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Old 07-23-2004, 03:44 PM   #29
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I know of one member that repaired his poly tank (black water) with a soldering iron and some old translucent milk jugs.

The tank was cracked on the top, so the stresses involved were not as much of an issue, but at this point I am not sure you have much to lose. As he described it he used the soldering iron to heat/melt the plastic of the tank while adding additional material from the milk jugs into the melted section. Basically a low tech form of plastic welding.
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Old 07-23-2004, 05:59 PM   #30
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Price is talking about plastic epoxy. Anyone had a successful usage of that? The plastic welding sounds interesting.>>>>
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Old 07-23-2004, 07:44 PM   #31
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Grey water leak

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
Replacing the valves is pretty easy - on my 75, they could not be rebuilt, so I took off the back bumper, removed the rear-ward sheet and got the sawsall out - had those puppies off in about 5min or less. Then sent the valves to an A/S dealer and he sent me back exact replacements - put new valves, pvc pipe and new connector in - took about 1/2 - 1 hour and ended up with everything new from the tank on out brand new.

I spent more time trying to figure out how to fix the old valves than it took just to replace the whole thing.

Ken
New AS owner needs help. I tested all three tanks (fresh, black, grey) by adding water to ea. When water went in through the sink I noticed the leak right out of the discharge. Although the valve was shut it still would leak and then pour when the valve opened. Here are my questions;

1. Was my test accurate?
2. How do I get to these valves? I have no access panel.

Thanks in advance for all the support. I just bought this AS 75 Tradewind and have yet to camp in it. My three young boys are counting on "father fix-it".

Bob
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Old 07-23-2004, 08:21 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COArgosy78
Price is talking about plastic epoxy. Anyone had a successful usage of that? The plastic welding sounds interesting.>>>>

The issue with the epoxy is that it is a chemical reaction trying to bond to a material that was specifically designed to not bond to anything. That is why the plastic welding works, you are melting the existing material and adding some of the same material in. This is the way the tanks were originally made, heat and pressure.
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Old 07-24-2004, 09:29 AM   #33
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Bob

I have the exact same trailer - sounds to me like you have leaky valves - they get that way when they are old. You should be able to pull the last section of belly out - you have to take off the bumper and remove the sheet - be very careful as you drill out the rivets - the tanks are right above it. Then cut out all the sewer plumbing and carefully remove the valves from the tank, then replace.

Welcome to the forum!

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Old 07-24-2004, 10:35 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazyland
1. Was my test accurate?
That is the method i used to test the valves on mine. To repair the leaking i just purchased rebuild kits for both vavles and that fixed it.
Quote:
2. How do I get to these valves? I have no access panel.
Well, mine is probably different and im sure someone here with a similar model can tell you for sure but from what i've learned, cuttiny yourself a access point under the valves is usually involved, as was in my case. Perhaps you will be able to just remove some of the rivets in the belly pan to get at them.

Good luck.
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Old 07-24-2004, 11:39 AM   #35
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Alright - I'm thinking that the welding idea is the way to go for now, but wondered if anyone has heard of or had experience w/this...

PLASTECH

Saw it when researching in Google. 6oz is about $30. and is only in US at California dealer. Looks promising...?
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Old 07-24-2004, 12:35 PM   #36
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[B]WARNING
Before you work on the black water valve, flush out the tank and put a bleach solution in the tank and pipes. Many forms of bacteria live in there. I did that, and while working on the pipes I had a couple of drips on my forehead. I came down with swelling and scabs on my foehead and eyebrows, and was in bed for the summer. I still have some from time to time.

Wear rubber gloves, and a full face-mask. Be careful.

Rae
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Old 07-24-2004, 01:01 PM   #37
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Rae

Thanks for the reminder - hopefully your unfortunate experience can help others. I know you have posted this before, since this subject comes up from time to time, you should keep reminding those of this bad stuff - this can never be said too many times.

Thanks again - hope you are well now
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Old 07-24-2004, 01:47 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COArgosy78
Alright - I'm thinking that the welding idea is the way to go for now, but wondered if anyone has heard of or had experience w/this...

PLASTECH

Saw it when researching in Google. 6oz is about $30. and is only in US at California dealer. Looks promising...?
Dear CO:
Plastic welding might work. I have used 2-part plastic welder on my tank to patch a hole, but you must have the correct formula. Either go to an RV shop and buy a plastic tank patch, or go to Walmart and look at a product called Plastic Welder, get the company name and call them. They can tell you which product to use. This product only costs $3-4. I can't tell how much room you have on the neck, or which side is split. If it is the valve flange you can buy those and replace them. If it is part of the glued up mechanism, you might get a old inner tube from a tire dealer, buy yourself a bunch of 3-4 inch stainless steel strap hose clamps, make a rubber patch and strap it down with side by side clamps. Good Luck. Jeff
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Old 07-30-2004, 12:34 AM   #39
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Smile Replaced waste valves and drain plumbing

After our 3000 mile trip I had to replace the gray and black water valves and pipes. I did fill the tanks with bleach and water. Took the trailer for a ride to dump the tanks. The removal was easy. I removed the bumper as well as the lower sheet metal. I removed the pipes and valves. Used Naval Jelly on the steel brackets to stop the rust. Painted everything silver. Bought 2 new valves and some adapters. Used Rubber couplers from the tanks to the vavles. Two trips to Home Depot for various 3" drain elbows to complete the installation. Cost me about $150.00 to do the job. The local RV dealer wanted $1000.00 and a week. My Airstream is very easy to work on all it takes a river gun and a drill and some common sense.
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Old 07-31-2004, 06:00 PM   #40
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Talking I have the same Job ahead of me.

How did you remove the belly skin without cutting it? Did you rivit it back on or do you use screws? Do I have to cut all the pipe off? I am actually working on it right now Sat. 7/31 4pm pacific time. I just came in to find out the easiest way to remove rivits when I read you post. This is my first project I am attempting on the 75 25' tradwind I just bought. I have some copper plumbing to replace next. If you have any other advice I would greatly appreciate it. Your post gave me some juice to get this going and take my first camping trip. Bob
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Old 08-01-2004, 01:57 PM   #41
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Bob - we had to cut our bellyskin, the tiny square they provided to reach the plumbing was not nearly big enough), but others have posted about removing their bumpers and unriveting the bellypan. I think cutting might be faster, then you have to have new aluminum to cut and replace the old. We are trying to come up w/plan to easily get to PVC plumbing if need be in the future, which means either screws or some kind of latch on the new piece of aluminum covering rather than re-riveting.
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Old 08-01-2004, 10:38 PM   #42
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Valves are off!!!

Thanks for the feedback. Today I took the bumber off and drilled out the rivits and found that my access was good. As mentioned by others, you do have to cut the ABS pipe to reomove. Please help me with these questions:

1. How do I remove the ABS pipe that is glued to the exit end of the valve?

2. Why do some people use rubber adapters when they re-attach the pipe to the tanks?

3. Are there other valves I should look at beside the Thetford?

Good idea about the easy access door for future repairs. I only live about an hour from Inland so I am thinking of making the drive since I already feel I owe Andy for all the post. Ha ha

Bob
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