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Old 11-23-2015, 09:24 PM   #29
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Insurance claim! You will never clean up problem without professional help. If this happened in your house you would want it cleaned up properly. Your trailer is no different. Do it right and Good Luck! JMHO Chris
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Old 11-24-2015, 12:10 AM   #30
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Window repair

I recently had to replace the window on the driver's side of my FC27. I learned that you can't buy a part directly from the factory. After calling a couple of local dealers who were so busy they couldn't even fit me in to effect a short-term solution, I had the fortunate idea of working through the dealer from whom I bought the unit, Tampa RV, although they were far from the scene of the accident that necessitated the window repair. They were very responsive. I paid them, they ordered he window and it was drop shipped to me from the factory at my expense. I installed the window. It was not that difficult, although I don't know how complicated the installation would be on your unit. I also agree that this is a matter for your insurance company. Good luck.
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Old 11-24-2015, 07:39 AM   #31
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You may WANT to replace the insulation

Or at least some of it.

I had an issue with an stove in my house. Mice made a home there and peed in the insulation. When the oven was turned on the whole house smelled like rat pee.

As discussed in another thread…pooh will dry up and decompose, eventually.

Urine soaked insulation on a hot day might become unbearable.

So your options seem to be
#1 Call the insurance company
#2 clean it as best you can as soon as you can…wait and see
#3 Bite the bullet, pull the belly, pull the insulation, wash the heck out of it
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Old 11-24-2015, 06:50 PM   #32
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Talked to Airstream today. They said as long as all the water was drained out it should not be a problem because the insulation is waterproof.
The smell subsided and the 40-mile trip along Route 1in Northern California seems to have emptied the lower belly pan out. But as you all noted, the insulation is probably compromised. We've turned off the water spigot on the toilet just in case it was a slow
leak. Our toilet seal is not working, which is why the raw sewage was able to come up through the toilet. We assume it was just a slow leak in the water somewhere.
As for the hookups at the campground, everything was installed properly -- we've been doing this fulltime for 4 years so we've got that down.

Thank you everyone for all the great insight into how to handle this. If I find anything else out I will update you guys.
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Old 11-24-2015, 09:06 PM   #33
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Before you rip apart your trailer consider that the effluent, while certainly unpleasant, isn't radioactive or even particularly toxic ( consider the source). Get the inside dried out, drill some holes in the belly pan and see if you have any liquid left (unlikely as the belly pan isn't watertight, at least on mine). Whatever remains should dry out and, believe it or not, desiccate to a dry powder-like coating.

Until then, well, you will enjoy an olfactory reminder now and then but I am pretty sure that there will be no noticeable odor in a fairly short time.

When you have the time, then maybe drop the belly pan and replace all the insulation and clean up.

My two cents,

Mike

Imho this is the right and accurate common sense answer.


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Old 11-24-2015, 11:44 PM   #34
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The adapters that hold the dump valves to the tanks cracked on both my black and gray tanks. My belly was filling with sewage and gray water. It sure smelled. After the problem was discovered, I tilted the nose up and let the water/sewage run out....There are tiny holes in the corners of my belly pan. I flushed the tanks with water and let it all dry about a week. Then, I cut an access hole and made the valve repairs. By that time, most of the smell had subsided. Today you can stick your nose right up to the pan and can no longer get a foul whiff.
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Old 11-25-2015, 01:54 AM   #35
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What's to stop a prankster from disconnecting the city water hose (doesn't matter if it's turned off or not) then attaching to the black tank flush, and turning the hose on full blast?

A manufacture-installed lock on the black tank flush inlet would be a good idea.
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Old 11-25-2015, 06:39 AM   #36
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What's to stop a prankster from disconnecting the city water hose (doesn't matter if it's turned off or not) then attaching to the black tank flush, and turning the hose on full blast?

A manufacture-installed lock on the black tank flush inlet would be a good idea.
Or a very tired owner? Don't ask.
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:03 AM   #37
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What's to stop a prankster from disconnecting the city water hose (doesn't matter if it's turned off or not) then attaching to the black tank flush, and turning the hose on full blast?

A manufacture-installed lock on the black tank flush inlet would be a good idea.
Not so much for prankster, but for self awareness, I use quick connect fittings on my airstream water system -- but only use the brass metal for the fresh/summer mister water side and the plastic on the black/sewer solution side; so its not possible for me to accidentally hook up (or in this case not easy for a prankster to quickly work his magic) incorrectly.

Ian
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Old 11-25-2015, 10:17 AM   #38
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In a floor flooding event like the original poster described, I'm wondering just what the fiberglass insulation might look like now.

The plywood subfloor sheets throughout my rig are tightly butted up against one another. If wetted, I'm thinking that they would swell enough to form a pretty tight seal. If so, then the water/sewage would mostly find its way down into the floor cavity at plumbing penetrations. That's localized to only a few penetrations at the city water/vanity area, shower and their drains to the tanks. It would then move down to the belly pan and flow enough to find gaps in it. If the sewage solids plug these gaps, then it would spread wider, but would only wet the bottom surface of the fiberglass. So maybe he doesn't have fully soaked fiberglass under his floor?

Just wondering. Anyone out there have a floor flooding event and know what happened to the insulation?
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Old 11-27-2015, 04:45 PM   #39
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Good news: We turned on the furnace last night. No odor whatsoever. Bad news: Our Dometic Air Conditioner/Heat Pump stopped working .... It's always something!!!
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Old 11-27-2015, 05:52 PM   #40
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So odor gone in only 4 days, glad to hear the good news (sorry about the Dometic).

I wonder if that supports the notion that the liquids did not saturate all of your under floor fiberglass, but only smaller localized areas?
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Old 11-27-2015, 07:39 PM   #41
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Good news: We turned on the furnace last night. No odor whatsoever.
Is it possible you've grown used to it? Maybe have a visitor do a sniff test.
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Old 11-27-2015, 10:39 PM   #42
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In actuality, the stink has just moved to another place, it's still there and you're towing it everywhere you go!
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