RV service tech tells me that I need to replace the Thetford valve to my black water tank and rebuild the valve on the greywater tank. The valve on the greywater tank has the pipes glued in place which will make it too difficult to replace? Tech tells me that the valve can be rebuilt while still attached? The black water valve pipes are not glued so he will replace the valve..there is some sewage in the black water tank due to the arm pulling out of the valve and breaking off. Tech tells me he can come to me and perform this service for $425.00 does this sound fair and correct? Thats to rebuild one valve and replace the other.
What will happen when I open the valve panel to rebuild it on the black water tank if there is sewage inside the tank? The arm is completely broken off from inside the valve..does the rebuild kit come with a new arm? By the way I have already given Jacksonville RV half the money on my card for the job to be performed..guess its too late to back out and do it myself maybe I could negotiate to a fair price? Does anyone else have any experience with Jacksonville RV of Jacksonville, Fl..
I took the plunge and worked on my valves when they were stuck. Check out the link below and jump in. Four screws should allow you access to the inner workings and I understand that repair kits are available. I just needed to clean them out and replace the gaskets due to damage during dissassembly. You should be able to repair them yourself. Let me know how it goes.
For $425.00, they should replace both valves, put you up in the finest "hotel," AND, pay for your meals at the best place in town, or surrounding towns.
As usual you're right on the mark Andy. With all the improper grousing against parts suppliers going on in other threads, > $400.00 for a couple of valves seems high to me.
Camphost, if you feel up to it go ahead and try the repair yourself. My thought is that you'll find it easier than you think. If you'd like, send me a private message on how we can hook up and I'll talk you thru my experiences with it.
Go for the do-it-yourself route. I rebuilt both my valves and it was not big deal. Parts are readily available and no special tools are required. Gaining access to the valves can be a challenge. I found it was best to cut a large access hole in the belley skin and put the trailer up on a ramp to get more clearence. Once that is done the rest is a snap.
Good luck and let us know if you need some advise.
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James Schmidt
29 ft Excello 1000
97 Expedition/Hensley Hitch/
McKesh mirrors
Bringing this post back as husband has been contemplating replacement of both black/grey dump valves for a year. We just returned from a short trip in the Minuet and when we stopped at dump station, before he could attach hose, the black tank dumped sewage on ground. So, we know it needs doing, the question for him is pay someone or try this himself.
He purchased 2" waste valve replacements made by Valterra (part #T1002
VPM) at Camping World. Not sure if these will work. Also, to him it looks like the rear belly pan must drop in order to reach the valves? That seems like a major job to him, which is why he is contemplating taking it in for the work. Can someone help set us straight on how hard this task is, amount of time involved, whether he purchase correct replacement parts, and if belly pan must be removed? Also, if you have any tricks of the trade to impart that will make job go smoothly, that would be much appreciated. THanks!!!!
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Leigh (IB Aluminated)
"When a great ship is in harbour and moored, it is safe, there can be no doubt. But that is not what great ships are built for." by Clarissa Pinkola-Estes, author of ‘Women Who Run With the Wolves’
...He purchased 2" waste valve replacements made by Valterra (part #T1002 VPM) at Camping World. Not sure if these will work.
I doubt the Valterra valves will work without some sort of adapter plate. But from what I have read, you should be warned that they probably will not last anywhere near as long as your original Thetford valve.
If you plan to keep this Airstream, I recommend you use Thetford parts, as this may not be the last time you address this issue if Valterra parts are used.
I took mine in and had it done after I bought my trailer. New toilet, new black tank valve and flange?, and cutting/repair of the belly pan to gain access. Cost $675 and about 1/2 of that was labor. Personally I thought it was a fair price, they did a good job and it works perfectly. Was worth it to me not to have to mess with it.
I took mine in and had it done after I bought my trailer. New toilet, new black tank valve and flange?, and cutting/repair of the belly pan to gain access. Cost $675 and about 1/2 of that was labor. Personally I thought it was a fair price, they did a good job and it works perfectly. Was worth it to me not to have to mess with it.
