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Old 06-25-2014, 10:38 AM   #1
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1968 26' Overlander
Duluth , Minnesota
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 90
Black Tank, Grey Tank, New Tank, Old Tank

I am refurbishing the bath and fixing floor in my '68 Overlander. While tearing things apart, I found the toilet sits on a "riser" (plastic block 6" tall), as does the tub (plywood base). My model only has a single tank (black tank) that is 17 gal. This is under the floor and everything over it except the last 10" of floor is in great shape. For now, I will be replacing only that portion of the floor and reinstalling the original bath.

My idea is to add a black tank that would sit on the floor and replace the toilet "riser", and part of the tub riser. All of this is wasted space as originally designed. It measures out to be about 30" long by 24" wide by 5" tall assuming a rectangular tank is used. This would yield just under 15 gallons which is plenty for me. The toilet would basically sit on a platform over the tank. Tank would be vented out the Starboard sewer stack, and the outlet would be in the "service center and tie into the outlet from the old black tank now grey tank for dumping purposes.

I have read a lot of posts about adding weight in the rear of the trailer, etc. For my purposes, this will be less of an issue as the tanks will rarely if ever need to be full during transport. I also believe these concerns to be somewhat overstated assuming the trailer is in otherwise good condition structurally.

Is a 5" tall tank going to work OK as a black tank? Is there risk of "pile up" below the toilet? I could go to 6" or 7" under the toilet and down to 5" under the tub if I go custom.

I have seen tanks that allow toilet install directly on the tank with a notation that the tank is strengthened for this purpose. Any experience with this? I think I can add extra structure to support the toilet and its occupant quite easily if needed.

Looking for general thoughts and opinions.

Thanks,

Mark
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Old 06-25-2014, 01:43 PM   #2
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1968 24' Tradewind
Oxford, , Mississippi
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Extra black tank capacity can be good thing but weighting the cost, time and work vs just staying with what you have-I know what I did. My bath set up is exactly like yours. My rear floor was rotten as well plus my black tank and valve were in bad shape. After lots of thinking I went back with original design. I did not want to get into re-routing vents and grey water drains, all the pipes were there and I wanted to go camping and not spend months trying to make it all work. We have had our trailer back together for 5 years and if doing it again I would keep the original black tank set up. We can go around 4 days before the black tank is getting full but now most places have full hook ups so it really is never an issue. I always carry a blue boy for grey water and could use it to dump the black tank if I had to (but never have had to). I would add a grey tank since Steve at VTS has them sized for old Airstreams if I were pulling the entire belly pan. Those weren't an option when I did mine plus I did not pull the entire belly pan.
If you have any questions on doing the floor PM me, I have some tips that might help and save you some time.

Also, check out Tom's site. He is a good friend of mine and has lots of info on his redo of a 67 Overlander.1967 Airstream Overlander
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Old 06-25-2014, 02:11 PM   #3
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1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground , Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunkroom View Post
...The toilet would basically sit on a platform over the tank...
That is how it is setup in the 60s Caravels, but the toilet is in a different position, so I guess the shape of it would be different. Cjohnson described in his redo having a custom tank made to extend into the closet for extra capacity. You might find that thread useful for some tips.
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Old 07-22-2014, 08:35 PM   #4
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1970 27' Overlander
1970 21' Globetrotter
Hamilton , Montana
Join Date: Mar 2014
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My 70 Globe Trotter has an above floor factory black tank.
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