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Old 10-03-2011, 06:52 PM   #15
3 Rivet Member
1969 27' Overlander
Albuquerque , New Mexico
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 168
Tank sensor?

I added the Clorox, drove around, let it sit for a couple of hours, drove to the RV dump, and cleaned out the tank. Seemed to work.
The only problem I noticed is my tank level indicator lights show the tank as completely full.
Either the Clorox bridged the stainless steel sensor probes, or there's "debris" hanging on the sensor. Hopefully, another fill and flush will correct the problem.
The tank additive from WalMart has a sensor cleaner, so I'll try that for the second fill-up.

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Old 10-03-2011, 07:08 PM   #16
3 Rivet Member
1969 27' Overlander
Albuquerque , New Mexico
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 168
Waste tank removal.

OK. If I have to remove the tank, would it be possible to simply lower the front crank as far as possible and work on the rear, or will it need to be jacked up to raise the rear-end?
You mention the toilet flange: Does the tub and kitchen sink join into this flange at the base of the toilet (It looks like it does, but I'm not sure). If so, do these need to be cut away, or does the toilet flange come loose complete with pipes attached. (HOW is the toilet flange attached?)
Also, the vent: is this the 1.5" black pipe I see that joins between the gate valve and cap, at the rear of the trailer? Where's the "best" place to cut it?
Finally, does the gate valve need to be disconnected from the tank before removal, or do I remove all the sheet metal in the vicinity?
Final question: Can a replacement tank be ordered, or should I build one from plywood and fiberglass?
Thanks in advance!

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