Do you recall, or can you check on whether they used Thetford parts?
Go for the do-it-yourself route. I rebuilt both my valves and it was not big deal. Parts are readily available and no special tools are required. Gaining access to the valves can be a challenge. I found it was best to cut a large access hole in the belley skin and put the trailer up on a ramp to get more clearence. Once that is done the rest is a snap.
Good luck and let us know if you need some advise.
What did you use to cut the access in the metal box that houses the valves?
I have been unable to find the proper saw to cut a 3 X 2 section out.
Thanks
Silver Bill, I used "Aircraft" metal cutting snips in a pack of three from Wal-Mart for about $10, IIRC. They did the job, with more effort than I would have liked, but the edge was fairly ugly, although that's covered by an aluminium access plate. (Home Depot sells small sheets of aluminum). One has to take care with drilling holes to start the cut, or if considering a power saw, as the tanks are very close to the metal you are cutting. (Only about half an inch of polystyrene insulation separates the two surfaces) I found it awkward as I was in the middle of a field full of fire ants, and every minute laying on my back under the trailer was a minute too many.
Nick.
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Nick Crowhurst, Excella 25 1988, Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel. England in summer, USA in winter.
"The price of freedom is eternal maintenance."
So, what's the difference between the valterra and thetford? My trailer has a white connector with square numbs and I had to get an adapter so the hose would work on it. I have always thought it was a thetford to valterra adapter.
If that is the case, why would anyone want to keep the thetford during an upgrade if you need the adapter?
Also, I was thinking of getting a backup adapter and it looks like camping world quite carring it.
If you have a Thetford valve(they will be white,Valteras are black) you will not need to change the whole valve and therefore do not need to worry about adapter plates. Repair kits are available at most camping supply stores and all Airstream dealers. They come apart easily(if you have room to work) and the kit contains all new seals, etc. The trick is to gain working room on the valve. I am not sure about your Argosy but in my case I cut a large hole in the belly pan under the tank to access the valve. The hole is about 3 feet square. I then fabricated a large plate out of galvanized metal to cover the hole when fininshed. I used a die grinder with a small cutting wheel and carefully cut a hole in the belly pan. When I was sure I was in the right location I enlarged the hole carefully, being sure not to cause damage to parts behind the pan. When repairs were finished I screwed the plate to the belly pan so that it could be easily removed later if necessary. No sealant is necessary since the belly area needs to breathe. It helps to have the trailer elevated to work under it. For this I fabricated a long ramp out of treated lumber and raised the trailer about 6 inches. It was only necessary to raise one side and that was the side that the sewer connections came out to the edge of the trailer. This is much safer than using jacks and jack stands. Once you get access to the valves, repairs are a snap.
good luck,
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James Schmidt
29 ft Excello 1000
97 Expedition/Hensley Hitch/
McKesh mirrors
i did not replace the valve seals as they were in good shape.
you will see how i cut the hole to gain access to the valves, i used ramps just as james explained, the SAFE WAY!
in the other pics you can see 2 of the four stainless steel screws in the valve body you will need to remove to gain access to the innards of the valves.
the whole assembly is held in pace by rubber couplers and hose clamps you can usually remove it as a unit if the access hole is large enough.
thetford parts are widely available, and are inexpensive.
good luck on your project!
john
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you call them ferrets, i call them weasels.
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Black & Grey valve trouble 
RV service tech tells me that I need to replace the Thetford valve to my black water tank and rebuild the valve on the greywater tank. The valve on the greywater tank has the pipes glued in place which will make it too difficult to replace? Tech tells me that the valve can be rebuilt while still attached? The black water valve pipes are not glued so he will replace the valve..there is some sewage in the black water tank due to the arm pulling out of the valve and breaking off. Tech tells me he can come to me and perform this service for $425.00 does this sound fair and correct? Thats to rebuild one valve and replace the other.
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