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Old 08-16-2010, 03:21 PM   #1
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1964 19' Globetrotter
South Kingstown , Rhode Island
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black tank and toilet flange; when is it necessary to replace the tank?

I'm in the process of fixing some rotten flooring in the rear of our '64 Globetrotter, and replacing the ancient toilet at the same time. I got the old toilet out, but I'm not sure how the flange attaches to the tank (it has to be at a different height for the new toilet than for the old one, so that the toilet fits to the fiberglas bath enclosure) , if there might be something fiberglassed to the tank to glue an ABS fitting to, so I'm wondering if its worth replacing the old black tank at this point. I don't know if it is original, it seems to hold.. stuff, and I rather avoid the expense. On the other hand, if its going to be a nightmare to retrofit the new flange to the tank, should I bite the bullet and replace the tank, then being able to cross that off the list of old systems that may need work. I'll take pics.
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Old 08-16-2010, 04:47 PM   #2
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1977 27' Overlander
1973 27' Overlander
1963 19' Globetrotter
Naples , Florida
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Should be a few screws holding down flange,then it screws out of flange. Dave
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Old 08-16-2010, 04:52 PM   #3
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1968 24' Tradewind
1959 17' Pacer
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I have not taken mine off yet and wont If it isnt leaking but I believe it is threaded in. Im at the stage you are in but I move very slowly. So if you solve the secret of the toilet under the bench let me know. My toilet was poorly shimmed with loose pieces of wood to adjust the height.

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Old 08-16-2010, 05:03 PM   #4
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1964 19' Globetrotter
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Hi-OK, you may have solved the mystery, if the flange is screwed into the tank. Your set up looks very much like mine; the toilet had been set up on two thicknesses of 1" ply, and the flange mounted to that. It was a neat installation, but the floor is shot, after some jabs by a wonder bar it looks like wood chips. I'm thinking I'll remove the 1"x ply and then see about rotating out the flange. Then, I think I may just patch in the floor rather than redo the whole panel in the rear- its solid where it meets the two frame members and for about 6" towards the middle. When I have some time and patience I can redo the whole floor, replumb and perhaps make a new bath layout.
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Old 08-16-2010, 05:13 PM   #5
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I just pulled my black tank from my 73. I don't know if yours is different. I just removed the screws holding it to the floor and inserted a large pair of channel locks into the hole. I open up the pliers to press on the inside of the flange and with a little gentle force the flange just unscrewed from the tank. Look at the pics I have attached and I hope this helps you.
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Old 08-17-2010, 01:51 PM   #6
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1968 20' Globetrotter
Thousand Oaks , California
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I just completed replacing an original Thedford toilet and a new flange on my 1968 Globnetrotter. The flange took me 2 days to lure off. It was identical to the prior post. I called Steve at VTS and got a Sealand Lite. Along with a new laminate floor it easily took the accompanied new flange. It was time consuming but worth it. My floor is also creaky. I will repair it this winter rather than tear the whole bathroom out. I just repainted the bathroom too. Good luck and be patient!
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Old 08-17-2010, 02:44 PM   #7
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Thanks, that is a huge help. I will give it a spin, so to speak. My plan is to use the Sealand toilet, and the trick is fitting everything in under the fiberglass bathroom enclosure thing. The reminder to be patient is helpful as well!
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Old 09-07-2011, 04:04 PM   #8
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1976 28' Argosy 28
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Flange removal

I'm going to respond to this thread for future user reference.

I finally removed my flange. I have a 76 Argosy MH. I've attached pictures of the tool I made. I took a metal bar and cut it to fit in the 2 holes. I used wrenches to rotate the flange putting leverage on the bar. A square piece of metal would have been ideal. I didn't have anything that would fit. I got lucky and it came off.
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