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Old 09-07-2004, 03:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Alston
To remove the useless valve, I had to cut off the four corner screws of the valve because they were totally rusted; and that left me with four rusted posts that go into the fixed plastic holder that is attached to the BW tank. I have tried unsuccessfully to unscrew them with a vise grips and they don't budge.
Use a soldering iron and apply some heat to the screw shaft. Just enough to soften the plastic that they are held in. This may require you to drill out the holes to make them round and use stainless screws and nuts/washers to put it all back together, but at least you will not need to cut the valve off the tank. BE careful. the stick irons get very hot and could cause you to slag the plastic. I would warm it form both sides if possible and try to push it far enough out to get a pair of vice grip on it. If you do slag the valve flange you were going to have to cut it off anyhow, right?

If you cut it off, get as close to the valve as possible. This will leave you more of a flange to solvent weld, or use a rubber joiner on later.
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Old 05-22-2005, 11:02 AM   #16
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New post old thread.

I rebuilt my 01447 valve with a gasket repair kit from Thetford # 09872. Still leaks. When I did this I did not take the two half of the gate apart. Rather I pushed the O Ring into the space from the bottom. Four sleeves for the flange bolt seem to hold the two parts of the gate together and are not removible. Am I missing something here? The plastic slide seems worn in the leading edge and I suspect it's history. Does anyone know if there is a replacement for the gate. I found several online at Dyer but are they standard to the pieces above and below?.
http://www.dyersonline.com/c-143-valves.aspx

Need to go camping this weekend.
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Old 05-22-2005, 01:23 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Over59
New post old thread.

I rebuilt my 01447 valve with a gasket repair kit from Thetford # 09872. Still leaks. When I did this I did not take the two half of the gate apart. Rather I pushed the O Ring into the space from the bottom. Four sleeves for the flange bolt seem to hold the two parts of the gate together and are not removible. Am I missing something here? The plastic slide seems worn in the leading edge and I suspect it's history. Does anyone know if there is a replacement for the gate. I found several online at Dyer but are they standard to the pieces above and below?.
http://www.dyersonline.com/c-143-valves.aspx

Need to go camping this weekend.
You can contact Thetford directly as well.

I contacted Thetford, located 40 miles from me in Ann Arbor, and I was told that not only are they still made but the MSRP for the entire valve was under $30. You can try calling Thetford and giving them the model number of your dump valve. They will be able to tell you if you can buy just the blade or not. My blades were shot as well. Instead of tearing everything out and redoing the plumbing, I replaced everything on the inside, including the blade.
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Old 05-22-2005, 02:13 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pattersontoo
You can contact Thetford directly as well...I contacted Thetford,...
Lou,

Do you still have the phone number? While I did not personally telephone Thetford, I stood there while the whitebox RV dealership talked to their "service" department on the hotline when I needed parts that I ultimately had to locate & buy out of another dealer's NOS (see my last post above).

In spite of Thetford's wonderful reputation for quality, I was disheartened when the hotline seemed staffed by goobs.

Thanks,
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Old 05-22-2005, 02:47 PM   #19
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My grey tank valve has just stopped closing all the way so that I can't lock the handle down anymore. Since only grey water has been in there, I think it's probaby a folded seal. Until I fread this thread, I was going to have an RV place replace it, but now I think I'll try to fix first. Thanks for the info.
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Old 05-22-2005, 05:26 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pattersontoo
You can contact Thetford directly as well.

I contacted Thetford, located 40 miles from me in Ann Arbor, and I was told that not only are they still made but the MSRP for the entire valve was under $30. You can try calling Thetford and giving them the model number of your dump valve. They will be able to tell you if you can buy just the blade or not. My blades were shot as well. Instead of tearing everything out and redoing the plumbing, I replaced everything on the inside, including the blade.
You are telling me that the part that the blade is in comes apart? How do you deal with the brass sleaves for the bolts that hold it to the flange? I took all the little screws out and could not pry it apart without the risk for damage.

I'll call Thetford tomorrow morning. 219 294-6491. Very nice woman last time. I got the impression she has been there awhile and didn't even have to look stuff up.

Thanks
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Old 05-22-2005, 05:41 PM   #21
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Over,

Your brass valve must be VERY different than the ones that were used in the 70's. The 70's used a multiple piece plastic affair that had 2 halves, as well as a blade. This is all held together with a seal kit and a bunch of screws. I have never had the opportunity to see one of the brass ones apart but I would bet they can be serviced.
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Old 05-22-2005, 05:52 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thenewkid64
Over,

Your brass valve must be VERY different than the ones that were used in the 70's. The 70's used a multiple piece plastic affair that had 2 halves, as well as a blade. This is all held together with a seal kit and a bunch of screws. I have never had the opportunity to see one of the brass ones apart but I would bet they can be serviced.
Only the holes for the flange bolts have a ?brass? insert which holds it together.
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Old 05-22-2005, 06:52 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Over59
Only the holes for the flange bolts have a ?brass? insert which holds it together.
In my case, Yes. There were several other SS screws to be removed, but the brass grommets had to be drilled out to disassemble the valve.

That in itself was no big deal, but forming the new grommets, which came with the rebuild kit, was. I modified an old die & mandrel used when making new tent tie-down grommets for the task.

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Old 05-22-2005, 07:07 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Over59
You are telling me that the part that the blade is in comes apart? How do you deal with the brass sleaves for the bolts that hold it to the flange? I took all the little screws out and could not pry it apart without the risk for damage.

I'll call Thetford tomorrow morning. 219 294-6491. Very nice woman last time. I got the impression she has been there awhile and didn't even have to look stuff up.

Thanks
Mine had no brass sleeves in them. It seems like yours may be stuck from "material" being deposited into the nooks and crannies. YUCK! I flushed my tank out with a good mixture of bleach and water before I attempted to remove it. That made it much more bearable.
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Old 05-23-2005, 07:47 AM   #25
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Old 05-23-2005, 08:14 AM   #26
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I need to add a question to this thread

Im looking at my new dump valve sitting here on my desk. The original one has no handle. Looks easy slap in a new one 4 screws....I can get to the 2 upper screws the bottom ones are a different story. Started to pull back the belly pan underneath the dump valve. Now we come to the galvanized box. I could almost get to the screws from the bumper area but on the left the grey water pipe is in the way. So even if I was able to remove the 4 screws It looks like I would have to cut the grey pipe somewhere to get the whole thing out.
To make matters worse the po lived in this unit for 10 years and used the head everyday. So I tried to hose the tank out but since I cant fill it and dump it, its disgusting. When I got back from camping this weekend there was you know what all over the inside of the bumper and there were a massive amount of maggots in with it. Besides the fact that it was a huge bummer to have to walk to the outhouse to use the restroom in the middle of the night. Or in the day for that matter.
Anyways you think I can handle this or should I throw in the towel and pay someone to replace it? Are there any tricks to gaining access to the bottom of the valve? any tricks to replace the valve?
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Old 05-23-2005, 08:16 AM   #27
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After being on hold for 15 min I found that the number 01447 doesn't help. It's the plate number and doesn't id the gate. Nice lady is sending pictures so maybe I'll be able to id it. Otherwise a new gate and collector will work????
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Old 05-23-2005, 03:31 PM   #28
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Ok. After several attempts they faxed a sheet with pictures of flat gate valves and the "new" part numbers. Right there was the "obsolete stainless steel basic valve". Number part number for the gate which fits into the collector without a handle is 33399 and costs $47 shipped. Requires extension handle. With handle it is 33398.
Should have it by Friday am.
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