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Old 05-20-2004, 07:58 PM   #1
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Question Leaking Dump Valve

We just acquired a 62 Globetrotter and among other problems, it has a leaking black water dump valve. It only has the one valve, as grey water exits below the valve out the 3 inch pipe. The valve is the metal type and I have cleared out as much gunk in the blade seat as I can and it still leaks. I believe I'll have to replace the valve, but am not sure best approach as RV says metal valves isn't available anymore and I'll have to create a dump valve setup out of plastic parts. I know there are other posts here, but could someone walk me through the least painful way to get this done. thanks
Dave Lee
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Old 05-20-2004, 08:34 PM   #2
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or you could most likely still buy a rebuild kit for the valve that just includes seals and gaskets.
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Old 05-20-2004, 09:53 PM   #3
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dump valve

This page shows what I did to my 63 Globetrotter. You can see what the slide valve bolts to on the tank. My bolts were very rusty and several broke off which then required drilling and tapping. I did this in 2001 and was able to buy a valve at a local RV parts dealer that fit in place of the old valve.

I was unable to find the gray water fitting that fits below the slide valve so I repaired the crack in it with PVC cement ( it was a PVC fitting) and reused it. It has 4 openings in it. The top connects to the slide valve. The bottom is what extends thru the belly pan to connect your sewer hose to. The other two openings connect to gray water pipes from the kitchen and from the tub/sink.

http://www.nwflorida.net/gt00004.htm
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Old 05-21-2004, 08:18 AM   #4
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Thanks Herb. We are starting back to MS today from El Paso. Will work around this problem until I have a friendly place to work this. Hope I can replace valve and other fittings without having to pull tank. I suppose the logical option for the valve handle is back through the hole in the bumper. Was that tricky lining up? Dave Lee
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Old 05-21-2004, 10:02 AM   #5
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dblee50

Parts for the brass valve have not been available for some35 plus years.

You can horse around with universal parts, but the fix won't usually last very long.

Since that valve can cause much troubles, it is better to replace it.

The brass valve can be cut out of the fiberglass tank, and a new style Thetford fitting can be glassed in place. Then you can install a current type Thetford valve and your problems with the tank will be over for many years.

Andy
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Old 05-21-2004, 02:50 PM   #6
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Question What you're saying

Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
dblee50
Parts for the brass valve have not been available for some35 plus years.
You can horse around with universal parts, but the fix won't usually last very long.
Since that valve can cause much troubles, it is better to replace it.
The brass valve can be cut out of the fiberglass tank, and a new style Thetford fitting can be glassed in place. Then you can install a current type Thetford valve and your problems with the tank will be over for many years.
Andy
Andy,
If I read you right, then what you're saying is, the parts haven't been available since "sometime" in the very late 60's?
That's just a few short years after the last production run..
Question. When Airstream first installed the tank during production, did they put some kind of matting between the pan and under the tank?
Do you know what kind of material was used, assuming they did~
(Could it be spun/fiber glass??)
ciao
53FC
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Old 05-25-2004, 06:27 PM   #7
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could either of you (Andy at inland rv ) or Herb describe in abit more detail the fix for the old brass valve ? It looks like on your webpage ,Herb , that you were able to atttach the new plastic valve to the old brass fitting glassed in the tank and the you attached the brass valve body to that ? so that you could retain the double drains for kitchen and bath ? or did I read it wrong .
And Andy , what do you call the part that glasses into the tank were I to order one , and is there a fitting which is double sided available which would avoid moving one drain pipe around or stacking two fittings together which would stick down too far . I have seen a valterra which is similar but one side is two inch and need to be reduced to work which wouldnt be so bad but I`m wondering how you deal with it . My local rv place has nothing but valterra so its hard to get a mental picture without seeing the fittings but I need to do it soon as its time to put the bathroom back in ! Finally !
Thanks in advance
Chris
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Old 05-25-2004, 07:38 PM   #8
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All holding tanks should be surrounded with fiberglass or styrene.

Additionally, all holding tanks should have heat from the furnace directed direct to the pan. That eliminates the possibility of freeze ups, down to about zero degrees.

The original metal dump valve must be cut off the fiberglass tank.

Then a Thetford "glass on adapter" is fiberglassed to the tank. When that is cured out, you then simply attach a Thetford dump valve to the adapter.
Which valve you use is a function of how creative you may choose to be with the rest of the plumbing piping design.

I have attached a photo of the adapter with one of the valves that can be used.

