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Old 08-15-2010, 01:55 AM   #29
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Although, if you don't want to put your hand through a sharp edged hole into a black water tank to feel around, nobody would blame you...
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Old 08-15-2010, 02:00 AM   #30
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I have been a union sheet metal worker (local # 162) for over 20years. I cut metal on a daily basis, I would recommend that you make these cuts with Midwest offset snips available at Sears. The offset snips allow for the metal to feed out of the cut (curl).You will need reds and greens. Red handled snips are for making left cuts ,Greens are for making right cuts. hope this helps.
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Old 09-01-2010, 02:54 PM   #31
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The cutting of the hole is pretty straightforward. Is there any guideline for locating the hole so it will provide best access to replace the valves ???? What is recommended to close up the open area after the repair is done ???? I guess the "dump" connection will give a basic starting point but so as not to cut any more than necessary it would be nice to have a general guide.

Are both valves the same ??? Is there a repair that will take care of a valve that is simply seeping or is it best to replace ????

Thanks all,
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Old 09-21-2010, 07:51 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polarlyse View Post
The cutting of the hole is pretty straightforward. Is there any guideline for locating the hole so it will provide best access to replace the valves ???? What is recommended to close up the open area after the repair is done ???? I guess the "dump" connection will give a basic starting point but so as not to cut any more than necessary it would be nice to have a general guide.

Are both valves the same ??? Is there a repair that will take care of a valve that is simply seeping or is it best to replace ????

Thanks all,

I was able to look into the drain valve area and the thetford valve part number for my AS was stamped right on the valve. I assume both valves are the same but will check with Inland when I place the order.
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Old 09-27-2010, 05:32 PM   #33
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I was able to look into the drain valve area and the thetford valve part number for my AS was stamped right on the valve. I assume both valves are the same but will check with Inland when I place the order.
Inland thinks both of my valves are the same. Ordered two and will find out next weekend!
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Old 12-21-2010, 05:30 PM   #34
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Time came to fix my own leaking grey water valve. Taking John HD's lead, I decided to make a real access panel so I could get to the dump valve area without a lot of fuss. To make the access panel, I first had to let the tank holding pan down so I could make my cuts. To do this, I remove the pan mounting bolts on the driver side, the front and on the rear of the pan. This let the pan drape down so I could get at it with my jig saw. I chose to cut out a section of the holding tank pan and use that cut out section as an access panel. I used a 1" aluminum channel to straddle the cut seam so I could reattache the access panel. In this pic, the grey valve has been removed.


I pop riveted the aluminum channel to the tank pan body:


Here's a pic with the grey valve back in place. Turned out, the OEM mounting flange which connects the holding tank to the valve fell apart from age. I think it was made of styrene plastic. The replacement is PVC


Here's the access panel reinstalled and everything trimmed and ready to go. The access panel can now be removed by taking out about 17 screws and 2 bolts, exposing all the valve assemblies.

Easy to do repairs there from now on!

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