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Old 03-03-2008, 09:07 AM   #1
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Black Tank Box Replacement Cost

Hi ,

My 67 Overlander box for the holding tank needs replacing,

what is a good estimate for the cost?

I read in the forums that sheet metal shops can fabricate one.

This project is becoming bigger by the week.
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Old 03-03-2008, 09:10 AM   #2
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Replacement Cost

If I would have had the sheet metal shop build a new one it would have cost me 35 for the metal and 50 for the constuction. I built mine myself and if I had to do it again I would have the shop build it for me.

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Old 03-21-2008, 12:16 PM   #3
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I just picked mine up from a local sheet metal shop. I took him my old one and he built an exact replacement for $60. I took the old box to him yesterday afternoon and he had my new one ready this morning.
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I did not have him make the holes for the sensors and etc. as I have knockout tools available for that.
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Old 03-22-2008, 05:57 AM   #4
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That's a great price

Quote:
Originally Posted by vhord
... I took him my old one and he built an exact replacement for $60. ...
$60 is an incredibly reasonable charge with metal prices where they are lately.

When I was in Silverwanabe's position several years ago, a local sheetmetal shop wanted over $100 for a new box which I thought was too high since a 4' X 10' sheet of galvanized 20 gauge steel was only $22. And, the project was only going to require a little over a half sheet.

Last year I was told the steel's price had risen to $48/sheet. I will bet it is even higher now.

Tom
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Old 03-22-2008, 07:16 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW
...a local sheetmetal shop wanted over $100 for a new box which I thought was too high since a 4' X 10' sheet of galvanized 20 gauge steel was only $22. And, the project was only going to require a little over a half sheet
Tom,

The material cost is a very small part of the total. I work for a Metals Fabricator. We do a lot of sheet metal work similar to this box. Shop labor costs somewhere around $85/hr. As you can see, if it takes the guy only an hour, your $100 price is right in line. I've had numerous items fabricated for my trailer... the labor is always what costs the real money. If I can just buy the material and fabricate it myself the cost is usually negligible.

My new tanks are configuired so that no "box" is necessary. They are supported by a flange that is molded into the top part of the tank.

BTW, Silverwanabe... you can get a new larger roto-molded tank like I did for less than the cost of a new steel box to support the one you have. Take a look at THIS ONE

Good Luck!
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Old 03-22-2008, 07:23 AM   #6
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Greg.....just an idea....If there is a vocational school in your area, you may be able to purchase the sheet metal and have them do it for you at lower cost.
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Old 03-22-2008, 07:58 AM   #7
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Perceived value of service

Quote:
Originally Posted by byamcaravanner
... I work for a Metals Fabricator. We do a lot of sheet metal work similar to this box. Shop labor costs somewhere around $85/hr. ...
Steve,

For a full-service shop, okay. But I found the guy I was talking with by looking up "sheet metal fabricators" in the yellow pages. His shop consisted of a shear, brake, and IIRC, a "Pittsburg Seamer". His business was focused on making air conditioner ducting.

$85/hour is high to me for a limited-service, simple-shape shop. My feeling at the time was that the person I spoke to just thought he could get a lot of money from me.

Tom
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Old 03-22-2008, 08:02 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byamcaravanner
... My new tanks are configuired so that no "box" is necessary. ...
Steve,

Are your new tanks heatable for cold weather service? One purpose of my box is to allow ducted, warm air to be circulated around the tank to keep it from freezing.

Just curious,
Tom
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Old 03-22-2008, 03:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW
Steve,

Are your new tanks heatable for cold weather service? One purpose of my box is to allow ducted, warm air to be circulated around the tank to keep it from freezing.
Yes, I plan to add the stick-on heaters to the bottom of my tanks. We don't plan on doing much cold weather camping, but living in Wisconsin, the temps can change quickly... I plan on being prepared. My forced air furnace was gone when I bought my trailer and I don't plan on replacing it or the ductwork.
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Old 04-03-2008, 12:25 PM   #10
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I have the same rig, 67 Amb. and same problem, bad tank. What was the process you did to remove the tank? Was disconnecting the vent hard? I just discovered the bad tank yesterday so I have not dug into the problem very deep.
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Old 04-03-2008, 06:33 PM   #11
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A few Bathroom pics,

more to follow
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Winston Salem, NC
WBCCI 5218,
Corresponding Secretary Piedmont NC Unit 161,
1967 Overlander International.
1979 Avion 30ft rear bath
TV's 88 Chevy Suburban 454, 3:42, TH400
95 Cadillac FW Brougham, LT1,3:42, 7k tow pk.
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Old 04-03-2008, 07:20 PM   #12
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More potty pics:

The frame is in good shape, painted rear with Por 15.

I have heard and scene the horror stories. Frame Rot,ect.

I have new waste tanks from RV Surplus 6 gallons each grey/black with bottom drains. I will not use Thetford fittings. Water lines will be pex with sharkbite fittings. New Suburban 10 gallon water heater, 20 gallon fresh water tank, pump and Sealand low profile china toliet.

Also new Dometic Refer, Fantastic Fans, convertor/electrical panel, cutains, carpet, vinyl and Minwaxed the wood with 2 coats Satin Polyuthane.
new window gaskets, power hitch jack, lp gas cover, hubcaps,Humprey gas light.

But, it does not have A/C

My credit card is smoking
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Winston Salem, NC
WBCCI 5218,
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1967 Overlander International.
1979 Avion 30ft rear bath
TV's 88 Chevy Suburban 454, 3:42, TH400
95 Cadillac FW Brougham, LT1,3:42, 7k tow pk.
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Old 05-10-2008, 08:51 PM   #13
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how long to remove the bathroom

I have a 67 Overlander and I need to inspect my black tank, the galvanized box is rotting. I have pulled the toilet...next step is to get the flange loose, the screws are out, and I am assuming the flange is threaded? Do you just use a hammer and chisel to back thread it? I haven't really fully investigated, but I guess the vent will need to be disconnected, and the grey water connection to the dump valve? While the floor looks really good all the way to the bathroom fiberglass walls, I suspect the plywood beyond there is somewhat soft. so how long did it take to pull the bath, sink and rear walls?
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