dump valve (once again)

[eubank]

Hi, all
I've read through the threads on dump valves. Pretty much decided to replace the original since I can't seem to locate a rebuild kit (rubber gaskets). The problem is that there seem to be a bunch of Thetford valves out there, so it's hard to figure out which one to purchase. Here are some vitals:

67 Airstream, Thetford T-1169 Model 01447

Attached are pictures of the original valve. No prizes for quality; my grip is pretty shaky this morning. (Too much coffee already?)

And here is a picture of what appears to be the most likely candidate from Andy's site:






Anybody got any good ideas?


Lynn

[goransons]

we replaced ours last month on our 69 and our local rv shop had the replacement you show in your first photo and is what we used. After fighting to get the old rusty screws out I picked up some stainless ones so that if I ever have to rebuild it again they should come right out. A bear to get to, but once there it bolted back together really easy. Those tabs I think are in the new design to keep it from flexing due to the lack of metal perhaps?

[Zeppelinium]

Lynn,

Replacing the whole valve is probably the best answer. However, you can repair these and the needed part is readily available. Your particular model, with the metal plate on one side, requires a new metal plate--the gasket is molded into the plate. The Thetford part number is 03827.

The down side of just replacing the plate is that the plastic sliding gate usually has built up scratches across its surface. You can lightly sand it back to smooth, but you can't take off very much or it won't seal. I've sanded all three valves that I've repaired and they've worked fine. If you elect to go this way (repair), make sure the big O-ring that seals the valve into the PVC pipe is good.

BTW, when you order the 03287 kit, it comes with a metal plate (and valve gasket), a gasket for sealing the plate to the valve body, and brass bushings. The brass bushings are used when you convert the valves that have a plastic plate--the bushings prevent the screws from crushing the plastic body. Your valve should already have the bushings, so you don't need them.

Zep

[eubank]

Super duper! My slide valve is pretty beat up, so I think the best solution is replacement. I etalked to Andy about it, and the picture I included in the post is the correct replacement!

Thank you for the responses!

Our vacation is sometime in October, so the countdown has started on getting all this stuff taken care of ...



Lynn

[Cos]

I would also like to replace the Thetford valve on my '73 GT. The new valve pictured also looks like the correct replacement. I would also like to replace the fitting which connects the valve to the tank - can this be removed from the tank without damaging the tank? any sources for this part? Also considering replacing the Tee fitting after the valve - again any source recommendations?

[eubank]

Well, I got ours from Andy at Inland, and I'm sure he could tell you whether the part in the pic is the one for your rig, too. (There are several similar-looking Thetford slide valves, so make sure you do order the right one.)

Now, the fitting that is between the tank proper and the valve is a different story. It's glued/fiberglassed in place, so replacement does not appear to be that straightforward. Check with Andy, though.


Lynn

[Smokin Camel]

Originally Posted by eubank

Hi, all
I've read through the threads on dump valves. Pretty much decided to replace the original since I can't seem to locate a rebuild kit (rubber gaskets). The problem is that there seem to be a bunch of Thetford valves out there, so it's hard to figure out which one to purchase. Here are some vitals:

67 Airstream, Thetford T-1169 Model 01447

Attached are pictures of the original valve. No prizes for quality; my grip is pretty shaky this morning. (Too much coffee already?)

And here is a picture of what appears to be the most likely candidate from Andy's site:






Anybody got any good ideas?


Lynn

If I find the replacement I will lwt you know. I have exactly the same model numbers on mine. I hve tried e-mailing Thetford but the numbers must not mean anything to them I am still trying to talk with them. I will probably just order one from Andy but I am still curious as to why the manufactorer cannot find the replacement based on a model number?

[TomW]

Originally Posted by Smokin Camel

... but I am still curious as to why the manufactorer cannot find the replacement based on a model number?

You and me both.

I ran into a similar situation three years ago when I was rebuilding this exact same valve on my Overlander. Luck was on my side, though, because a former Airstream dealership (they now sell SOBs) sold me a vintage rebuild kit from a box of old stock they had in the back. Since the package was shrink-wrapped, the soft goods were still in good shape.

I wonder if Theford just wants out of the fittings business?

Tom

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Smokin Camel

If I find the replacement I will lwt you know. I have exactly the same model numbers on mine. I hve tried e-mailing Thetford but the numbers must not mean anything to them I am still trying to talk with them. I will probably just order one from Andy but I am still curious as to why the manufactorer cannot find the replacement based on a model number?

The Thetford "model number" is not for the valve, but for the basic body.

It has nothing to do with the configuration of the fittings.

Those numbers were on all the valves.

That through the years has caused considerable confusion.

Thetford has stopped using that single number a few years ago.

Andy

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by TomW

I wonder if Theford just wants out of the fittings business?

Tom

Tom, interesting you should ask that. I bought a Thetford grey tote to add to Bertha's grey capacity. When I got it home, I opened the box, and found the Thetford tote had a Valterra fitting on it...

[Lumatic]

The dump valve on my 71 is also leaking and sticky. I am now using a blue boy to catch the extra stuff that leaks out. No doubt I will need to fix it/ replace it. Obviously the big part of the job will be getting at the valve. I think after all that I should replace rather than repair so I won't have to do it again in my lifetime.

My question is, what is the best strategy to atttack the valve? It looks like through the belly pan and banana wrap?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Cos

I would also like to replace the Thetford valve on my '73 GT. The new valve pictured also looks like the correct replacement. I would also like to replace the fitting which connects the valve to the tank - can this be removed from the tank without damaging the tank? any sources for this part? Also considering replacing the Tee fitting after the valve - again any source recommendations?

That "T" fitting, is called a "collector."

It has not been available for about 30 years.

We developed a way to repair them, even if some of the pieces are missing.

We also have the fittings that connect the collector to the tank.

Andy

[TomW]

Originally Posted by Marshall

... what is the best strategy to atttack the valve? ...

Check out Sneakinup's approach in this thread:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f444...alve-8765.html

Tom

[Smokin Camel]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

The Thetford "model number" is not for the valve, but for the basic body.

It has nothing to do with the configuration of the fittings.

Those numbers were on all the valves.

That through the years has caused considerable confusion.

Thetford has stopped using that single number a few years ago.

Andy

That answers the question. Thanks now I can stop wondering why no one seemed able to figure out what valve model I had You are a wonderful resource for practical and trivial AS info. (I may still obsess about this for a bit!)