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Old 07-20-2009, 07:36 PM   #1
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
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How about an intentional dent in ABS tank?

I am finally at the point where I am looking at different holding tank solutions for my 1973 31' remodel. I would like to add two 30 gallon tanks right around the area of my rear axle. The frame cavity just behind the axle is completely clear but the one where the rear axle is located is partially obstructed along one edge by the axle itself. I found a source of supply for 30 gallon ABS tanks (at about $143 each by the way) that will almost clear the axle in that cavity. All it needs is a little bit of a dent along one bottom edge to clear the axle completely. So here is the question:

Does it seem feasible that some careful application of heat and pressure would allow me to create such a dent without otherwise damaging the tank? As I recall ABS plastic is routinely vacuum formed where heat would be used to relax the plastic enough to get it to reshape. What do you think?

On another note these tanks are the type with a flat top flange that hangs out about 1" all around the top. Are these flanges strong enough that I can safely hang the tank from them by bolting the flange up to the sub-floor?

Malcolm
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Old 08-16-2009, 07:54 AM   #2
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Malcolm,

I see you never got any responses on this post maybe this bump will get some. I too would like to hear others opinions. Was wondering if you could share the source of the 30 gal tanks that you found. I just discovered that in addition to my wanting to add a grey tank, my black tank will need replacing. Would like to plumb them so that there is one dump outlet.
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Old 08-16-2009, 10:11 AM   #3
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As far as the flange goes it should be strong enough to hold up the tank. I wold space your screws about every 6"- 8" to be sure, and use some big fat course threaded screws about an 1" - 1 1/4 long. Go all the way around the tank and it will rip the floor out before the tank falls off. I did it with my fiberglass black tank in the back of my '68 Worked great. Even with 6 screws I could lift myself off the ground by pulling on it. I think I have a total of 30+ screws holding it in...

As far as the dent goes. I think if you do it carefully it is possible. But be carful, to much heat will weaken the ABS. You may want to get a peace of 6" abs from a hardware store and see how much heat it will take to melt it before it burns it. This way you don't mess up the tank... and you can practice putting a crease in the pipe..
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Old 08-16-2009, 11:11 AM   #4
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There are very hot special heat guns that can control the temperature to 450 F which is about where you should be to heat the ABS up till it reaches its softening point. ABS is a compound that slowly gets soft before it fully melts, so you should be able to get it to the state where it is capable of being bent. Use a wooden stick to do it rather than steel which will cause the material to cool down and be less mailable.
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Old 08-17-2009, 11:28 AM   #5
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Source of tanks, etc.

After shopping around and taking into consideration price, availability and shipping costs I got what I thought was an excellent buy on two of the following tanks from Icon Technologies. The tanks were in stock so I had them in less than one week and the shipping was free. I paid $151 each. The width of the tank is listed at 24.5" which would be too tight to fit between the frame cross members except for the fact that the flange around the top can be trimmed back just a little to get it to fit.

http://www.icontechltd.com/productca...ter-End-Drain-
Holding-Tank-32-Gal-No-Fitting-34p91.htm

I like the idea of experimenting with a piece of abs pipe. I go have heat gun that might do the trick too.

By the way in case anyone is interested the following thread is about how I am intending to get more height in the belly pan area to contain my new tanks which will hang down below the frame rails just a bit.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f444...nks-39420.html

Malcolm
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Old 08-17-2009, 06:51 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium View Post
I am finally at the point where I am looking at different holding tank solutions for my 1973 31' remodel. I would like to add two 30 gallon tanks right around the area of my rear axle. The frame cavity just behind the axle is completely clear but the one where the rear axle is located is partially obstructed along one edge by the axle itself. I found a source of supply for 30 gallon ABS tanks (at about $143 each by the way) that will almost clear the axle in that cavity. All it needs is a little bit of a dent along one bottom edge to clear the axle completely. So here is the question:

Does it seem feasible that some careful application of heat and pressure would allow me to create such a dent without otherwise damaging the tank? As I recall ABS plastic is routinely vacuum formed where heat would be used to relax the plastic enough to get it to reshape. What do you think?

