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Old 07-31-2007, 01:53 PM   #15
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1983 34' Excella
1967 24' Tradewind
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Rivet Drain Valves

Quote:
Originally Posted by 77airstream
Are the dump valves on a center bath any different than on a rear bath? Where are they located? A slight problem I have is sometime in the past, my guess is, someone thought they needed to yank on the handles to free the valves, so the handles are no longer on the unit. Does anyone have any advice to give?
Sounds like replacement rather than new seals for you. Thetford makes a drain valve lubricant. I use a little regularly. It also improves flushing out.

Best of luck,

Vaughan
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Old 07-31-2007, 02:08 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77airstream
Are the dump valves on a center bath any different than on a rear bath? Where are they located? A slight problem I have is sometime in the past, my guess is, someone thought they needed to yank on the handles to free the valves, so the handles are no longer on the unit. Does anyone have any advice to give?
The dump valves on my center bath are just forward of the streetside wheels. The valves come with just a short , perhaps 3 inch, handle, and extensions are screwed into these so that the ends of the handles are accessible outside the belly pan. You may just find that the extension pieces have come unscrewed and have dropped off. A flashlight down the access holes may reveal the situation. The extension handles were available from Thetford when I last checked.
Nick.
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Old 07-31-2007, 02:39 PM   #17
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WARNING be sure that you have the Black Water Tank completely clean and flush with bleach several times. I was sucessfuly in cleaning my valves out by putting a pail under the outlet pipe then pouring about 4 quarts of water down into the holding tank, and then one quart of pool acid. ONLY ( ACID INTO THE WATER) leave for a couple of days ...or longer and see if the leak is gone You can tell if there is no water in the pail. It also works for the toilet seal.
Never I say NEVER put anything into the toilet like toilet paper no matter what the claim. We use a disposal container If there is some problem move the valve a few times to adjitate the joint Mine took 3 times and is still sealing......Better than the hard way. I had replaced mine and it was a WELL DO I HAVE TO EXPOUND ON IT>

Rae
Canada and Florida 22 ft Argosy
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Old 08-01-2007, 11:18 AM   #18
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deeper into it

Quote:
Originally Posted by nickcrowhurst
The dump valves on my center bath are just forward of the streetside wheels. The valves come with just a short , perhaps 3 inch, handle, and extensions are screwed into these so that the ends of the handles are accessible outside the belly pan. You may just find that the extension pieces have come unscrewed and have dropped off. A flashlight down the access holes may reveal the situation. The extension handles were available from Thetford when I last checked.
Nick.

I wish that they just had dropped off! I talked to my a friend of mine last night, who I had let borrow the trailer last summer (part of the deal to let him borrow it was to fix a "unknown" valve problem). He told me that he took a panel out underneath to see if he could detect what was wrong, and what he came up with was the insides were rotted out. He said that he looked at a few dealers in the Tampa area and nobody had a valve of the size needed. What size is it? I've had several folks tell me that airstream has a "oddball" size valve, but I dont know personally. Is there any way I could buy just the "inside" parts and the handles?
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Old 08-03-2007, 06:01 AM   #19
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The Thetford valves and/or their repair kits are less easily available than some others, but they are high quality, and worth the extra expense, IMHO. If you google "thetford valve rv", you will find many places to buy the valves and/or repair kits, including here:
Save at RV Partscenter - RV Parts and Supply
There are a few variations in the type of valve and repair kit. You mainly need to see if your valves clamp-on to the tanks and waste pipes, or are glued on. By making a large enough access hatch to complete the repair, you can shine a flashlight on the existing valves, and read off the serial numbers embossed on the white plastic. The hardest part for me was cutting the access hole in the belly pan while lying in a field of fire ants. The entire job is nasty, and it's one Airstream job it would be REALLY good to pay someone else to do. (Especially if you aim to complete it in a morning, while full-timing, while your wife is at the store, as I did.)
Nick.
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Old 08-03-2007, 10:06 AM   #20
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1977 31' Sovereign
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickcrowhurst
The Thetford valves and/or their repair kits are less easily available than some others, but they are high quality, and worth the extra expense, IMHO. If you google "thetford valve rv", you will find many places to buy the valves and/or repair kits, including here:
Save at RV Partscenter - RV Parts and Supply
There are a few variations in the type of valve and repair kit. You mainly need to see if your valves clamp-on to the tanks and waste pipes, or are glued on. By making a large enough access hatch to complete the repair, you can shine a flashlight on the existing valves, and read off the serial numbers embossed on the white plastic. The hardest part for me was cutting the access hole in the belly pan while lying in a field of fire ants. The entire job is nasty, and it's one Airstream job it would be REALLY good to pay someone else to do. (Especially if you aim to complete it in a morning, while full-timing, while your wife is at the store, as I did.)
Nick.



Thanks, I'll check it out. I think you are right on paying someone else to do it. I can see that it could be a nasty job!!!
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