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Old 08-12-2016, 05:27 PM   #15
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OK. Got the dump valve removed.

1.Found a 2+ inch crack in the black tank extending from the dump hole. I can pretty easily get at it. I think I can seal it using something like Flex Seal. I did the same thing about a year ago on my fresh water tank and it is still holding.

2.The mounting flange between the dump valve does not want to easily come out. I don't want to force it and do more damage to the crack I found. Looks like there is a ring inside the flange body. Should I cut it out? Other suggestions?

3.The surrounding subfloor is a little punky around the edges, but not completely rotten. I will use a penetrating epoxy like Rot Doctor which I have used successfully before.

4. Can anyone identify the small black hose next to the mounting flange?

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Old 08-12-2016, 06:42 PM   #16
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It's good you found the source of the leak.

I understand 3M makes an adhesive kit for polyethylene tanks. You might research it on the internet. Sealing cracked polyethylene isn't just real easy. It is a thermoplastic material and it can be "welded", but that takes some experience also.

All I can imagine the 1 1/2" black hose connector is for the gray water drain. Maybe you can turn on the kitchen faucet and see if any water comes out this pipe?

David
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Old 08-12-2016, 06:56 PM   #17
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All I can imagine the 1 1/2" black hose connector is for the gray water drain. Maybe you can turn on the kitchen faucet and see if any water comes out this pipe?

David
Yes the 1 1/2 is grey water.

There is a small diameter black hose near the valve mounting flange. I don't know what it is for.
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Old 08-12-2016, 07:45 PM   #18
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Yes the 1 1/2 is grey water.

There is a small diameter black hose near the valve mounting flange. I don't know what it is for.
Are you sure it's a hose? Could it be the electrical umbilicle running from the bumper to the breaker panel?
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Old 08-13-2016, 08:27 AM   #19
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It's good you found the source of the leak.

It is a thermoplastic material and it can be "welded", but that takes some experience also.


David
Might not be able to get at the crack to weld it without removing the tank. If that is the case I will replace it. I believe I can get at the crack for gluing.
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Old 08-13-2016, 06:37 PM   #20
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Okay, give it a try. The tank is no good the way it is. If the adhesive won't seal it up, you can always replace it.

Maybe your Airstream would like a shinny new black water tank if it comes to that.

David
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Old 08-14-2016, 09:17 AM   #21
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Are you sure it's a hose? Could it be the electrical umbilicle running from the bumper to the breaker panel?
Yes! Duh!!
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Old 08-15-2016, 07:53 PM   #22
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Yes! Duh!!
We all have moments!
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Old 08-21-2016, 07:41 AM   #23
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I understand 3M makes an adhesive kit for polyethylene tanks.

David
After talking to 3M they make 2 products. 3M does not do retail sales. They referred me to Grainger. I was told I need to open an account. After hearing from someone else at another Grainger department asking if this was a commercial sale, never heard back from them.
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Old 08-21-2016, 08:06 AM   #24
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In a related thread Jammer recommends West System G-Flex epoxy with preheating the area.I will talk to the West Marine people

I talked to the Flex-Seal folks who say Flex Seal will stick to polyethylene.

Checking the crack further, it is an old crack that was previously sealed with an unknown product. This product did seal the crack for at least a couple of decades.
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Old 08-22-2016, 02:52 PM   #25
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I talked to the Flex-Seal folks who say Flex Seal will stick to polyethylene.

Don't do it! Just won't hold up.
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Old 09-18-2016, 03:23 PM   #26
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Since I could access the crack, kind of, through the discharge hole I settled on liquid Flex Seal which reduced the leak to a slowish drip. Any kind of black water drip is too much so I attacked the drip, which seems to be coming from where the flange meets the tank with slicone. This reduced the steady drip to a slow drip. Maybe a little more silicone.

I also saw a product for plugging mystery leaks in hot tubs which may be my next to last resort. The last resort will be replacing the bugger.

Any other suggestions for a product I can add to the water in the black tank that will plug up a tiny leak?
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Old 09-23-2016, 01:33 PM   #27
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Time to throw in the towel

and the sponge and the bucket. I did manage to get some leaks plugged but founid a new one I can't get at. So I am going to replace the tank which means removing the toilet and the plastic flashing. While I am at it I want to pull the existing sink cabinetry and update it.

So I am looking for a new small sink, and a combo sink faucet which also attaches to the shower hose. Any suggestions?

The Tradewind has a wet bath.

Probably getting a new tank from Vintage Trailer Supply
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Old 09-23-2016, 07:31 PM   #28
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I believe you have come to the best solution, even if it's going to cost money and time.

I didn't know the 71 Trade Wind had a wet bath. You might forget about the shower valve and shower head. The most important thing is the toilet, black tank, and maybe install a gray tank while your at it. Vintage Airstream showers aren't the greatest and there are perfectly good bathhouses in most campgrounds. Or take a dip in the lake. Wet baths stay wet for several hours after use. You end up tracking dirt into the bath or water out of it.

You can buy plastic RV sinks on line from several sources. Bath sink faucets are hardware store items. Same with the drain plumbing.

Showers are overrated in my view. I would imagine people around me would disagree. Maybe that's why folks in the campground don't seem to want to talk to me much.

David
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