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Old 06-30-2012, 04:16 PM   #15

2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
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Originally Posted by Aage View Post

What is the Dawn for, to clean it? Do you use one of those packets that supposedly help the microbes "do their thing", whatever that means?
Helps get the "skid" marks out.

Yep... use the regular liquid "green" AquaChem after every dump/flush.


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"Sticks & stones can break your bones...and hail will dent your Airstream"

So when is this..."old enough to know better" supposed to kick in?
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Old 06-30-2012, 04:33 PM   #16
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2010 27' FB Classic
N/A , Texas
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post

Used it the first time about 4 years ago. Couldn't flush/dump on the pad back then, and I needed to get the black tank clean, used the "geo method". It worked really well, haven't mixed the concoction since, but do still add the Dawn every now and then. I just substituted the Dawn for the laundry soap. SFSG.

I have been known to use olive oil when winterizing and to clean flapper valve at Spring get ready......
Werked great to soften up the toilet seal on our 63 Safari too, just poured it in and let it sit for a couple daze.


Sounds like a couple of good ideas worth trying. I'll bet it does wonders in the gray tank too.

Hmm, I like Olive Oyl.

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Old 06-30-2012, 06:31 PM   #17
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2006 19' Safari SE
Tucson , Arizona
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We use the internal flush system, but I'd keep the Flush King for future use if you need it ... I agree that the internal system lacks robustness and when used as simply a rinse device doesn't do the trick ... but it is handy for filling the tank while doing your dumping routine. This allows you to get maximum water volume in the black tank to carry out solids when you open the valve. When we are on our last dump session before heading home I dump the black water, then the grey (I don't bother doing the "big rinse" if we are simply moving to another campground where we will be using the holding tanks)... if there is no line at the dump station and if the dump station is set up to do it, I use the internal flush, closing the valve and monitoring the amount of water building up in the black tank. I use a clear elbow between the dump valve and the 3" slinky hose. I fill the black tank up and let 'er rip a couple of times. When the water from the black tank runs clear through the clear elbow without any solids or toilet paper, it's done. Gross, I know, but at least I know I have a clean tank. It's amazing how much more "stuff" comes out after the initial draining. Just be careful not to let the black tank overflow or you will have "a worser problem" than a dirty tank.
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Old 06-30-2012, 08:08 PM   #18
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2000 25' Excella
Northern , California
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Since my internal flush system is now kaput, unless I can somehow breathe new life into it, I'm dependent upon my Hydroflush (Flush King-type product). I recently tried a device I've had sitting around for years, something I think many people have, one of those simple wand devices that go down the throat of the toilet to blast the residue from the sides. It's a simple device, essentially about a 30" length of 3/4" PVC pipe with a hose connector on one end, and a cap on the other end, with a hole drilled into the side of the cap to provide a spray jet. I added an inline ball valve, and a quick disconnect fitting. For whatever reason, mine sat in a cupboard for years, and I finally used it the other day. It filled the tank very quickly, allowing quick, multiple flushes, but the bottom of my toilet throat has a deflector to distribute the waste, rather than deposit it straight at the bottom. Frankly, it seems to me that it simply relocates the inevitable mound, but in any event it's there. It closes the throat enough that I was afraid to insert the wand fully into the tank, since I was concerned that the lip of the PVC cap would catch on the edge of the diverter, and I wouldn't be able to extract it. Then I'd have a serious problem, so I didn't insert it all the way. I'm thinking of making another out of 1/2" PVC, in the hopes that it would slide nicely past the diverter in both direction. If that works, it would provide a powerful jet of water that I could rotate around to clean the tank. What to do with the dirty wand? I'm thinking a slightly larger piece of PVC pipe, say 1 1/2", capped, would serve as a holster, as well as a sanitizing chamber where I could pour in a little bleach and water and let it soak.

The next time I get an extended stay, hot weather, full hookups, I'll try to fill my tank completely for a day or two of good soaking with one of those mystic enzyme products, then blast it from both directions to hopefullly dislodge some of the more recalcitrant residue. Who knows? Maybe that will rejuvenate my internal flush system, unless some inline part has failed?

In any event, even with a functioning internal flush, keep the Hydroflush/Flush King product handy for those days when you open the valve and nothing happens, resisting the urge to peer into the discharge pipe to see what's going on.
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Old 06-30-2012, 08:50 PM   #19
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Port Orchard , Washington
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Originally Posted by Kamiak View Post

Frankly, it seems to me that it simply relocates the inevitable mound, but in any event it's there.

If you always make sure to put a few inches of water in the holding tank before you use it after a tank flush, you should not have the mound problem.

Yes, it diminishes the amount of waste the tank can hold, but black tank capacity is usually not the limiting factor in length of stay.


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