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mello mike · 08-23-2009, 08:28 PM

One of my next projects is to drop the pan and cleanout the debris and rust proof the metal brackets and frame in the rear bumper.

Part of this effort will be to replace the ABS pipes in the rear bumper, right now they leak and that's the main reason why I have rust in the rear. This looks pretty straightforward but I do have a couple questions. How is the black water tank connection made? Is this typically a screw fitting or attached with a clamp? It also looks like the 1 1/2 inch ABS connects to a 3 inch ABS as part of the drain. I haven't seen a coupler like this at HD or Lowes. (see pics).

mello mike · 08-27-2009, 06:48 PM

No replys yet? Nobody has cleaned up and rust proofed their rear bumper or redid their ABS drain pipes?

Minno · 08-27-2009, 07:00 PM

I haven't gotten that far on Little Girl yet. However, the 3" to 1 1/2" is fairly easy. Use two reducers: 3" to 2" and then 2" to 1 1/2". They'll nest inside each other just fine, and then nest inside the 3" tee. Try Menards as well - they carry more ABS around where I live than HD and Lowes.

Chris

**Kevin245** · 08-27-2009, 07:04 PM

Hey Mike,

Quite a hodge-podge of plumbing your trunk. The no-hub connections would worry me. The 3" to 1-1/2" connection looks like a reducer bushing. Lowe's and HD carry lots of standard stuff, but I would think a plumbing supply house would carry this item if you're in need of a replacement. I'd definately ditch the no-hubs connectors though, I don't think they are suitable for a movable application such as a TT.

Regards,

Kevin

mello mike · 08-27-2009, 07:16 PM

Thanks, guys. One more question: How is the connection to the black tank made? Can I easily replace this 3 inch T?

Ganglin · 08-27-2009, 07:46 PM

Mike,

I'm in the middle of doing mine now except not dropping the pan at this time - later project when I get the shop built.

Couple things - the tank support bracket on yours is steel. My rear one was replaced with aluminum - something you might think about while your in there. It should have two bolts on each side - one in the welded bracket you can see at the end from the bumper area and one going thru the sides of the exposed frame (presuming that wasn't added when the support was changed to aluminum).

From inside the bumper (again presuming no change from 71 to 72) there is a steel support that runs across the top as shows in your picture. Yours looks a little less rusted than mine was. The bolts in that go up through another steel channel then into the aluminum body channel at the rear in the trunk area.

That steel channel also had rust on mine from the insulation holding moisture. To get to that one look in the trunk and the back edge should have a long narrow sheet of interior skin running across it. Should be about 6 rivets to get it out. You may want to pull that and the insulation in there to see what condition the other channel is in.

Also, when you pull the bumper off - on the right side of the of the tank tray mine had insulation back in there. If you pull that out you can look back in there and see what condition at least that end of the forward tank support is in. In mine you could tell the insulation had held moisture there also. Nothing horrible but that support was NOT changed to aluminum and will need replaced at some point.

It appears to be held in place by one bolt on each side by the bracket welded to the frame that you also have for the rear one.

While your crawling around under there - take a look at the opening for the bath vent fan. Mine has a steel "cup" in the belly skin that was rusted and about half ready to come out. I just finished repainting that and putting it back in tonight.

All I got for now - hope it helps a little.....

Tom Nugler · 08-27-2009, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mello mike

Thanks, guys. One more question: How is the connection to the black tank made? Can I easily replace this 3 inch T?

I just took a peek at the repair manual. I think you're out of luck. Both the diagram and the text don't reference any clamps.
The dump valve bolts to the tank and there is a coupler cemented between the valve and the "T". The instuctions infer that the valve can be disassembled and the coupler and T piece could then be removed.

Good Luck,
Tom.

somefun · 08-28-2009, 02:16 AM

Hi Mike,
I did a blank tank repair this summer, which involved digging into the area that you're working on. On mine (74 Overlander), the ABS pipe just slips over the outlet side of the dump valve. No glue or clamps. And I have the same no-hub(?) connectors as you. They seem to make a very good connection. I have never had any leakage. One thing to remember is that anything downstream of the dump valves is never under any pressure except when you're dumping. And I think when you remove the pan, you'll find that you have enough access to everything that you won't need to remove the bumper. It didn't even cross my mind when I was doing my repairs. Hope this helps. Good luck!
Curt