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Old 04-20-2013, 05:59 PM   #29
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Yes, leaving the dump handle closed can cause this.

How long did the water run into the tank? It will take several minutes to fill it, depending on water pressure and how full it was, and then might blow a seal. Did you get dirty brown water? If the pipe from the exterior was disconnected from the tank or separated near the filler, you'd only get clear water and right away. If you blew a seal after filling the tank, it would first have to fill the tank and you might get dirty water.

Some people never use the sewer flusher and wouldn't know if the pipe from the exterior was separated, never connected, a seal dried out or failed from too much pressure.

I think a backflush system like the Flush King does a better job of cleaning the tank, but if you let it go too long, water will rise up the vent pipe and come down the side of the trailer—don't ask how I know. It could test the toilet seals (ours were fine).

If you never use the sewer flusher again, seems like you'd still have to find out what is wrong. If the seal at the top of the tank has failed, dirty water and odors can escape into the belly pan. If the pipe has failed elsewhere, you may not get water from the tank, but you may get odors. It is more likely the problem is well above the tank, or you would have never seen any water until it leaked out of the belly pan.

I hope you find the filler pipe—I suspect it might be behind the shower and very hard to fix. You can open the black tank valve and run water into the flusher again while watching inside to see where the water is coming from and determine if it should be fixed. It might not be worth the trouble. Good luck.

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Old 04-20-2013, 09:04 PM   #30
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I found the issue. The siphon valve broke at the output connection. I disconnected the black water flush valve and from the wardrobe access door I was able to find the hose. I have a small compartment behind a curved door on my Classic. The hose runs along the floor then makes a 90 deg turn upwards. The siphon valve is screw on that. Another hard hose from the black tank has a 90deg fitting that screws on the other side of the siphon valve. The tow hoses with the siphon valve stand upright between the AS wall and the shower wall. Im not sure if it was my actions that broke it or just the constant banging around of the valve behind the shower. Looks like an easy fix. When I had the water running I could hear it filling the tank, so it didn't break right away. I'll try to find it online, Lakeview RV Supply model 1000, 125psi, 118F 1/2"

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Old 04-20-2013, 09:39 PM   #31
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Can't seem to find this part online. Is the only source Lakeview RV Supply and Airstream?

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Old 04-20-2013, 11:46 PM   #32
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I'd replace that with an ordinary elbow.

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Old 04-21-2013, 06:05 AM   #33
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I think I'll do that. I guess just any 1/2" elbow from Home Depot/Lowes plumbing will do. I just want to avoid another flooding. I've removed the soaked insulation and will replace it with new insulation. I've mopped up as much of the water in under the wardrobe access and left the door open to allow air to circulate in the compartment. I might as well take my shop vac and use it to clean up all the construction debris also.

Next task is to try to check the water pump filter and clean it if necessary. I removed the access panel under the fridge to check for any flooding and found the filter buried under venting, wires, water pipes. Why do they have to put it way back in there?

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Old 04-21-2013, 01:04 PM   #34
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They've been installing the pump that way for decades and no amount of complaints to Airstream seem to make any difference to them.

Glad to see you found the culprit. That looks like vinyl tubing. It can be hard to split thicker vinyl, but that looks pretty thin. It may have been weakened when it was pushed onto the elbow and as time went on, the break just got bigger. But, is that a compression fitting off to the left?—the wrong sized tubing, or wrong tubing, can be cut by a compression fitting too. If you can find an elbow with a barbed male fitting, they are really good at preventing leaks and should not damage the tubing (if everything is the right size).

I think you have a couple of options besides replacing the elbow—plug the elbow and don't use the sewer washer again or replace the vinyl tubing with something more durable.

I've never tried to remove the interior of the wardrobe and I'm glad to hear it must have come out pretty easily. Ours has a area toward the back that is built up like a bench for little, very little, people. I guess you can remove that for access.

