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Old 06-14-2004, 01:34 AM   #15
Van
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laserlady
Van, thanks for the reply. I've had more trouble than I would have imagined, the nearest store is in Virginia Beach, ~ 45 min away. (Not that far compared to what some of you probably have to endure, but a bit of a hike just to look at merchandise.) As it stands now, the Parts Dept FAXed me some pages from one of their suppliers. It appears the best bet is Thetford P/N 09872, Repair package for Plastic Slide Valves.

Ack, that is a ways to go. I will dig around for my packaging and see if i can locate the label that came with it and check the parts numbers, but the name of the package you ordered certainly sounds like the one i purchased and used.



Quote:
You are right, but we had to remove part of the belly pan since we were leaking water from both holding tanks, and it had been so for so long that the steel L-bracket on the right side had corroded through. We've checked both tanks, and they are fine, so the likely culprits are the seals on the valves, which are badly cracked. The tanks are reinstalled, (hubby sandblasted all the corrosion off and welded in beams and supports for the gray water tank) we just need the seals and then we can get back on the road!
I too had to remove parts of the belly pan. I say parts as i am discovering the the PO did things in a half assed manner when i came to repairs. Thats ok now i guess as it opens up more areas for me to properly repair.

Just today i rebuilt my black tank dump valve and reinstalled it. Word of caution, make sure that you get the gasket that goes between the valve body and holding tank to valve body mount(looks real similar to the small piece on the right in the pic posted above) seated properly. It is kind of hard to tell if you dont pay close attention to how it was when you take it apart. If not in the proper way it will still leak, even when all mounted to the dump valve securely.

I forgot my digital camera today when i went out to work on it so i didnt get a pic of the finished repair. I have been keeping a pic album on my laptop of the completed repairs i have made. I may try and get a pic of it tomorrow and post it.
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Van
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Old 06-14-2004, 09:14 PM   #16
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Van,

Thanks very much for the reply - I haven't ordered the parts yet, so any confirming info would be appreciated!

I appreciate the advice on the installation too.

Michelle
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Old 06-16-2004, 01:13 AM   #17
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If your valve looks like this, a all plastic Thetford valve, then you were correct in the repair kit you want. "All Plastic Slide-EZ Valve Repair Package", part # 09872

It includes just about everything you need to rebuild the valve, including the gasket for the holding tank mount adapter.


Have fun. hehe
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Old 06-16-2004, 06:13 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Van
If your valve looks like this, a all plastic Thetford valve, then you were correct in the repair kit you want. "All Plastic Slide-EZ Valve Repair Package", part # 09872

It includes just about everything you need to rebuild the valve, including the gasket for the holding tank mount adapter.


Have fun. hehe
Van, that's the one! Thanks!

(We've been flushing the tanks, so no )

Michelle

Update:
We drove over to check out the seal kits and they should work perfectly! I appreciate the help.
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Old 10-11-2005, 05:16 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
The original metal dump valve must be cut off the fiberglass tank.

Then a Thetford "glass on adapter" is fiberglassed to the tank. When that is cured out, you then simply attach a Thetford dump valve to the adapter.

Andy
Can this be done without removing the tank? Has anyone tried? Thanks, Tom
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Old 10-11-2005, 05:48 PM   #20
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63flyingcloud.

Attempting that modification without removing the tank, will probably cause you to invent some new, "bad", word.

Since the fiberglass resin is a liquid, you will have a very tough time applying it upside down and expecting it to stay there.

Removing the tank is not that difficult. With the tank removed the repair job becomes about as simple as you can get.

Plastic shrinks in time. Repairing a 30 40 or older dump valve is not wise. Granted kits are available. But the kits have not shrunk like the valve has. Therefore, you may probably find that you wasted considerable time.

If the old valves only lasted 30 to 40 years or better, you got your moneys worth.

New valves will out perform the originals.

Andy
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Old 10-11-2005, 06:02 PM   #21
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Thanks Andy. My tank is wedged under a closet wall on one side, and the bathroom cabinet on the other, so I was looking for a way to avoid the extrication process and its corresponding "bad" words. Looks like I'm committed to expanding my vocabulary one way or the other!
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Old 10-11-2005, 06:11 PM   #22
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63flying cloud.

The first, nasty, don't want to hear, can't help saying it, four letter word you will use is,.................................... "work".

Sorry, but sometimes you have to take the horse by the head, instead of the tail. Or is it the other way around?

But, in the long run, it will make you happy.

Andy
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Old 10-11-2005, 07:33 PM   #23
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Good or bad?

After reading this, I thought I'd recheck the dump valve on the 1963 Globetrotter we picked up a couple weeks ago. It turns freely, but doesn't push or pull. Based on this thread, it seems that it should be a pull valve, not a twist -- is that correct? Most of the trailer is original, including the brass or bronze dump valve. 63GT
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Old 10-11-2005, 07:52 PM   #24
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The brass valve "pulls".

But, the brass valve has been obsolete for over 40 years.

It's best to remove the tank, and replace the valve with a modern Thetford valve. You will have to do it, sooner or later, as hundreds of owners have done.

You will need to do some fiberglass work, to make the change.

There are "no" parts for the valve you have.


Andy
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Old 10-22-2005, 11:04 PM   #25
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What about the brass pipe?

I am following this thread pretty closely and know that I will need to replace the metal valve on the tank from our 63 Overlander with the glass-in adapter and Thetford valve. What I am unclear about is what to do with the plumbing below the valve. Attached is a shot of the brass black tank outlet with 2 grey-water(?) outlets coming from either side.

Our black tank sits above the floor so we will be reinforcing it (it is not cracked) and doing some cosmetic work on the surface as well.
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Old 10-23-2005, 08:03 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squrlgurl
I am following this thread pretty closely and know that I will need to replace the metal valve on the tank from our 63 Overlander with the glass-in adapter and Thetford valve. What I am unclear about is what to do with the plumbing below the valve. Attached is a shot of the brass black tank outlet with 2 grey-water(?) outlets coming from either side.
That can be replaced with a plastic version. I believe they call it a "collector", if you wanna google "thetford valterra collector"...

or, if you plan on adding grey tanks or reconfiguring the plumbing at all, you might want to reconfigure the whole thing.
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Old 10-23-2005, 11:02 AM   #27
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Thanks Chuck. I "googled" and found a "Double Waste Valve Assembly" by Bladex. If it had another valve on the opposite side of the outlet pipe then I would be set and not have to re-plumb. Hoping to find something with both grey water pipes in place.

-Tracey
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Old 10-23-2005, 12:10 PM   #28
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actually, I think this is the thing I was thinking of; it is what is in my trailer, just beneath the dump valve, with the grey drains entering from the sides. the bayonet end sticks out just below the belly pan, so you can attach the slinky. http://www.dyersonline.com/pc-1741-144-reducing-t.aspx

but I'm sure you can find a way to make those others fit, again, depending on how you want to plumb the grey lines
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