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Old 08-31-2014, 08:55 AM   #1
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2009 27' FB International
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Black Tank Flush Leak

The Black Tank Flush inlet where you hook the water hose to flush the tank is leaking inside the wall of our trailer. Water comes out the belly pan just below the inlet nozzle on curb side of trailer. Water makes it into the black tank, but is also leaking at the inlet nozzle behind the outside wall.
Has anyone else had this issue and what did it take to repair. We have a 09 27FB International.
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Old 08-31-2014, 09:00 AM   #2
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There is an anti-siphon valve inside the trailer that lets the air and water out of the back flush when the hose removed. It should be accessible inside somewhere. I would check that first, to see if the diaphragm in the valve has failed. That is a fairly easy fix.
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Old 08-31-2014, 10:16 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
There is an anti-siphon valve inside the trailer that lets the air and water out of the back flush when the hose removed. It should be accessible inside somewhere. I would check that first, to see if the diaphragm in the valve has failed. That is a fairly easy fix.
I read on at least one other thread in this forum that the backflow preventer for the black tank flush is a POS plastic part that tends to fail. Use the "search function" to find these threads if you are interested in doing further research on this subject. It is apparently fairly easy to get to this valve and replace from inside the trailer. It is apparently just inside the skin of the trailer where the flush attachment is located. You should figure out where it is inside the trailer (based on where the flush attachment is on the outside) and see if there is some panel that you can remove to get to it. I would definitely replace it with a higher quality part and not attempt to bypass it for what I hope are obvious reasons. if you are not handy, and you don't have easy access to an Airstream or RV dealer, a good residential plumber should be able to do this for you.

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Old 08-31-2014, 11:17 AM   #4
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Anti-siphon valve (lets air in/water out) has a different function from a backflow preventer (stops backward flow).

Look for something like this:
Anti-Siphon Valve

Though, you might have a different type that requires a pipe to be cut and glued or a pex fitting. The one I replaced was threaded.
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:44 AM   #5
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Thanks.

Thanks for the info. I like to gather info before I tear into something.
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Old 09-03-2014, 09:02 AM   #6
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We have the exact same problem but I decided to leave well enough alone. I cannot see any way to get to that fitting without removing the outside panel.
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Old 09-25-2014, 07:02 AM   #7
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Repair Update

To access the backflow preventer (check valve) in our 27 FB International. In the closet behind a step panel ( three screws).

I did not get a picture of the access panel, but it looks like a small step about 6" x 6" in the closet.
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I replaced it with a 1/2" threaded elbow and will use a backflow preventer on the end of the hose I use to flush the tank.
Do not let this leak continue. It impacts the floor and furnace blower and associated wiring.
My backflow preventer was a hard clear plastic that developed several cracks.
Also replace the rubber gaskets/washers in the Pex fittings while you have it apart. Total cost about $8.00 A new backflow preventer was between $ 30 and 50 dollars. You can buy brass ones that attach to the end of a garden hose from hardware stores for $10.00.
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Old 09-25-2014, 09:19 AM   #8
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If the leak is truly just behind where you screw in the hose for the black flush, it could be the fitting right behind it, where the city water also hooks into the built-in pressure regulator for the city water. Ours leaked once, and that is where it came from. But our rig could be plumbed different from yours.
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Old 09-25-2014, 09:33 AM   #9
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Same issue on my preowned 2008 Classic 25fb. The first time I used the black flush water came streaming out the bottom of the trailer while at a full hookup campsite. Broken one way valve. I put an elbow in mine too. I went to an RV parts and looked for a gray elbow piece with the correct threads. I don't really bother with a one way valve most of the time. I use a separate 15' hose for that purpose. The black flush line in mine comes straight up from the tank then make a U turn at the elbow and the then goes back down to the outside connection.

I was able to get to mine through the water pump hatch on the floor of the hall closet. I could reach in and mop up most of the remaining water and let the insulation dry.

The plastic one way valve is junk. Looks like the in the 27 the black tank flush lines are secured nicely. Mine is just wedged in between the shower wall and outside wall. To prevent it from flapping between the outside wall and shower wall I wrapped the line with some PVC pipe foam.

I wonder if Airstream uses this junky part in the 2015s?

Kelvin
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Old 09-25-2014, 10:03 AM   #10
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While we are on the topic of the anti-siphon valve, I decided to take a look at my OEM fitting (1998). Here is what I have-

Repair Kits for 288A Hot or Cold Water Anti-Siphon Vacuum Breakers - Backflow Prevention - Support

It is solid brass, and the manufacturer offers a repair kit, should it leak. That clear plastic one that cracks with minor aging seems to be another example of Airstream trying to cut costs.
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Old 09-25-2014, 10:32 AM   #11
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If I had known about that valve I might of used it. However what is the weight of this part? My black tank piping is not secured by a bracket like in the previous photos.

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Old 09-25-2014, 10:43 AM   #12
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Mine is also secured by a bracket. Based on its size, the valve probably weighs about a pound or so.
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Old 09-25-2014, 12:05 PM   #13
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Two different type of valves. The plastic one is for the black tank flush, no resistance, straight flow thru. The brass is likely on the main water line for the trailer. That is under pressure when not running so makes sense that it is more robust.
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Old 09-25-2014, 04:23 PM   #14
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Also, everyone who has this black tank flush system should be sure to remember to blow it out with compressed air or pump RV antifreeze through it when you winterize your unit. Freezing is probably the reason many of them have failed to begin with. One just does not think of the fact that water is held in them by a check valve. It will only be eliminated with air or forced in anti freeze.
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