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Old 05-09-2011, 12:26 PM   #1
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2009 25' FB International
Naples , Florida
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Black Tank Dump Valve Repair Cost

Valve on my '09 International 25 won't close completely. Something obviously stuck. Repair estimates all over the map but likely due to non-Airstream dealer lack of familiarity with our systems. Guessing belly pan will have to be dropped to get at the valves. Camping World has a retrofit valve for the outside of the dump pipe. Probably a viable temporary fix but maybe not permanent. Any recent experience like this? Recomendations? Thanks you guys. bbherb
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Old 05-09-2011, 01:15 PM   #2
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I don't know if newer models have an access panel, but as I understand it, on older models the repair involves cutting an access hole under the valve, doing the repair and then cutting a piece of alum and screwing it up on the belly pan to cover the hole.
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Old 05-09-2011, 01:17 PM   #3
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BTW, have you tried getting a flush valve, going to a dump station and shooting water up the drain pipe to see if you can break loose the blockage?
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Honda EU2000i, Equalizer Hitch
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Old 05-09-2011, 01:51 PM   #4
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Try some in-tank bacteria like Rid-ex, this is good for breaking down tissue and re-introducing good bacteria in your black tank. Mine has had valve blockage too,
But I got rid of it after several 6-7 flush and
Fill procedures.
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Old 05-09-2011, 01:56 PM   #5
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I think my second post might be confusing as I said "get a flush valve", just to be clear, what I meant was something like this.
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Old 06-15-2011, 12:46 PM   #6
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1962 26' Overlander
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black tank valve rebuild or replace

hi folks, i just got out the black water tank from 62 overlander. the heavy metal valve on the bottom is the thetford valve? mine seems to leak at the seam where the valve is gasketed together. perhaps a new gasket would do it and it seems quite difficult to remove entire valve from tank, without breaking tank.

suggestions? thanks, joe k
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Old 06-15-2011, 01:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe K View Post
hi folks, i just got out the black water tank from 62 overlander. the heavy metal valve on the bottom is the thetford valve? mine seems to leak at the seam where the valve is gasketed together. perhaps a new gasket would do it and it seems quite difficult to remove entire valve from tank, without breaking tank.

suggestions? thanks, joe k
Joe.

Most owners cut out that brass valve and the install a new style valve, in the fiberglass tank.

Andy.
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Old 06-17-2011, 03:24 PM   #8
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1962 26' Overlander
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black water tank repair or replace?

thanks andy, do you have the valve? is it better than the original brass? if not, replacing gaskets probably much easier. thanks, joe
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Old 06-17-2011, 03:56 PM   #9
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thanks andy, do you have the valve? is it better than the original brass? if not, replacing gaskets probably much easier. thanks, joe
Joe.

First, you cut away the old valve.

Then you glass in it's place a Thetford glass-on adapter.

When that cures out, you mount the appropriate valve to the adapter with 4 screws. Then you hook up to the valve whatever needs to be, so that you can attach the sewer hose.

But, don't cut anything until you have the parts on hand.

Takes about 3 to 4 hours to do, spread over a couple of days, so that the fiberglass can cure out.

Best way, is to remove the tank, and work on it when it's upside down.

And to answer your question, yes.

Takes a little time, but well worth the effort.

Andy
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Old 06-17-2011, 04:06 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbherb View Post
Valve on my '09 International 25 won't close completely. Something obviously stuck. Repair estimates all over the map but likely due to non-Airstream dealer lack of familiarity with our systems. Guessing belly pan will have to be dropped to get at the valves. Camping World has a retrofit valve for the outside of the dump pipe. Probably a viable temporary fix but maybe not permanent. Any recent experience like this? Recomendations? Thanks you guys. bbherb

In post # 2 Soboy said how they did it on old trailers and that is how it's handled on the new ones too.
On the newer trailers, a hole is still cut in the belly and when the repair is done a new sheet of aluminum is used to cover the hole. There is no need to remove the belly pan. The piece of replacement is usually held in place with self tapping screws. That's the way it's done at the service center in JC, anyway.
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Old 06-18-2011, 11:12 AM   #11
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2009 25' FB International
Naples , Florida
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Black Tank Gate Valve Blockage

Thanks all you guys! I was in a hurry to hit the road so I got a screw-on valve from Camping World. It's all plastic and cost about $20. Works fine and protects from spills due to the black gate valve leaking and leaving waste right behind the hose attachment cap. Before I resort to the radical fixes, will try the pressure flushing. Thanks again to all of you for your help. See you down the road!! Bill
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Old 06-18-2011, 11:20 AM   #12
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2009 25' FB International
Naples , Florida
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That Camco gadget is exactly what I thought I'd need but had never seen one. I'm going to get the Pro version. $26 is a great deal. Bet this will do it. Will try to keep you posted. Thanks again so much for the steer in the right direction. Safe travels, Soyboy! Bill
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Old 06-23-2011, 03:54 PM   #13
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1962 26' Overlander
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thetford valve replacement

hi andy, i hope this is the right way to contact you. ok, you say i need to replace my brass blackwater valve on 62 overlander with a new plastic one. i was on your site and see several that may work.

do i need an adapter? what about the collector type? i'm ready to order, do i need some fiberglass resin or the like?

last question. how to you measure brakes? i see some 10 inch and some 12. thanks, joe
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