How do I drop the black tank?

[farmerdave]

Hi all,
My 65 safari has a black tank leak. It's coming from the tank, not the valve. Any advice on how to drop the tank would be helpful.
Thanks,
Dave

[farmerdave]

Anyone know?

[reinergirl]

Is your black tank below the floor? In my 1963 the black tank was above the floor and thus could not be "dropped". You'd have to remove the toilet and access from above

[Aage]

I'm sure someone does, it just seems quiet this weekend on here.

Isn't yours above the floor in the rear of the TT? The toilet seat is set right on it, IIRC.

While you're waiting for other advice, I would empty it and rinse it a few times. Could you post a photo of it? Dying to know if my memory is playing tricks on me, or..?

[farmerdave]

It's under the floor at the rear of the trailer.

[farmerdave]

The toilet is between the floor and the fiberglass "bench".

[Aage]

Well, in the absence of any other answers, here's what I would do:

Look to see if the tank will come out from the top (inside the trailer) or the bottom (outside and under the trailer). The bench might come off, so look for riveted-on trim strips, behind which are seams. Those would typically have an assortment of screws and rivets holding them on.

Remove the trim, and just keep going.

Of course, someone will come along at some point who has done it and give you the exact method of getting at the tank, so if you'd rather, then just hang in there.

How about some photos of the "bench"?

[kevinb]

I did it on my 64, so will probably be similar. The black tank sits in a galvanized box, which is probably rusted out. You need to cut back the belly pan to expose it. Then remove bolts holding the box to the frame. If the toilet has been removed the tank should come right out. Problem is re-installation of the box is a challenge if you don't have access to the frame from above to install new bolts.

[farmerdave]

So the only thing holding the tank up is the pan? That doesn't sound too hard. It will probably prove otherwise, I suspect.

[Globie64]

The only thing holding our (1964) tank in at the moment is the pan, and the toilet flange, since the galvanized box is all but gone (we camp with full hookups and a composting toilet and bypass the tank). I want to replace ours and figured I'd bolt a couple of 1/8" steel straps under it, from side to side and bolted to the frame.

[kevinb]

Originally Posted by farmerdave

So the only thing holding the tank up is the pan? That doesn't sound too hard. It will probably prove otherwise, I suspect.

Not hard but dirty. It just rests in the box, no other attachments. You will also have to cut the vent pipe from above.

[mandolindave]

The shady used car dealer, who I bought it from, used the trailer as an out house.....all winter long.

Anyway, the toilet mechanism was badly rusted. I took it out and rebuilt it, and made an appointment for a restoration company to replace the tank.
The restoration company made a patch in the belly so that I would have access, so if I ever had problems, I would have easy access, so I have that going for me.

While waiting for the repair, I used a porta potty. After the repair was finished, I missed the port potty ( yeah eeewww, I should have worded that more better ) The porta potty was so much more convenient than the built in toilet. I could empty it in a porta john in the middle of a festival, or in my toilet when I got home. I never had to drive around looking for a dump site. I never had to pay $10 to dump. I never had to deal with a dirty hose.

I never stay at campgrounds or have hook ups. If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't have paid for the repair. As for resale value....I have no intention of ever selling the trailer.

[Lance M]

Originally Posted by farmerdave

So the only thing holding the tank up is the pan? That doesn't sound too hard. It will probably prove otherwise, I suspect.

Farmerdave,
The black tank is supported in place by the tank pan. The toilet, toilet flange and vent must be removed/disconnected as well.

Here is a link to pics of a 1966 Safari that I worked on with the same black tank/toilet configuration as you have.

1966 Safari
Good luck!

[KAYAKAMPERS]

I removed our tank from our '66 Overlander. The tank pan was pretty well rusted , but the tank was OK. Disconnecting the tank from the toilet, grey lines to it ( if applied ) and the vent. Once the skin and rusted tank was gone, it came out easily for cleaning and storage while I rebuilt the steel tank pan. Our floor needed work and yours will likely too. Be prepared for a new pan, floor repair and skin replacement. These tend to work hand in hand.

[farmerdave]

Thanks for all the input. Have any of you rebuilt the original toilet?

[Lance M]

Originally Posted by farmerdave

Thanks for all the input. Have any of you rebuilt the original toilet?

Yes I have.
Do you have a Thetford Slide-O-Matic or a Swirl-O-Matic?

[farmerdave]

Originally Posted by Top

Yes I have. Do you have a Thetford Slide-O-Matic or a Swirl-O-Matic?

i believe that I have the slide o matric, but I haven't found any labels on it so far.

[Lance M]

In the link in post #13 above, there are pictures and captions of rebuilding the Thetford Slide-O-Matic toilet. Not really a "how to" type of story, but may give you some insight as to what you are up against. Toilets are very simple. If the basic structure is not cracked, rusted or corroded into dust, they can be rebuilt.

Before and after.

[robwok]

I had to snap the bolts off with vice grips. When I tried to take the nuts off, the bolts would just spin in the plywood. Since my tile had been removed, I can push the bolts back out of the wood, and put in new elevator bolts. I also made my own tank, so I plan on using straps instead of mounting the flange.

Just as another option. I have a 64 with rear bath. Same layout as obove. I had the swirl o matic, but the plastic flange inside was busted. If I had to do it over, I might have paid someone to do a 3d print of the plastic part, but that would be difficult to get it all perfect. Also, even though my trailer has almost no damage (dropped the belly pan and very little rust even) my pot metal toilet had crumbled to dust inside.

I ordered the smallest toilet I could get from Vintage Trailer supply. If I disassemble the toilet, I can get it into the rear cargo area, and then I can reassemble it in there. (just taking the bottom plastic off - it has 4 bolts). I do have to trim a little of the fiberglass in the back, but only in the back. I plan on making a slightly larger seat cover and expect there to be very little evidence there's a new, bigger toilet under there.

I decided to fill my black tank with water to see what would happen. It leaks. Broke at the Thetford glass on flange.

I also changed the shape of the tank. I get more capacity, and by offsetting the left side, I can route a new line on the left side to incorporate gray tanks above my axles. You send the supply and return on the left side of the trailer. Unfortunately, it's right where my original heating vent is that runs from kitchen to bath. I'm going to have to change the heat option, but I did put in a heat pump with strip, so I'm not too concerned. I'm considering other options there.

[farmerdave]

What are you using to make the new tank? Plastic welder or some kind of adhesive? I could make one from stainless, but it would probably be too heavy.