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06-20-2011, 07:29 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
1971 27' Overlander
Seattle
, Washington
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 12
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HELP! Tank may be completely broken.
Help, there has been an incredibly bad stench coming from below where we sleep. I emptied out the tank (which was obviously full) but yet the it smells just as bad if not worse directly under our bed. I own a 1971 Airstream Overlander. Our tank seems to be falling down out the back. It smells like there is waste literally seeping down right below where we sleep. Any recommendations? Tank replacement options? Can anyone relate? Thanks,
-Jesse
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06-20-2011, 08:18 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1967 22' Safari
1960 Caravel
Edmonds
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesse_kevon
1971 Airstream Overlander. Our tank seems to be falling down out the back. Thanks,
-Jesse
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Jesse, Can you take pictures of this and post them? You may have bigger issues.
__________________
Lee
1973 F-250 4X4 390
1965 Chevy Suburban 454
AIR 6030
WBCCI 4258
TCT
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06-20-2011, 08:44 PM
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#3
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1 Rivet Member
1971 27' Overlander
Seattle
, Washington
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 12
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Can't figure out how to use the photo uploader, but here is a link to a pic of what's going on with my trailer. http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...6/IMAG0173.jpg
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06-20-2011, 08:57 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1967 22' Safari
1960 Caravel
Edmonds
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,499
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Do you have any more pics? It is a little had to get the big picture. This might help. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f138...tml#post612569.
You might have to drop the rear part of the belly pan to see what is really going on.
__________________
Lee
1973 F-250 4X4 390
1965 Chevy Suburban 454
AIR 6030
WBCCI 4258
TCT
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06-20-2011, 10:22 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1977 31' Excella 500
West Sacramento
, California
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 728
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it looks like your rear frame has rusted out. The tank may be the least of your worries.
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06-20-2011, 10:56 PM
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#6
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1 Rivet Member
1971 27' Overlander
Seattle
, Washington
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 12
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Yeah the rear is rusted out, I am going to use a recycled bedframe to weld on the back to support the rear. It just smells incredibly bad right below our bad (yesterday and today) I thought it was just because the dump was full, but it still smells almost worse than before.
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06-20-2011, 11:59 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1960 28' Ambassador
Vintage Kin Owner
1998 25' Safari
Avonton
, Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,331
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Probably you have a broken fitting and the stuff from the tank has soaked the insulation and spreading the smell. Better open up the belly and pull out the insulation and get out the hose and rinse everything out.
__________________
Doug & Terry
VAC - TAC ON-1
60 Ambassador Int.
1950 Spartan
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06-21-2011, 04:08 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1971 27' Overlander
Central
, Ohio
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,365
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The tank is supported by two pieces of angle iron that span frame to frame. One that you should see the back portion of the photo at the bottom of the tank tray. The other is just rear of where you see the two sections of frame protruding in the belly just rear of the rear axle. The rear one at least has obviously broken - letting the tank and tray sag.
The way it looks, as you release the belly pan the tank and tray will collapse out of the trailer on you. Might be best to support the tank/tray with a 2 by and a couple of jacks - cut the belly out around the tank/tray - then lower it down. Good luck....
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06-21-2011, 06:24 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford,
, Mississippi
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1,564
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Take it all down so you can fix it right. The frame will need work. At the very least take this opportunity to paint POR-15 on all the rusty frame parts. I would use a heavier gauge angle iron then an old bed frame for the supports. A full tank weighs a lot. This is a job you want to fix right and only one time. On a 68 the black tank rests inside a galvanized box and the box rest on the angle iron supports that run across from the frame rails. There are tabs welded on the frame rail to bolt the supports into. Don't know about yours but if the box galvanized box is gone you can get one made at any good sheet metal shop that does HVAC duct work.
__________________
__________________
Bruce & Rachel
__________________
68 Trade Wind
2001 Toyota Tundra
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10-03-2011, 09:38 AM
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#10
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3 Rivet Member
1969 27' Overlander
Albuquerque
, New Mexico
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 168
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Tank replacement question:
I've got a '69 Overlander that may have a waste tank issue, also.
(Seeping from gate valve, and bad odor.)
Which way does the tank come out? Do I remove it from underneath, or do I tear out the bathroom floor?
If I do it underneath, do I just drill out the rivets, remove the sheet metal underbelly, and remove supports, etc? Do I weld in new supports?
What's the best way to flush out the tank before I pull it? I'm not the original owner and I don't want to get contaminated. Is there a chemical flush to use?
Thanks!
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10-03-2011, 09:44 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia
, Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
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I don't know about the replacement, but anything that is in there may be stuff you do not wish to deal with, but it is not nuclear waste. If the tank will hold water long enough to fill it with a strong clorox solution you will be fine. If not, and you are reasonably careful, you will also be fine.
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10-03-2011, 09:51 AM
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#12
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3 Rivet Member
1969 27' Overlander
Albuquerque
, New Mexico
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 168
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Clorox?
So, if I add Clorox to the tank, and take a quick drive around the block a couple times, and go to a RV dump site, I should be able to empty/flush the tank pretty well?
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10-03-2011, 10:03 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia
, Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
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Yes. Don't hesitate to put a gal or so of clorox in it, only $2 or so. Let it sit, if possible for an hour or two, after your drive around to mix it up. Then go dump it.
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10-03-2011, 10:48 AM
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#14
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edglenn
I've got a '69 Overlander that may have a waste tank issue, also.
(Seeping from gate valve, and bad odor.)
Which way does the tank come out? Do I remove it from underneath, or do I tear out the bathroom floor?
If I do it underneath, do I just drill out the rivets, remove the sheet metal underbelly, and remove supports, etc? Do I weld in new supports?
What's the best way to flush out the tank before I pull it? I'm not the original owner and I don't want to get contaminated. Is there a chemical flush to use?
Thanks!
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That black water tank, is removed from underneath.
You must also remove the toilet and the toilet floor flange.
Lastly, the vent pipe connection must also be removed, or cut , so that you can remove the tank.
Andy
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10-03-2011, 06:52 PM
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#15
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3 Rivet Member
1969 27' Overlander
Albuquerque
, New Mexico
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 168
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Tank sensor?
Thannks.
I added the Clorox, drove around, let it sit for a couple of hours, drove to the RV dump, and cleaned out the tank. Seemed to work.
The only problem I noticed is my tank level indicator lights show the tank as completely full.
Either the Clorox bridged the stainless steel sensor probes, or there's "debris" hanging on the sensor. Hopefully, another fill and flush will correct the problem.
The tank additive from WalMart has a sensor cleaner, so I'll try that for the second fill-up.
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10-03-2011, 07:08 PM
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#16
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3 Rivet Member
1969 27' Overlander
Albuquerque
, New Mexico
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 168
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Waste tank removal.
OK. If I have to remove the tank, would it be possible to simply lower the front crank as far as possible and work on the rear, or will it need to be jacked up to raise the rear-end?
You mention the toilet flange: Does the tub and kitchen sink join into this flange at the base of the toilet (It looks like it does, but I'm not sure). If so, do these need to be cut away, or does the toilet flange come loose complete with pipes attached. (HOW is the toilet flange attached?)
Also, the vent: is this the 1.5" black pipe I see that joins between the gate valve and cap, at the rear of the trailer? Where's the "best" place to cut it?
Finally, does the gate valve need to be disconnected from the tank before removal, or do I remove all the sheet metal in the vicinity?
Final question: Can a replacement tank be ordered, or should I build one from plywood and fiberglass?
Thanks in advance!
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