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Old 06-26-2007, 06:13 PM   #1
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Blackwater tank repair

I have a 65 Ambassador that I have replaced the floor in. When I removed the holding tank I noticed some cracks around the toilet flang in the tank. The rest of the tank and the valve are in pretty good condition for being 42 years old. It is a plastic tank. Has anyone tried to patch or fix these?
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Old 06-26-2007, 06:47 PM   #2
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We have the technology ... better ... stronger ... faster

I successfully patched a later model Airstream holding tank. Details are at my web site.

Tom
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Old 06-27-2007, 07:20 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbrom
I have a 65 Ambassador that I have replaced the floor in. When I removed the holding tank I noticed some cracks around the toilet flang in the tank. The rest of the tank and the valve are in pretty good condition for being 42 years old. It is a plastic tank. Has anyone tried to patch or fix these?
Patching that tank, will not last.

The material used to make that tank, turns brittle in time.

We have fiberglass replacements.

Andy
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Old 06-27-2007, 07:40 PM   #4
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Tank welding

Hello, I had a gentleman weld my tank and it has held so far. The guy at the plastics company said the rod must be the same material as the tank in order to hold. It was alot cheaper than a new tank but when I get some spare change I will drop the $425+ w/Andy while I can still get one.
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Old 06-28-2007, 09:43 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW
I successfully patched a later model Airstream holding tank. Details are at my web site.

Tom
Tom my crack is almost identical to yours. How long has your tank held up? My foam underneath is saturated. Any thing you tried with this issue?
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Old 06-28-2007, 09:47 AM   #6
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Tom my crack is almost identical to yours.
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Old 06-28-2007, 04:47 PM   #7
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I thought no one had a crack like mine

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Originally Posted by tbrom
... How long has your tank held up? My foam underneath is saturated. Any thing you tried with this issue?
Three years, ~9000 miles, and counting.

My foam was too saturated to use, and was replaced with carefully cut pieces of sheet Styrofoam. Details on the process are also at my web site.

FWIW, I checked before starting the tank repair, and detected no brittleness; The tank was quite accommodating to the small amount of machining necessary during the repair.

Tom
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Old 07-02-2007, 08:58 PM   #8
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Tom,
Did you plug the vent holes,etc.,,, when using the hair dryer to reform your tank? I keep having my elevator bolts pop off. My tank doesn't seem too brittle. It has only cracked around the flang and it isn't as bad as yours looked to be.
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Old 07-03-2007, 05:20 AM   #9
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Slow and steady

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Originally Posted by tbrom
Did you plug the vent holes,etc.,,, when using the hair dryer to reform your tank? I keep having my elevator bolts pop off. ...
I did not plug the vent holes reasoning that the hair dryer's hot air needed to flow through the tank. Plugging the holes would have precluded circulation.

Hot glueing the elevator bolts to the tank worked well for me. You might be tightening your elevator bolts too much or at an angle. In talking to member kevo the other day about his similar project, I recounted tightening the bolts' nuts ever so slightly (<= 1/8 turn) over the course of the day.

Removing the elevator bolts after the repair was completed was easy. After the jig was removed, the bolts would pop free when pushed sideways by hand.

Tom
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Old 07-11-2007, 05:14 PM   #10
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Even Worse

I can't begin to thank Tom enough for his help so far, and I have not even started my tank repair yet. Tom has said that the cracks in my tank are worse than the ones he had, and I am actually wondering if mine are even repairable. But I am going to try. I am going to have to replace the drain inlet, which means cutting the old one out and glueing a new one in, that said, I need to buy a toilet first and have all the pieces in hand before I start cutting on the tank. I am happy to share some pics of my tank if your interested.

That said, anyone know of a new toilet that will mount underneath in the original location ? ( there is molded fiberglass inside that is over the top of the toilet, so everything is hidden underneath )

BTW, Tom, I picked up a 3" female NPT PVC flange from HD, It looks like i might have to do some machine work to the outside of it, but I should be able to turn it enough to glue it in.
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Old 07-14-2007, 03:25 PM   #11
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I can't begin to thank Tom enough for his help so far, and I have not even started my tank repair yet. Tom has said that the cracks in my tank are worse than the ones he had, and I am actually wondering if mine are even repairable. But I am going to try. I am going to have to replace the drain inlet, which means cutting the old one out and glueing a new one in, that said, I need to buy a toilet first and have all the pieces in hand before I start cutting on the tank. I am happy to share some pics of my tank if your interested.

That said, anyone know of a new toilet that will mount underneath in the original location ? ( there is molded fiberglass inside that is over the top of the toilet, so everything is hidden underneath )

BTW, Tom, I picked up a 3" female NPT PVC flange from HD, It looks like i might have to do some machine work to the outside of it, but I should be able to turn it enough to glue it in.

Keep me posted. I have been searching for abs weld. The only thing I have found is PVC. I also noticed how you carefully worded your post unlike my post!
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Old 07-14-2007, 03:41 PM   #12
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Best to replace the tank. My old one was repaired then began cracking again. I am happy with the new FIBERGLASS tank I got from Inland RV. It was a lot of work reolacing it and I do not want to do it again.

Neil...and Lynn
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Old 07-14-2007, 04:14 PM   #13
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Here's what I used

Quote:
Originally Posted by tbrom
... I have been searching for abs weld. ...
Oatley black ABS cement #30892. Almost 4 years & 9000 miles and counting.

Tom
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Old 07-14-2007, 06:11 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
This is a great site for morning coffee and entertainment.
I was having the same thought.
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