How are the holding tanks 'held' in place ?

[RFP]

Looking under our 2014 23D, I can see that there are two fairly large galvanized sheet metal 'boxes' that I assume are covers over the holding tanks (two 'boxes' covering all three tanks??).

I'm wondering just how all of this is constructed... if the metal boxes (covers?) are removed by removing the bolts into the frame, can the boxes simply be dropped down leaving the tanks in place? Or, do the tanks drop down with the boxes?

I'm not facing any issues, I'm just seeking to understand what's connected to what.

Many thanks,

Rob

[KJRitchie]

The tanks are held in place by the covers. I haven't done it but there are some threads on the this forum showing someone converting to the SeeLevel monitor system and they dropped their tank covers just enough to install the stick on sensors.

I'm not sure what happens to the black and gray vent stacks when you do this. It could be that is all that is holding the tank up.

Kelvin

[dznf0g]

Kelvin is correct. The pans support the tanks. No additional strapping.

[truxpin]

When the galvanized cover is removed the tanks are literally held in place from the plumbing & vent pipes on the top side. Of course, always make sure the tanks are completely empty before removing the cover. The tanks themselves are really pretty light when empty..

[KJRitchie]

I wonder how the vent stacks are supported around the waste tank holes. Is there a flange and the pipes are inserted and glued with PVC glue? I'd hate to crack the connection.

Kelvin

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

I wonder how the vent stacks are supported around the waste tank holes. Is there a flange and the pipes are inserted and glued with PVC glue? I'd hate to crack the connection.

Kelvin

That's why I cut an access hole on the pan for the SeeLevel install. I wasn't willing to risk breaking the connections.

[woodfox45]

What is a SeeLevel monitor system?

[dznf0g]

A tank level system that actually works.....

[RFP]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

A tank level system that actually works.....

Hey, my MicroPulse works ......... TODAY

[perryg114]

Best to cut an access hole and bolt a bigger piece over the hole. On older trailers there is a 100% chance the bolts will break when you try to remove them. Make sure you use short sheet metal drill bits or a depth gauge before drilling holes in the pan. My original tank monitors 1981 work fine.

Perry

[KJRitchie]

Since bringing in a Voodoo doctor my Micropulse seems OK.

Just put in 10 gal of water after 5 1/2 months of storage and gauge is reading around 1/3. Close enough. Hope I didn't jinx myself.

Kelvin

[Jacob D]

Originally Posted by RFP

Looking under our 2014 23D, I can see that there are two fairly large galvanized sheet metal 'boxes' that I assume are covers over the holding tanks (two 'boxes' covering all three tanks??).

I'm wondering just how all of this is constructed... if the metal boxes (covers?) are removed by removing the bolts into the frame, can the boxes simply be dropped down leaving the tanks in place? Or, do the tanks drop down with the boxes?

I'm not facing any issues, I'm just seeking to understand what's connected to what.

Many thanks,

Rob

I personally don't recommend removing the tank support w/o disconnecting the vent pipe. The tank may crack if there is a stress concentration. My 49 year old black tank cracked at the vent connection. Fortunately, I was able to enlarge the hole in the floor enough to patch it with some of that heavy moldable grey tape used to seal metal awnings. That was about 10 years ago and examination via sniffing the area indicates it is still holding. I did the same thing when my fresh water tank sprung a slight leak at the fill pipe connection.

[ijustlee]

I was hoping to hear that there was something more than the pipe fittings holding the tanks in place in the newer models. I got my '73 mid bath trailer in '84 and thankfully filled the black tank with plain water before I used the toilet. It leaked through cracks at each pipe fitting in the tank because there was nothing other than the pipes holding the tank in place. The water in the tank weighs a lot and when say, half full, the sloshing when driving around puts a lot of force at the fittings so of course they broke the tank. I thought that the factory had just missed putting some restraints in my trailer to hold the tank but the shop manual shows nothing to hold the tank from sliding around under the bed. Seems like poor design to me but seems like they are still counting on the pipes to hold the tanks in place?

[truxpin]

Originally Posted by ijustlee

I was hoping to hear that there was something more than the pipe fittings holding the tanks in place in the newer models..... Seems like poor design to me.

The metal tank cover actually holds the tanks in place, it's lined with bolts on all 4 sides and a row of bolts in-between the tanks as well. To isolate the tanks from shifting around, there is (should be) foam paneling in-between the tanks and the pan. While I'm sure the vent pipes and toilet flange weren't designed to support the tanks, due to their light weight, if you need to service the valves or tank plumbing they will remain in place once the tank pan is removed.(provided BOTH tanks are empty)
Of course this is on "newer" Airstreams. Ours is a 2001, does a '73 use a metal "cover" over the tanks or are they exposed?

[16595]

I am about to work on my leaking black tank valve. I thank everyone who has contributed to this and other related threads.

I am about to cut an access panel so I can work on the valves and plumbing. How large a hole should I cut? Maybe there is not a finite answer other than "big enough" to get at things.

What about the supports/bolts between the dump valves? Should my replacement panel attach to a remaining part of this?

I see that a nipper is suggested as a good tool for the cut. Is there clearance for a small power saw with metal cutting blade? I will start investigating it all.

Thanks for your advice!

2005 31' Classic

Dwight