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Old 05-15-2011, 11:49 AM   #1
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Fresh Tank to Black Tank Flush (Spray)

Tiring of hooking up a separate hose to the black tank flush (spray) connector when dumping, I procured from my local hardware store a stainless steel braided hose and brass fittings so that I could semi-permanently connect the adjacent fresh water faucet with the black tank flush connector (see photos).

Now when I dump the black tank all I have to do is turn on the onboard pump (having sufficient fresh water on board), connect the slinky, pull the black tank valve and then open the fresh water faucet to spray flush the black tank while dumping.
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Old 05-15-2011, 12:14 PM   #2
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I know there is a factory installed backflow preventer inside already, but I would install another in this line. Don't think I would take a chance on backflow into the fresh water system!

The water line is reduced from 1/2" to 1/4". Do you think you are getting adequate flow/pressure to spray the tank clean?
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Old 05-15-2011, 12:21 PM   #3
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2 things come to mind when I viewed this. First is there enough pressure to run the black rinse properly to do a god job of rinsing the tank?
Next it looks like there could be a chance of fresh water contamination.
Not really sure if either is a valid concern. I'd like to here if you considered those potential problems, and how well does this work for you?
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Old 05-15-2011, 12:23 PM   #4
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A W Warn,
It looks like you beat me to the draw. I'm a slow typer. But we are both thinking the same way.
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Old 05-15-2011, 01:03 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
I know there is a factory installed backflow preventer inside already, but I would install another in this line. Don't think I would take a chance on backflow into the fresh water system!

The water line is reduced from 1/2" to 1/4". Do you think you are getting adequate flow/pressure to spray the tank clean?
I installed this over 6 years ago and did consider the potential of backflow past the preventer. The faucet provides a 2nd backflow preventer and I never open it unless the pump is on providing positive pressure. Additionally, the fresh water is chlorinated.

As to the reduction of the water line; the short distance doesn't seem to allow for any appreciable loss of flow and like the nozzle on a garden hose the flush spray nozzle offers a restriction and turbulence of flow in doing its job. Iíve had no trouble with flushing.
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Old 05-15-2011, 03:25 PM   #6
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Please don't offer me a drink of water. Every time you operate that faucet you are opening a direct link,,,,toilet to fresh water tank.
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Old 05-15-2011, 04:26 PM   #7
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Is there is a back flow preventer installed where I can't see it on mine? When I put outside pressure to the hose fitting I get it running out on disconnecting. That would indicate to me no backflow preventer upstream or it is not working as it would be sqirting out somewhere upstream.
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Old 05-15-2011, 04:45 PM   #8
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Is there is a back flow preventer installed where I can't see it on mine? When I put outside pressure to the hose fitting I get it running out on disconnecting. That would indicate to me no backflow preventer upstream or it is not working as it would be sqirting out somewhere upstream.
Basis the A/S Owners Manual, the following is the plumbing inlet order:

Water hose connector > 1/2" Tubing > Vacuum Breaker > Check Valve > 1/2" Tubing > Spray Head.

The run-out you get on disconnecting is due to the "Vacuum Breaker" allowing the line between the check valve and the inlet to drain so that in cold weather water is not retained in the tubing to freeze and break.
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Old 05-16-2011, 08:36 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by withidl View Post
Basis the A/S Owners Manual, the following is the plumbing inlet order:

Water hose connector > 1/2" Tubing > Vacuum Breaker > Check Valve > 1/2" Tubing > Spray Head.

The run-out you get on disconnecting is due to the "Vacuum Breaker" allowing the line between the check valve and the inlet to drain so that in cold weather water is not retained in the tubing to freeze and break.
Thanks I don't have that detailed OM to show it.
I have thought about doing what you did, especially when the only water available is in a hose without a threaded end. Knowing A/S didn't forget to include a vacuum break will also make me feel better when I hook it up at home. I will take your hookup and add another point to hook in a hose from an outside source, without having to disconnect your built in hose, using a three way valve.
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Old 05-16-2011, 08:41 AM   #10
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our flush fitting is up high on the side of the trailer, above the external water connection. I am thinking in my case it would make more sense to just buy a "Y" fitting and a short length of hose, so I could divert the incoming water from the main supply to either direction, plumbing or spray.
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Old 05-16-2011, 09:35 AM   #11
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Please don't offer me a drink of water. Every time you operate that faucet you are opening a direct link,,,,toilet to fresh water tank.
That is my thought too. And, since the fresh water tank is below the hookup for the black tank flush, guess which way the siphoning goes if there is any leak in the backflow preventer!
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:06 AM   #12
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Convient but not a good idea. Possibility of cross contamination. Not good. There should be a short piece of hose to connect to the black tank flush.
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Old 05-16-2011, 03:14 PM   #13
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Im fecal phobic and this makes me want to scream. Maybe I'm too sensitive. Maybe you cant be careful enough. I like to think my thirdhand AS is uber clean...

EDIT: "Honey I'll clean all the rest of the AS if you do "poop duty" for 2 minutes."
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Old 05-16-2011, 03:55 PM   #14
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I was concerned about the back flow issue as well, so I went to a garden hose quick disconnect. I put the end with the valve on the bulkhead side where the sprayer unit and the other end to the spigit. I can turn off any back wash while the water is still on and then close the faucet and remove the quick disconnect. No screwing the fitting on just push on like an air hose. Can not provide pictures, baby is at base camp right now.
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