?

I'm planning a long trip for August and don't want to get into something I can't finish and delay my trip. I need a "blue boy" anyway for the National Parks regs. Will using a blue boy for a back up work until I have more time to fix it?
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Old 07-23-2007, 09:38 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshall
My black water dump valve has a constant dribble. It sounds like the best way is to access the valve by taking off the banana skin and/or belly pan?
On my '69, I removed the sheet metal from the bumper to the frame that forms the bottom of the bumper storage compartment and dropped the belly pan middle section under the tank between the two front to back frame elements that support the tank. I then had to remove the galvanized steel box that surrounds the tank and valve and chip the hardened foam insulation away to remove the valve.


I spent most of Saturday doing that, a lot of work to just get to the valve that needs service.


Jim
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