Broken Gray Water T-Handle

[DaveP]

I just replaced a valve on mine. Not a big deal. Just smelly...

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by Protagonist

If it was me (but it's not me, so take this for what it's worth, namely 2¢) I'd go ahead and replace the gray gate valve with the broken tab next time you empty the tank, since you already have the spare to use and can choose when you do the replacement.

There's no point waiting to install the spare at a time not of your own choosing when the valve fails, since that will likely be when the tank is full and the job is messier.

I totally agree. My biggest problem right now is time, other projects in the works. The storage lot owners won't allow any exterior repair work on their lot, so I can't do it there. My HOA limits me to 24 hours parking (I already got 2 nasty-grams). I'll have to do it street side in front of the house (tanks will tilt away from the drain, I think). The weather is cooler now (no shade there), the tanks are empty (I'll do both) and after the upcoming fishing trip and the last 2 rooms to be painted, I'll get right on it.

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by Lumatic

It's not rocket science. If I can do it you can.

Hi Lumatic, not sure if that was directed at me or the OP. I know I can do it, not a big deal. I wasn't sure about the OP, however, or if they were at a campground. Some of them can get testy if you work on your equipment. I also didn't know what tools they had, it looked like it could be more difficult because it was older equipment.

[Rich W]

I replaced both black and gray slide valves today. The black valve went back on just like the old one, nothing special. The gray one, however, doesn't quite cinch up like the old one. I mean, when the bolts are tightened, the flanges on each side still have about a 1/4" of space between them and the valve.

The valve slides easy enough. I can tighten the bolts more, but then it starts to warp the valve and makes it difficult to slide. I think it's OK, but I didn't have access to any water to see if it will leak.

Q1. Is the small amount of space normal, is this just the new gaskets?
Q2. Is there a trick to getting more space between the pipes? I had to pretty much force the PVC pipes apart in order to swap out both valves.

[DaveP]

Do not over-tighten the four screws holding the valve in place. If it starts to warp the valve housing, stop tightening. The gasket does all the work and just needs to be slightly compressed.

I just had to replace a black tank valve that was very hard to open/close. Turns out, the previous owner had over-tightened those screws and broke the housing. Instead of replacing it, they just gupped it up with clear silicon, so it always operated hard because the broken housing rubbed on the blade.

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by DaveP

Do not over-tighten the four screws holding the valve in place. If it starts to warp the valve housing, stop tightening. The gasket does all the work and just needs to be slightly compressed.

I just had to replace a black tank valve that was very hard to open/close. Turns out, the previous owner had over-tightened those screws and broke the housing. Instead of replacing it, they just gupped it up with clear silicon, so it always operated hard because the broken housing rubbed on the blade.

I'm going out to the storage lot today with some water to see if it leaks. The T handle slides easily and the flanges are flat, not bent. They just don't sit flat against the slide's housing like the old one did.

The pipes have almost no movement, it was difficult to get the slide in there. Is it normal for the pipes to be that way? I don't see any way of getting space in there except by forcing the pipes apart and pushing the slide into it. My concern is that the gasket may be buckled. I guess when I put the water in the tank, it will tell me.

[Rich W]

Well, the flanges need to be flush with the slide valves. Both leaked like a sieve. I took them both out and the gray valve gaskets were creased from being in there incorrectly. The black valve gaskets were nearly OK. One side was good, the other had a small crease, enough to allow it to drip.

I put the gray one back in there first. I tried putting the gaskets on the pipes, then sliding the valve in; no good. I put the gaskets back in the valve and after 10 or 15 attempts I was able to pull the pipes far enough apart to get the valve and gaskets in there properly. The flanges were flush against the valve. I tightened the bolts and tested with water; no drips.

I took out the black valve. The pipes on this were VERY tight, almost no room between them. On this one, after about 15 or 20 attempts I was able to put the gaskets on the pipes then slide the valve in. It took a lot of effort to get the pipe ends far enough apart to insert the valve. After several attempts doing it this way, the valve went in and the gaskets didn't get pinched or folded. I had to rotate the valve around the pipes several times before I got the gaskets to completely seat. I put the bolts in, flanges seated against the valve. I tested with water and success, no drips.

If there was even a half inch of movement in the pipes this would have been much easier. I'm glad it's done. I'm going to be REAL careful when I pull these valves in the future, like they're made of glass. I don't want to have to do this again.

[DaveP]

Glad you were able to get it.

Mine was not that tight, but we may have different configurations even though the years are similar. On mine, I took out the pipe assembly that went to both tanks (gray and black). The black tank valve was glued to the pipe assembly, so I just went to Home Depot and got the parts to make a new assembly. I did leave some extra spacing in the pipe leading to the gray tank as it just used a rubber sleeve with band tighteners to join the pipes.

[Rich W]

All of my connections were cemented. I thought about breaking them apart but I thought I would make things worse. I opted to wrestle with it for an hour and I was rewarded.

Thanks for your input, encouragement is always helpful.