On another note these tanks are the type with a flat top flange that hangs out about 1" all around the top. Are these flanges strong enough that I can safely hang the tank from them by bolting the flange up to the sub-floor?

Malcolm

I would be carefull of screwing through the flange to support the tank . Plastic is notorious for stress cracks at screw holes. Why not run straps from the bottom of the cross members and under the tank similar to the way auto fuel tanks are held up . If you really want to use the flange use a continuous steel plate under the flange and screw through both. Good luck
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Old 08-17-2009, 08:41 PM   #7
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ABS pipe is a lot thicker than the tank,it wont take as much heat to re form the tank go slow. Nice deal with free shipping!
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Old 08-19-2009, 06:56 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by ticki2 View Post
I would be carefull of screwing through the flange to support the tank . Plastic is notorious for stress cracks at screw holes. Why not run straps from the bottom of the cross members and under the tank similar to the way auto fuel tanks are held up . If you really want to use the flange use a continuous steel plate under the flange and screw through both. Good luck
I have been intending to use some sort of strip of metal under the flange to bolt through. I agree that cracks in the plastic should be avoided. I also think that with a metal flange of some sort that I probably do not need as many bolts. I think that the cross members themselves are just a little flexible for my tastes as far as something to attach straps to. If I do decide to add straps I would be inclined to attach the ends of the straps to bolts through the floor. My sub-floor is still entirely exposed on the top side by the way so that is why I am contemplating using bolts rather than screws. I think I will use some elevator bolts. I probably will attach a washer and nut just below the floor and before I mount the tank to keep the bolts in place should I decide later to remove the tank after the real flooring is in place.

Malcolm
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Old 08-19-2009, 06:59 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by bibbs View Post
ABS pipe is a lot thicker than the tank,it wont take as much heat to re form the tank go slow. Nice deal with free shipping!
You have a good point there about the thickness of abs pipe. I wonder if there is anything made out of thinner abs at the big box stores that I can play with?

The free shipping was indeed a great deal. I don't think I mentioned it before but both tanks came in the same box. They are tapered from one end to the other and the two tanks were back to back in opposite directions. My guess is that one tank might very well have shipped in the same size box.

Malcolm
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Old 08-19-2009, 07:43 PM   #10
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Malcolm, maybe take a look at my trailer's thread, tank stuff is fairly recent. I too got the grey from Icon. I used angle and straps to mount them, added a section or two of 2x4 tubing and also cut a couple of the crossmembers out and reversed them so that I'd have the strong side to weld the mounting angle to. My bolts are welded to the angle, so it's easy to drop the tanks later if I need to just by removing the nuts and I haven't got the subfloor tied into the mounts.

cheers,
steve
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Old 08-20-2009, 11:51 PM   #11
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Originally Posted by pbearsailor View Post
Malcolm, maybe take a look at my trailer's thread, tank stuff is fairly recent. I too got the grey from Icon. I used angle and straps to mount them, added a section or two of 2x4 tubing and also cut a couple of the crossmembers out and reversed them so that I'd have the strong side to weld the mounting angle to. My bolts are welded to the angle, so it's easy to drop the tanks later if I need to just by removing the nuts and I haven't got the subfloor tied into the mounts.

cheers,
steve
Steve,

That does look like a good and solid way to mount a tank. I will have to give it some thought. I had not intended changing my cross members or welding in anything new. Unfortunately while I do have a lot of relevant skills for Airstream remodeling welding is one that I do not yet have so I would have to bring in someone to do that. Actually I did do that for fixing the rear cross member which was pretty badly rusted out. I do think that fastening to the floor would work OK but it would be harder to get to the bolts I suppose.

Thanks for the suggestions,

Malcolm
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Old 12-26-2009, 03:18 PM   #12
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1973 31' Sovereign
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The tank link is broken...

The tank link in post number 5 seems to be broken. I will try to correct it here:

Holding Tank : Holding Tanks : RV Holding Tanks : Black Water Tank : Waste Holding Tank : RV Tanks : Black Water Tanks : Gray Water Tank : Grey Water Tank - Icon Technologies Limited

Malcolm
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