Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-31-2004, 11:19 AM   #1
3 Rivet Member
 
1962 19' Globetrotter
2001 31' Excella
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 242
Images: 3
Dump Valve Handle - broke...

The wife was at the trailer this weekend and came home holding the dump valve handle (picture attached). Said she pulled handle to empty the grey water tank, the valve opened, and the handle came off in her hand. You can barely see in the pic, but there are two small holes at the end of the handle and one of them on this peice is broken through.

Now I'm stuck (without the trailer) trying to figure out how to repair this next time I'm at the trailer. She said it looked like it might have been riveted to an extension rod that attached to the valve. Anyone know how this piece attaches to the valve??? Any help on how to fix this would be appreciated.

Thanks!!!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	handle.jpg
Views:	223
Size:	51.7 KB
ID:	6937  
__________________

__________________
Craig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2004, 12:06 PM   #2
Van
4 Rivet Member
 
1977 23' Safari
Hillsboro , Oregon
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 348
Images: 25
You should be able to purchase a replacement extension that fits it at the RV parts store. Doesnt the hand grip just screw off the extension bar? If now, i am sure you can whip something up with the replacement pieces from the RV parts store.
__________________

__________________
Van
2009 F-350 FX4 Crewcab 4x4 6.4l
former '78 Argosy 20' Minuet owner
former '77 23' Safari owner
former 25' Fun Finder X-250BHS SOB owner
current 26' Komfort Trailblazer 262BSLE SOB owner
Van is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2004, 01:58 PM   #3
Retired Moderator
 
john hd's Avatar
 
1992 29' Excella
madison , Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,644
Images: 40
craig

it is just held in place by a pop rivet, the extention is an aluminum tube.

should be able to rerivit on, unless the end is gone. can't tell in the photo for sure.

if it is broken just cut off and redrill. a stainless cotter key would work well too.

the fun part is getting to it, hopefully there is an access hole aready on your belly pan.

if not, you will need to make one!

john
__________________
you call them ferrets, i call them weasels.
john hd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2004, 04:17 PM   #4
3 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 113
Mine did the same thing a couple of years ago. I drilled a new hole and put a nail in it and bent it so it wouldn't come out as a temporary repair. I haven't had any more trouble with it so the temporary repair may be a permanent one.
Luckily I was able to repair mine outside the belly pan.
Wayne
__________________
wayner1239 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2008, 08:37 PM   #5
Rivet Master
Commercial Member
 
Dan@LED4RV's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Denton , North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 695
The handle

Hey Craig
I'm sure after almost 4 years you have your dump valve repaired by now. I thought since I ran across this, others would also, so I decided add to the thread to let people know this handle is still available.

Click here to see the Thedford T- handle.
__________________
Dan@LED4RV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2011, 06:21 PM   #6
2 Rivet Member
 
Tennille , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan@LED4RV View Post
Hey Craig
I'm sure after almost 4 years you have your dump valve repaired by now. I thought since I ran across this, others would also, so I decided add to the thread to let people know this handle is still available.

Click here to see the Thedford T- handle.
Thanks for posting that, ours broke today. Problem is, it was pushed in when it broke. Am I going to be able to be able to attach the handle... without a huge headache?
__________________
Capt Quirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2011, 06:45 PM   #7
Well Preserved

 
1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 20,193
Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Quirk View Post
Thanks for posting that, ours broke today. Problem is, it was pushed in when it broke. Am I going to be able to be able to attach the handle... without a huge headache?
If the handle broke out at the end, all you would have to do is unthread the old handle part, and either thread on the new one, or a long-ish bolt that will fit the threads (I THINK it's 1/4"x20) so you can pull it out enough to put the new handle on.
__________________
overlander63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2011, 07:21 PM   #8
Rivet Master
 
Wingeezer's Avatar
 
2005 30' Classic
Burlington , Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,709
When we bought our trailer used, the first time I went to dump the black tank I found that the handle - which was sort of a dog leg affair - had been broken and the previous owner tried to do a repair which worked - but only just - it was all wobbly and becasue of the dog leg you had to use two hands to pull the valve open.

The original was made from bent alum. tube with a threaded end and screw in plastic tee handle.

I couldn't do much to fix it so i ordered a new one thru an Airstream dealer.

When it arrived many weeks later, the angles and dimensions were all wrong - woldn't fit at all!

So in the end I made up my own bent pull rod with a piece of steel rod and suitable threaded fitting welded on the end to accept the original handle


Much stronger and works great! Necessity is the mother of invention!


Brian.
__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell

2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
Wingeezer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2011, 08:45 PM   #9
2 Rivet Member
 
Tennille , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63 View Post
If the handle broke out at the end, all you would have to do is unthread the old handle part, and either thread on the new one, or a long-ish bolt that will fit the threads (I THINK it's 1/4"x20) so you can pull it out enough to put the new handle on.
Because I didn't feel like wallowing in leaked sewage and mud, I didn't get too good a look at the place it broke off. But from what I could see, there is the T handle that threads, a tube that is about 10" long, and then the piece that attaches to, which looked pretty flush. It almost looked like there was a hole and pin that attach the tube to the rod that is flush. Can anybody confirm that description?
__________________
Capt Quirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2011, 09:18 PM   #10
Well Preserved

 
1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 20,193
Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Quirk View Post
Because I didn't feel like wallowing in leaked sewage and mud, I didn't get too good a look at the place it broke off. But from what I could see, there is the T handle that threads, a tube that is about 10" long, and then the piece that attaches to, which looked pretty flush. It almost looked like there was a hole and pin that attach the tube to the rod that is flush. Can anybody confirm that description?
What you should have, from handle to valve, is:
1-handle
2-threaded rod, about 1.5" long
3-lock nut between handle and
4-aluminum tube
5-aluminum mount, riveted to belly pan wrap
6-hole in valve end of aluminum tube, large enough for a
7-1/8" aluminum rivet (aka #45)
8-shaft on dump valve

On some models, the tube has two 45 degree bends to clear the wheelwell.
__________________
overlander63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2011, 10:27 PM   #11
2 Rivet Member
 
Tennille , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63 View Post
7-1/8" aluminum rivet (aka #45)
8-shaft on dump valve
This is where the problem lies. It almost looked like the tube broke at the rivet hole. Am I going to be able to get enough of a grip to pull the shaft out to repair?
__________________
Capt Quirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2011, 08:46 AM   #12
2 Rivet Member
 
Tennille , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 31
I ordered a valtara extension handle, paid for next day shipping, and discovered it wouldn't work. There was a threaded stud that the tube screwed onto. It broke off too short to attach the new tube. I was able to unscrew the T-handle from the extension tube, spin the tube around, and just thread it on. It will work for now, but I really need to finish the cabin... fast!
__________________

__________________
Capt Quirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Leaking Dump Valve dblee50 Waste Systems, Tanks & Totes 34 11-24-2007 06:28 AM
Dump Valve Sneakinup Waste Systems, Tanks & Totes 27 05-23-2005 03:31 PM
Dump Valve Leak David Hall Waste Systems, Tanks & Totes 8 02-17-2004 06:26 PM
Repacing blackwater dump valve Rick Alston Waste Systems, Tanks & Totes 3 02-03-2004 04:20 PM
63 Safari Dump Valve Questions srgntpepper Waste Systems, Tanks & Totes 1 09-10-2003 07:40 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:48 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.