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Old 07-01-2008, 11:29 PM   #15
2 Rivet Member

2005 22' Safari
Half Moon Bay , California
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 46
Images: 1
Check out <> RV Tanks - # H136 26 gallons, or# H 86 - 27 gallons. It would fill up either the next to last bay under the floor, just forward of the bathroom, or the bay forward of that. I would like to have it as close to the axle as possible to reduce change in weight distribution as it filled. And that also reduces the moment arm on the rear of the trailer frame if I had to haul it around filled for any distance on a rough road. The Land Yacht is vastly improved now that I've added new steel aft of the wheels. It was a trailer park queen, and suffered from regular irrigation at its stern - the floor under the bathroom was compost, the insulation was still damp, the frame had holes rusted through, and the belly pan was corroded at all the rivets. Forward of the axles, all was healthy except for the belly. Even the mice.

So while replacing one sheet of plywood, 6 1/2 feet of 11 gauge 5 X 1 3/4 frames, and trying to fit a shower into the aft curb-side corner, it seems like the right time to add a gray water tank. Its going to be a little tricky getting the piping to the new tank, venting the tank, and arranging a pipe and valve for the waste.

How have any of you secured the tank to the underside and the frame or cross-members? It doesn't seem wise to weld fixed brackets to the cross-members to secure a plastic tank. Have you any experience with forming a new shower pan in the corner, and locating and installing flexible plastic or fiberglass sheets on the inner skin?

Thank you all for sharing your knowledge and experience so generously. Jim

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Old 07-07-2008, 09:44 PM   #16
3 Rivet Member
1972 23' Safari
Tallassee , Alabama
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 113
What we wanted was to have the ability to stay someplace over night and still be able to use the sinks for things like washing hands and a little clean up after eating.

The original manual recommended leaving the cap on and allowing the pipes to fill but that makes a mess when you take the cap off because there isn't a valve.

The local AS dealer (back in Michigan) came up with the idea of using a section or two of 3" drain pipes going from the kitchen drain and the bathroom drain and putting waste valves on the ends. I can hold about as much as a small blue tank and I don't have to drag it around or lift it.

The price of the pipe is cheap and it didn't require any where near the work to install a full gray water tank.

I don't think I would recommend going long distances with the pipes full, especially over rough terrain.

Tom Bray

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1971, 25', gray water tank

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