Andy
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Old 05-26-2004, 06:18 PM   #9
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Thanks`

Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
All holding tanks should be surrounded with fiberglass or styrene.
Additionally, all holding tanks should have heat from the furnace directed direct to the pan. That eliminates the possibility of freeze ups, down to about zero degrees.
The original metal dump valve must be cut off the fiberglass tank.
Then a Thetford "glass on adapter" is fiberglassed to the tank. When that is cured out, you then simply attach a Thetford dump valve to the adapter.
Which valve you use is a function of how creative you may choose to be with the rest of the plumbing piping design.
I have attached a photo of the adapter with one of the valves that can be used.
Andy
Andy~
Thanks for your reply, both for myself and others`!
Last week while we had a "rare" day of sunshine, I was able to get into the rear bumper storage area to begin the general cleaning out of that area~I had on gloves of course..(safety issues) and, felt the material there, but decided not to go poking or pulling too much..This is an area that I'm gonna have to revisit at a later date..I suspect that, like the others, I'm gonna have to do revisit for more work here.
I just wanted to take this time to Thank you and, your wonderful staff..especially for all the help in resolving my parts needs~!~ You have some of the best in the business~!!(You know who I mean~ )

ciao
53FC aka Vern
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Old 06-09-2004, 12:13 PM   #10
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I just bought a seal kit for the dump valve...says "for all thedford plastic dump valves" on the lable. not much else, though. no diagrams or instructions. Anyway, I think my valve is prone to leaks, too, although its hard to tell if its just residual grey water, (no grey tank), or what, but something was dripping fairly steadily when I tested things out at home last week. its really hard to see up in there! I went camping last weekend (imagine that! )...had the blue-boy hooked up, so nothing was visible. When I got over to the dump station after 2 days, my indicator said "1/2 full", and there was certainly plenty of liquid coming out the slinky. So any leak can't be too too bad. But I figured I might as well just replace the seals, and be done with it. As Andy said, then I won't have to worry about it for a long time.

My dump valve looks very much like what Andy posted in the picture. It says "thedford slide-EZ Valve, t-1169" on the tag. hope this kit works
So...any words of wisdom before I tackle this job?
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Old 06-09-2004, 01:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
My dump valve looks very much like what Andy posted in the picture. It says "thedford slide-EZ Valve, t-1169" on the tag. hope this kit works
So...any words of wisdom before I tackle this job?
I "did" the black water valve on the 345 a couple of months back.

THe "slab" of the gate valve was scored pretty badly - the scratches in the
plastic extended to either side of the ring gasket.

Parts were not available locally, so I ended up buying the entire valve from PPL to get the pieces I needed for repair.

You might need more parts than you anticipate right now.

My valve still leaks a bit (verrry slow drip, contained by the cap), but nothing I can't live with..........
especially with the macerator pump I installed -- it doesn't make dumping a pleasure, but it certainly removes most of the unpleasantness and all of the hazard.
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Old 06-13-2004, 08:52 AM   #12
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Chuck,

We have plastic valves on our '76 Argosy TT, and have determined that to stop our leaks, we need to replace the seals. Where did you get your seal kit?

Thanks in advance,

Michelle
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Old 06-13-2004, 09:56 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laserlady
Chuck,

We have plastic valves on our '76 Argosy TT, and have determined that to stop our leaks, we need to replace the seals. Where did you get your seal kit?

Thanks in advance,

Michelle


Most RV supply stores that sell Thetford products should have them. The kit contains all gaskets and seals needed to rebuild a Thetford plastic valve and should cost under $20.

Rebuilding the valve is the easy part. Getting at the valve to take it apart was the hard part, at least in my case.
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Old 06-13-2004, 01:33 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Van
Most RV supply stores that sell Thetford products should have them. The kit contains all gaskets and seals needed to rebuild a Thetford plastic valve and should cost under $20.
Van, thanks for the reply. I've had more trouble than I would have imagined, the nearest store is in Virginia Beach, ~ 45 min away. (Not that far compared to what some of you probably have to endure, but a bit of a hike just to look at merchandise.) As it stands now, the Parts Dept FAXed me some pages from one of their suppliers. It appears the best bet is Thetford P/N 09872, Repair package for Plastic Slide Valves.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Van
Rebuilding the valve is the easy part. Getting at the valve to take it apart was the hard part, at least in my case.
You are right, but we had to remove part of the belly pan since we were leaking water from both holding tanks, and it had been so for so long that the steel L-bracket on the right side had corroded through. We've checked both tanks, and they are fine, so the likely culprits are the seals on the valves, which are badly cracked. The tanks are reinstalled, (hubby sandblasted all the corrosion off and welded in beams and supports for the gray water tank) we just need the seals and then we can get back on the road!
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