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Old 05-14-2010, 02:58 PM   #1
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1965 26' Overlander
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Black tank leak

Our black tank has sprung a stinky leak. Here is my question should we attempt to remove and replace it ourselves or is this a project better left for the professionals? What is the process and how much tear apart to remove is there to do such a job? Any advice would be greatly appreciated as we are trying to get her roadworthy for a month long trip in July. Thanks.
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Old 05-14-2010, 04:45 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by NicheVintage View Post
Our black tank has sprung a stinky leak. Here is my question should we attempt to remove and replace it ourselves or is this a project better left for the professionals? What is the process and how much tear apart to remove is there to do such a job? Any advice would be greatly appreciated as we are trying to get her roadworthy for a month long trip in July. Thanks.
It's not a big job to change out the tank, as long as you have one that is the same size.

Typically, it would take a do it yourselfer maybe 5 to 6 hours to do it.

No special tools required other than rivets and a rivet gun along with a drill motor.

But, if the leak has been on going for some time, you may have to replace the metal pan. That pan can be made by a local sheet metal shop, if needed.

Andy
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Old 05-14-2010, 05:30 PM   #3
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black water tank

Niche, it does get involved. I ordered a kit to rebuild my valve but it was incorrect so I put another of the "same" valve in it. The difference was only 1.5 inches higher which for me meant everything from there up had to be modified to compensate.(I did not want to get into replumbing) I left out the "riser" (a peice of plywood about 3 inches wide and the length of the tank) which was supposed to aid in drainage but eventually caused the tank to crack and leak) and reinforced the top plywood cut out that sits on top of the tank to support some of the weight. Over all it works. The most difficult/annoying part was reinstalling the tambor door and actually making it functional.
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Old 05-14-2010, 06:51 PM   #4
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On my 68 Trade Wind the black tank sits in a galvanized steel box. If your galvanized box is in good shape, all you have to do is remove the toilet, unscrew the closet flange from the black tank, cut the vent line, cut the gray water line, remove the belly pan under the tank,remove the bolts that hold the crosspieces holding up the galvanized box, and then lower the black tank. It is not hard but depending your mechanical skills can be a pain. Sometimes a new valve will fix the problems, but if you need a new tank, Andy at Inland has them. The new ones are well constructed of fiberglass. They will require you to install the new flange for the toilet and vent. Again, not hard but does require you to fiberglass the new fittings to the top of the new tank. There are cheaper tanks out there, but they are not a direct replacement and Airstream had a pretty good system for the time. Time saved was worth the price to get an OEM tank.
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Old 05-14-2010, 07:39 PM   #5
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..mine was probably worse than yours, as some of the support arms had rusted out and I had to re-weld new ones...it CAN get quite involved when you reach the "well I might as well fix THIS while I'm down here" stage...

here's the thread:

//www.airforums.com/forums/f36/69-safari-bath-floor-repair-38434.html
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Old 05-14-2010, 07:39 PM   #6
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too many slashes:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...air-38434.html
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