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Old 10-26-2016, 10:03 PM   #41
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2004 30' Classic
San Antonio , Texas
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 95
After cleaning out the black water. I add about 2 gallons of water with an enzyme. Are you using a tp that breaks down in water. You can test by putting a piece in a glass of water and stir. Some tp is made with chlorine and will destroy the black water tank enzymes. Some people don't close the valve. Good luck.
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Old 10-27-2016, 11:50 AM   #42
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2008 27' Safari FB SE
Long Beach , California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
One thing I have done for years and it would help in this situation. When dumping I open the black valve and let it flow till near empty. While the black valve is still open lift the hose to above the banana strip and open the gray valve and count to 10. Close the gray valve and drop the hose and let it completely drain. This sends a slug of water back into the black tank and provides a formative flush. Close the black valve and open the gray.
To make this process a bit easier, I use one of these on the tank valve: https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T58-.../dp/B000BGHYJS

It's helpful because if either of your tank valves is leaking, it's a second valve to prevent a full-on leak. It eliminates any dribbling when you open your cap.

Also, it helps with the back flush - same procedure above without lifting the hose. Just close this valve while leaving the black valve open. Then open the gray for a bit, close it, and then open the main valve. I repeat this a few times and get a great flush of the black tank.
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Old 10-28-2016, 04:32 PM   #43
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2004 30' Classic
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Did you keep the black water valve open? I know of people who kept the valve open all the time. That is a no no.
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Old 08-14-2017, 01:44 PM   #44
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League City , TX
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Thumbs up Ooh

Some great info here for a newb like me and surely beneficial to others as well!
Cheers to all who shared, I know I will benefit from it..
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