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Old 09-25-2014, 09:16 PM   #15
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And consider adding one of those hose/filter screen/washer things replacing the washer in the outside fitting. While having service done last week at Jackson Center one of the things corrected was that the flush was not working. They had to drop the pan and grey/black tanks to completely pull the black tank. They found some type of red colored plastic shavings clocking the sprayer. The sprayer itself is a brass fitting with a number of holes drilled in the cap. It has it's own plastic mounting plate.

Found the hose screens, 2 pack, at Home Depot. Interesting is that the fresh water connection has a screen in it, at least on my 2014 FC.
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Old 12-05-2014, 12:55 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Schrader View Post
To access the backflow preventer (check valve) in our 27 FB International. In the closet behind a step panel ( three screws).

I did not get a picture of the access panel, but it looks like a small step about 6" x 6" in the closet.
Attachment 222825

Attachment 222826

I replaced it with a 1/2" threaded elbow and will use a backflow preventer on the end of the hose I use to flush the tank.
Do not let this leak continue. It impacts the floor and furnace blower and associated wiring.
My backflow preventer was a hard clear plastic that developed several cracks.
Also replace the rubber gaskets/washers in the Pex fittings while you have it apart. Total cost about $8.00 A new backflow preventer was between $ 30 and 50 dollars. You can buy brass ones that attach to the end of a garden hose from hardware stores for $10.00.
Great post Craig. I did the repair and instead of an anti-siphon or anti-backflow, I attached a ball valve to the hose which does the same function plus gives you flow control at the trailer. I usually use these ball valves with the inflatable hoses anyway. The location of the anti-siphon valve is the same for the 25FB models, behind a panel in the back of the closet by the shower.

I need to follow Gary's pointer and get a hose screen for the outside too.
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Old 12-05-2014, 10:58 PM   #17
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Old 12-15-2014, 02:43 PM   #18
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Had this same problem with my 2009 28' Flying Cloud. Went to local RV store and showed them my vacuum breaker(same as photoes in earlier post). Was told that manufacturer had "gone out of business" and sold me a black one which is made by J R Products- B&B Model 571".

I was told by the RV shop that this is a frequent part to fail. No cracks or visable defects in my old part; but, it was "frozen" closed. I pump rv antifreeze through this line in the Fall and wondered if that had somehow "stuck" the breaker closed?? Any ideas on this?

Considered eliminating the part as a couple of earlier posters have done and decided not so as to not create a potential liability when the trailer is sold at some point??
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Old 05-02-2015, 11:58 AM   #19
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Dare I ask..... Is the black tank spray head accessable any other way other than removing the black tank ?
I've been troubleshooting my failed blacktank flushing system this afternoon and have water flow all the way up to where the PEX disappears through the floor on it's way to the black tank.
My backflow is right behind the inlet for the flush. (working good)
I removed the vacuum breaker and replaced with an elbow.
So I'm left thinking it has to be a clogged sprayer head? To my knowledge there is nothing else possible to restrict.
Some have said to fill black tank and let the head "soak" to possibly release "gunk" on the outer surface of the head. I dont believe this will help. We live fulltime and up until the flusher stopped working, it was in regular use ( 3 times a week)
It started making noise about a month before it suddenly just stopped flowing water through it.
Dare I ask if the sprayer head is accessable maybe through the toilet access hole?
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Old 10-23-2015, 10:17 AM   #20
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Great tip, and timely too, as I recently performed my first winterization. I read seversl forums and other references, invkuding the AS owner manual fir my 23 FC and not one mentioned this important connection. As a new AS owner I am astounded that after 70+ years of design and manufacturing by the supposed premier trailer company, this info is not readily available, or that a better design with quality material is not in place. Seems like pennies are saved in manufacturing and materials only to create considerably more costs within a year or two of ownership. I speak as a first-time owner who had to return a trailer becausecof a major gray water leak during our very first shake down trip. The inconvenience and cost to us for the warranty work was in the hundreds of dollars when our time was considered, not to mention the discomfort of heading out on much a longer trip not knowing what else would happen (znd much did happen in the ensuing trip while we were far from any service.
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Old 10-11-2016, 03:45 PM   #21
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Going to the RV store to see if I can get a better replacement part, if not I will be putting in an elbow instead.
Thanks for the tips.
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