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Old 04-21-2013, 07:01 PM   #35
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Here is my elbow. It was impossible to find a single piece male 1/2" elbow so the Home Depot gal showed me a PVC elbow with female 1/2" and then took me to the sprinkler section for two male extensions. I used a little plumbers tape and screwed in the male fittings and then installed it on the black flush line. I did'nt have a water hook up so I connected a hose from the exterior hose fitting and ran it into the black flush fitting, turned on the water pump and verified no leaks. Then I pushed the hoses under the wardrobe frame and the elbow is now behind the shower.

I bought a 2 1/2 gal shop vac for the Airstream and vacuumed out all the debris. Everything felt dry. I also purchased a small bag of 2" pink insulation and stuffed it along the aluminum wall inside. Hopefully this will be the end of this.

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Old 04-21-2013, 08:05 PM   #36
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Don't stuff the pink insulation too tight—it crushes the air spaces and it loses its insulation value.

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Old 04-21-2013, 08:18 PM   #37
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Good to hear, Kelvin. Because there may be a path of odors out this connection, use a screw-in plug for it, not the push-in plug furnished with my Flying Cloud. And of course never hook this up to a campground water spigot without a a back-flow preventer on it, and carry one with you just in case.

Do not use a hose you use for potable water with it, but that's the same as before putting in the elbow. And after using this NoFuss Flush system, immediately disconnect the hose.

A back flow is possible when the dump valve is closed, and say, the toilet valve stuck open or a bathroom faucet (this drains into the black tank in most newer trailers) was left open during the night. In that case it would probably overflow the bath sink and . . . yuk, before attempting to come out the exterior flush connector.

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Old 04-22-2013, 04:39 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Good to hear, Kelvin. Because there may be a path of odors out this connection, use a screw-in plug for it, not the push-in plug furnished with my Flying Cloud. And of course never hook this up to a campground water spigot without a a back-flow preventer on it, and carry one with you just in case.

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Lots to consider for this simple system. I had to look those up but found an examples on line. The first photo of the Camco there is no way to hook it up to the black tank flush connector on the AS. The third one won't work either. What I need is Female on one side and male on the other with that being the direction of flow. The hose end is male at the trailer and female at the city water faucet. I checked the some other RV forums and found this suggestion you can buy a Lowes, see the 2nd photo. They also suggest using a water cutoff valve also so you can turn the water off at the trailer. The black fitting is found in the irrigation section.

I'll have to try to find a screw in plug. I have the same type you do that is pressure fit.

Does the bathroom sink really flow into the black tank? The grey is so close why would they do that?

Thanks

Kelvin
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:51 AM   #39
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Some bath sinks flow into BW tank nd some don't. Mine doesn't.
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:51 AM   #40
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I'm pretty sure that the only discharge into the black tank is the throne. All others are directed to the grey. At least that's what I've been led to believe. Unless the plumbing system is modified. Then, of course, anything goes.
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:04 AM   #41
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I distinctly remember this discussion relative to a particular plumbing problem in another thread some time ago. Don't remember enough to find it. It was verified that some more recent floorplans do indeed dump bath sink into the gray tank. It prompted me to experiment with mine and verify that mine doesn't.

This is not necessarily a bad thing for 2 reasons.

We seem to always run out of gray capacity before black.

And,

The extra liquid from the bath sink ensures a good proportion of solids vs. liquid for a good black tank drain.
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Old 04-22-2013, 10:24 AM   #42
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The way to check whether the bathroom sink is plumbed into the black tank is to shut of the valve that supplies water to the toilet, open the toilet valve that lets water out of the toilet (different valve—the shut off valve should be behind the toilet), and turn on the water in the sink. If you hear water flowing into the tank, then the sink drain is plumbed into the black tank. I don't know if you could see it with a flashlight. You could empty the black tank, turn on the water in the sink, go outside and watch whether water comes out of the black tank drain if you have a transparent sewer connection.

I tried the former method and it appeared the sink wasn't plumbed into the black tank.

For the past several years, some Forum members have said their bathroom sink is plumbed into the black tank and others have said theirs isn't. What models are and aren't—I don't know. Most have said it makes sense to have the bathroom sink drain into the black tank for the reasons stated by Rich above. Another Airstream mystery.

When bookdocking, we use a dish pan in the kitchen sink when washing dishes and dump it into the black tank to save space in the grey tank.

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