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Old 07-07-2011, 02:30 PM   #1
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1973 23' Safari
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I am having problems removing flange from black tank

I am trying to remove toilet flange from black tank with no luck. thanks for any advice I just didnt want to force it and break something. It doesnt seem like it wants to unscrew either.
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Old 07-07-2011, 03:42 PM   #2
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I'm having the same problem.
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Old 07-07-2011, 03:50 PM   #3
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I lashed it to a tree and used a 24" chain wrench. It was still a tough go. Not sure what I would do if the tank is plastic instead of fiberglass like mine.
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Old 07-07-2011, 03:53 PM   #4
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It will unscrew counter clockwise. There is a plumbing tool to help with the removal or you can McGiver one by attaching a block of wood to the toilet hold down bolts. I removed mine by placing a large pair of channel lock pliers in the hole and expanding them outward against the inner edge of the flange. It does take considerable force to free up 30 some odd years of p**p and sealant though.
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Old 07-07-2011, 04:11 PM   #5
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I took mine out in little tiny pieces using a hacksaw blade, a pair of pliers and a scratch awl. It was 85% gone when I started.

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Old 07-07-2011, 06:19 PM   #6
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I cut and ground down a piece of 3/8" steel bar stock I had laying around so it fit very snuggly in the 1/4" notches that you'll find on the inside of the flange. They are opposite each other on the inside diameter of the black ring at the top. After tapping it into the notches, I then used a big pipe wrench to grab the steel bar and with a fair amount of force, got the flange to unscrew. It required a heckofalot more force to get it to turn than I expected. If I knew where that piece of steel bar was (that was 2 1/2 years ago), I'd mail it to you.

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Old 07-07-2011, 06:39 PM   #7
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I used a large screw driver and placed it alternating between the two grooves with a hammer.
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Old 07-07-2011, 06:57 PM   #8
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Thanks everyone I dont plan on reusing so I used hammer and chisel and after a few good taps it broke free and unscrewed no prob.
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Old 07-07-2011, 07:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennyg
Thanks everyone I dont plan on reusing so I used hammer and chisel and after a few good taps it broke free and unscrewed no prob.
i dont plan on reusing flange that is! I had planned in reusing black tank but I noticed a small pin hole. Is it worth it to risk sealing hole to reuse tank? when i get everything back together someday i dont want to get bit by the pinhole leaking.
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Old 07-07-2011, 07:33 PM   #10
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I fear I am seeing my future.



same trailer...even have the same orange flange.

(getting ready to do the rear floor repair, myself.)


that tank cover looks kind of beat up.

what are your plans? putting in a grey tank or anything like that?
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Old 07-07-2011, 07:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck
I fear I am seeing my future.



same trailer...even have the same orange flange.

(getting ready to do the rear floor repair, myself.)

that tank cover looks kind of beat up.

what are your plans? putting in a grey tank or anything like that?
Chuck, It's nice to see another 73 safari on here. I think there are so few bc they all rotted and people said to hell with it. I am in the midst of a shell off pj. All wraps and belly pan out, lower interior skins 90% out as of today. I dont have 1 solid outrigger and my frame rails are shot, I might have 2 good crossmembers. But I do plan on adding a gray tank, I just need to figure out where to place it in the new frame. Hopefully shell off within 2 wks. I hope the rear of yours is in better shape than this!
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:19 AM   #12
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Mine isn't that bad; in fact, I was able to do some temporary repairs to it to put off the big job for several years. Only about 6" from the back edge was bad; I was able to cut a piece of plywood and slide it in under the c channel, and attach it to the solid floor by glue/screwing a cleat. I cut notches in the repair piece so it would slip in around the bolts, which were (are still) solidly in place. I did this from under the trailer.
The frame is in good shape. I've had the pan down up to the axles, and there's only a little bit of rot on the bottom edge of one x-member; nothing serious. main frame rails are fine.
I've been putting off the major repair for years, thinking I'd get it done at some point in the late fall or spring, so as not to interfere w/ the camping season, but I've finally come terms with reality, and will be taking off most of this camping season to get it done.

I'm looking into replacing the black tank with a bigger one, under the floor. the stock 13 gallon is just a bit small. I was thinking that weight might be a problem, but it seems that plenty of people put bigger tanks back there, and on trailers with a much longer rear overhang.
My thought is to keep the existing bathroom fixtures, including the tank box and cover, so that none of the fixtures need to be changed...just leave the tank out, and put a 6" riser pipe down through the floor to a ~25 gallon tank.

This is a nose-heavy trailer, too, for anyone else reading, so I don't think there will be a balance issue. In the service manual, there is a chart with all the different model trailers that shows all their specs...the 23 footer has a high tongue weight...higher than the much larger/heavier models. There is room to shift some weight aft without unloading the tongue.
even so, I don't think the end result will be much more weight in the rear, when empty. I doubt an empty 25 gallon box is much heavier than an empty 13 gallon box; and part of this re-hab is going to lose the 40-lb univolt that sits in the back corner, too. I don't plan on driving around much w/ full tanks, either.
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