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Old 10-20-2013, 12:01 PM   #15
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Thanks for all the input. Have any of you rebuilt the original toilet?
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Old 10-20-2013, 07:52 PM   #16
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Thanks for all the input. Have any of you rebuilt the original toilet?
Yes I have.
Do you have a Thetford Slide-O-Matic or a Swirl-O-Matic?
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Old 10-20-2013, 11:39 PM   #17
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Yes I have. Do you have a Thetford Slide-O-Matic or a Swirl-O-Matic?
i believe that I have the slide o matric, but I haven't found any labels on it so far.
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:09 AM   #18
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In the link in post #13 above, there are pictures and captions of rebuilding the Thetford Slide-O-Matic toilet. Not really a "how to" type of story, but may give you some insight as to what you are up against. Toilets are very simple. If the basic structure is not cracked, rusted or corroded into dust, they can be rebuilt.

Before and after.
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:49 AM   #19
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I had to snap the bolts off with vice grips. When I tried to take the nuts off, the bolts would just spin in the plywood. Since my tile had been removed, I can push the bolts back out of the wood, and put in new elevator bolts. I also made my own tank, so I plan on using straps instead of mounting the flange.

Just as another option. I have a 64 with rear bath. Same layout as obove. I had the swirl o matic, but the plastic flange inside was busted. If I had to do it over, I might have paid someone to do a 3d print of the plastic part, but that would be difficult to get it all perfect. Also, even though my trailer has almost no damage (dropped the belly pan and very little rust even) my pot metal toilet had crumbled to dust inside.

I ordered the smallest toilet I could get from Vintage Trailer supply. If I disassemble the toilet, I can get it into the rear cargo area, and then I can reassemble it in there. (just taking the bottom plastic off - it has 4 bolts). I do have to trim a little of the fiberglass in the back, but only in the back. I plan on making a slightly larger seat cover and expect there to be very little evidence there's a new, bigger toilet under there.

I decided to fill my black tank with water to see what would happen. It leaks. Broke at the Thetford glass on flange.

I also changed the shape of the tank. I get more capacity, and by offsetting the left side, I can route a new line on the left side to incorporate gray tanks above my axles. You send the supply and return on the left side of the trailer. Unfortunately, it's right where my original heating vent is that runs from kitchen to bath. I'm going to have to change the heat option, but I did put in a heat pump with strip, so I'm not too concerned. I'm considering other options there.
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:38 AM   #20
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What are you using to make the new tank? Plastic welder or some kind of adhesive? I could make one from stainless, but it would probably be too heavy.
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:47 AM   #21
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Not sure, but

I think my black tank failure might have had something to do with my frame rust.
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:53 AM   #22
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New tanks is 1/4" ABS. I tack weld chemically first with Weldon 16. Then, heat weld with a heat weld gun and new ABS 1/8" rod. Final seal coat with MEK disolved ABS regrind painted on with natural bristle brush.

Tough as nails when done. You can't take it apart, and very abrasion resistant.

I'll then wrap the outside of the tank with mylar bubble wrap insulation, but none between the floor of the trailer and top of the tank.

If you're in freezing areas and camp during the winter, would suggest adding a tank heater. I didn't since I'm adding some insulation, and the belly pan adds a little protection, but i'll probably also add antifreeze to the mix.
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Old 10-21-2013, 10:05 AM   #23
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Farmerdave, The black tank is supported in place by the tank pan. The toilet, toilet flange and vent must be removed/disconnected as well. Here is a link to pics of a 1966 Safari that I worked on with the same black tank/toilet configuration as you have. 1966 Safari Good luck!
thanks for the link Lance. I didn't realize how much was there until I looked at it a second time. The first time only the first page of pictures loaded on my iPad. The toilet and tank are the same as mine. Very helpful. Thanks a lot.
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Old 10-21-2013, 11:57 AM   #24
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Just a thought, but you might want to test the tank for leaks, once it's out of the trailer, by filling it with water. Ours seems really fragile, it's 50 years old this month, and I'm planning on replacing it when I pull it to fix the box. This might be one of those things you're better off replacing, rather than going through all the work of reinstalling the old one and THEN having it leak.
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:33 PM   #25
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Here's what I've got so far. Ew.
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:34 PM   #26
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Some kind of tar like seal.
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Old 10-22-2013, 08:30 PM   #27
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thanks for the link Lance. I didn't realize how much was there until I looked at it a second time. The first time only the first page of pictures loaded on my iPad. The toilet and tank are the same as mine. Very helpful. Thanks a lot.
You are very welcome.
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Old 11-01-2013, 02:00 PM   #28
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I'm developing an intense dislike of whatever PO used inch and a quarter sheet metal screws all over the rear belly pan and then smeared all of them with some kind of putty on the heads so a nut driver won't fit. I have to chip it off each head before I can get them out. What a pain in the A.
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