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Old 10-02-2004, 04:31 PM   #1
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1968 26' Overlander
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Carbondale , Colorado
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Galvenized waste box..how to remove?

HELP!! We are out trying to replace the two angle iron pieces on our 68 Overlander, that support the waste tank box. Is there a way to support the waste tank and styrofoam covering it, while we have a new galvenized waste box made? Our galv. box is rusted where the angle iron supports the edges of the box at the corners. Everything else is rather in good shape.

Everything is still attached in the inside of the trailer, toilet, etc. Do we need to take the toilet off so it doesn't cause the tank to crack??? (So many things to ponder.)

We currently have the trailer "up" with the back belly skin removed and can see the styrofoam is still in place above the galvanized box which is holding up the tank. So...how do we properly support all of the tank while we remove the galvanized box to have one remade?

Also...is there a way to "fix" this problem without redoing the whole box? I've thought about riveting some galvanized flashing at the corners of the box where the angle iron supports hole it up. Any suggestions??? I do want to do this only ONCE! The right way.

By the way...next step is to fix the rear end separation we inherited with our $750 find. Thanks for any help!!!
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Old 10-02-2004, 05:07 PM   #2
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1977 31' Sovereign
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I have a 72 Overlander that I had to replace both metal rails that were supporting the tank. Totally rusted out. I used some scissor jacks from a few old Honda cars I have owned, and simply propped it up. I put a 2 x 6 between them to balance the tank and galv. box.

I took out the toilet because I knew I was going to replace it with a new one.

Don't laugh, but I used angle iron from an old set of bed rails to replace the old supports. They are heavier and thicker, and worked perfectly. Some of the holes even lined up, and they were FREE. My tank box only had a few deteriorated holes in it. I cleaned it up, put POR15 on it (rust inhibitor paint) and then riveted on aluminum angles on the bad corners. Solid as a rock.

My rear end separation repair.... Rear end sep...
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Old 10-02-2004, 11:55 PM   #3
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1968 26' Overlander
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Carbondale , Colorado
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 60
Thanks, Sneakinup!

A great idea...the bedrails! I'll have to remember that for in the future! (We have the angle iron already and cut!)

I appreciate your suggestion. I just still really wonder how we are to remove that galvanized waste box if we need to. I can try the POR 15 on what is there and rivet some metal over those areas for strength. I just really am a bit curious how to remove the box, without disturbing the existing waste tank and styro insulation. The edges of the galv. box right where it meets the metal supports are really in bad shape and rusted through. Although the rest is all intact.

Being the trailer had sat for 10 years unused, I wonder if the tank is okay. We've used the A/S only a couple times this summer. It seemed fine then, but you never know. I figure while we're at it I should make sure everything is OK. (But, it sure doesn't look like it would be fun to remove!!)

Your pictures of the rear end separation are great! My model's a bit different and I have looked up a little info on mine, but I'm always open to suggestions! This is an awesome forum!! Everyone is so helpful!

Thanks, again!
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Old 10-03-2004, 06:19 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fly2havefun
Thanks, Sneakinup!

A great idea...the bedrails! I'll have to remember that for in the future! (We have the angle iron already and cut!)
I can't take credit for thinking of the bed rails. That you will have to give to TCWilliams. He has a 67' Overlander and did the same procedure, as well as reconstructed a new galv. box. I'm sure he will see this thread and chime in with his expertise. If not, PM him and he will glaze you over with all the details you need.

If yours is like mine, you can't remove the box without taking out the tank. The box holds the tank in place. Just take out your toilet, remove the closet flange if it covers the hole in the floor, and disconnect the vent pipe and your dump valve. Sounds easy, right? Not difficult, just time consuming and a tough area to access.
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Old 10-03-2004, 07:58 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sneakinup
...If not, PM him and he will glaze you over with all the details you need.
..
Sneakinup has really covered the high points although I do have excruciating detail if you need it. There is a picture of my new galvanized box in my photo section if you are curious.

I highly recommend you think hard before dropping the black tank - plumbing has to be cut to accomplish the task, and the fun factor is extremely low in reassembly.

Tom
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Old 10-03-2004, 02:31 PM   #6
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1968 26' Overlander
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Carbondale , Colorado
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 60
I believe we will do the POR 15 and add some metal supports to those areas. I guess the adage of "if it ain't broke...don't fix it" might apply here.

I truly believe that we can fix the tank in a way that will be as good, if not superior to what was there. (I hope!)

Besides, it's getting COLD here in Colorado, and we really have to get things "buttoned-up"! I sure hope we get to use this baby more next summer than we did this summer. I have to admit...it's ALMOST as much fun working on it as using it! (I guess I'm just a tomboy at heart!)

Thanks, again!
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Old 10-03-2004, 11:08 PM   #7
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I replace my angle iron and had the box out on my 71 it should not be a problem if the black tank is empty the vent and the toilet should hold it up

Rick
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