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Old 05-13-2004, 08:36 AM   #1
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A Slunky and A Sewer Hose

On our weekend trip trying out the systems on our AS, we discovered our sewer hose was riddled with tiny holes and didn't have an end on it to direct "contents" into the sewer dump, so it definitely needs replacement. We are wondering how long a sewer hose most people buy? We found everywhere from 6' to 25'. Is there a most versatile length and what issues should factor into our choice? We also noticed neighbors with "Slunky" accessories that lift the sewer hose line and keep it at an angle as it leaves the AS heading toward the sewer dump. Do you have one? How useful an add on is this? Thanks for your input!
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Old 05-13-2004, 08:44 AM   #2
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The hose length you need is directly proportionate to how far from the sewer fitting in the ground you park. Normally you have one that is 3 inches too short

I carry 2 6 footers. They have the slip couplings and I have a connector to hook them together. They also have the slip couplers that go on the sewer ends. I use them either single or dual to get the proper distance. I do not want a coiled up sewer hose on the ground for myself or others to trip on.

The Slunky is good if the in ground fitting is elevated to the point that you think you may have a problem. You do want to create a slight trap in the line to stop ALL the smells from coming back up the hose while you have it connected and the gray water valve open

Before I dump the black water I make sure I have no real dips, sharp bends or kinks. I want max flow. The slunky is really best for when you will be in one spot for a while. You will have to dump the black and want it to all drain properly.

So I would say 10 foot minimum. The 25 footer is normally overkill if you are staying in most public campgrounds.
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Old 05-13-2004, 10:33 AM   #3
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I thought there was a string, on which people were advocating 50' black water hoses. I can't find anything bigger than 20' or 25'. WASSUP? I dread the first time I do this. silver suz
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Old 05-13-2004, 11:07 AM   #4
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Nothing to it, Suz. All you do is pull the handle and, poop, it does itself! I carry two ten foot hoses. It you are close to the dump, a shorter one would be good. You don't want your hose to go too far down the dump drain. 50'!! Maybe if you are a mile from the drain!

Remember, use disposable gloves and carry a small spary bottle of bleach water to sanitize before/after.

Remember, too, black first, gray second. It you wait till the gray water is almost full, it provides a great rinse to your hose after you have dumped the black water.
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Old 05-13-2004, 11:09 AM   #5
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slunky sewer yuck!

Don't worry, Silver Suz, get rubber gloves from the drug store like I did.

I put the rubber gloves on after I opened the valve and we ran city water through the whole system and let it come out the sewer hose into the dump tank or whatever that thing is called.

Somehow I got a wash of "water" down my wrists and INSIDE those rubber gloves.

eeeeewww!

I think you need rubber gloves and something like wrist gaiters!

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Old 05-13-2004, 11:55 AM   #6
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I'm with Silver Suz.

I dread doing this the first time. What is a donut that a campground requires?
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Old 05-13-2004, 12:15 PM   #7
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Think latex

Quote:
Originally Posted by Penguin
Somehow I got a wash of "water" down my wrists and INSIDE those rubber gloves. eeeeewww!

I think you need rubber gloves and something like wrist gaiters!
Connie - get latex exam gloves - they look like surgical gloves - at your local drug store. They're cheap and fit snugly - peel em off, inside out and throw away when you're done.

Also; stow a foam kneeling pad with your sewer hose. There are almost always mystery puddles at dump sites - right where you need to kneel..... keep your knees dry!
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Old 05-13-2004, 03:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh & Nita
I dread doing this the first time. What is a donut that a campground requires?
http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...19&skunum=4496

its a foam-rubber thing-a-ma-jig that you stuff into the campground's sewer inlet pipe, then you stick the end of your slinky into it. creates a tight seal, so that the slinky doesn't suddenly pop out while you're dumping ...and it keeps sewer gasses from escaping

its really not so bad, once you get a system, and get the hang of it. It is a task, though, that does require you to be mindful.

worst experience I've had so far stems from the fact that I have an older trailer with no grey tank, which is something you won't have to worry about. I discovered that stuff comes out the shoot so fast and with so much force, it can back up into the shower pan if there's even the slightest restriction in the slinky. they don't mention this "feature" in the owner's manual. IMO, there ought to be valves in the grey water discharge lines...back-flow preventers or something.
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Old 05-13-2004, 06:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
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stuff comes out the shoot so fast and with so much force, it can back up into the shower pan
Oh, this is going to be one of those threads that I ultimately regret reading, I know it ...
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Old 05-13-2004, 07:49 PM   #10
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yeh, I understand. But you know, when it comes to this stuff, I'd rather be forewarned than unprepared and surprised!
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Old 05-13-2004, 10:31 PM   #11
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eeyeew.. I'm allergic to latex (really) are there folks in the campgrounds you can pay to have this done? Methane (sewer gas) isnt good for me either. eeeuuuuueeew. silver suz but great info to know! Good news- rv place says no dreaded rear end sag ,but the wheel brakes et al was ready to fall off (THANK YOU ,GOD) he said good thing it didnt happen on the drive to the rv place- in Dallas traffic. :0
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Old 05-14-2004, 05:59 AM   #12
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Don't like the Slinky? - Get a Macerator Pump!

Follow the link below to my installation of a macerator pump.

One of the BEST upgrades I did to the 345.

http://www.airforums.com/forum...macerator+pump

I Tee'd into the 3" common dump line, before the discharge, and after both of the Thetford valves.

I try to not travel with much waste water (I do leave some in the black water tank - I had the dreaded "non-liquid pile" in the black tank once (one too many times)).

My procedure for dumping -

1.)Hook up the macerator coupling to the discharge, open macerator dump valve.

2.)Open Black Tank valve, turn on macerator pump - change in sound of pump lets you know when black tank is empty.

3.)When Black Tank is empty, turn off pump, open Gray Water valve.

4.)After Grey and Black tanks equalize (only a second or two) - close Grey Water thetford valve. In my case (if I started with a 3/4 full grey water tank), this leaves about 15 gallons of Grey water in the Grey water tank, and 15 Gallons of Grey water in the Black Tank (consider this action as a huge flush).

5.)Now, with the Black Tank valve still open, pump the Black Tank empty again with the macerator pump.

6.)Turn off the pump, and open the Grey water Thetford valve once again to equalize the two tanks. This leaves about 7 gallons of water in each tank (the underslung 3'' discharge manifold holds a bit over a gallon).

7.)Close the Black Tank Thetford valve, and leave the 7 gallons of Grey water in the Black tank.

8.)Turn the macerator pump on, and pump the grey water tank dry.

9.)Close all valves, disconnect the screw coupling from the macerator discharge, reconnect the two couplings of the discharge hose, and stow.

I don't even see a drop of water using the above procedure, much less getting any on my hands.

I installed the 3" Tee in the discharge line when I had to remove the Black Tank Thetford valve in order to replace the slide. Prior to removing the valve, multiple flushes and washings were done until I was SURE that all solids and nasties were out of the Black Water Tank. --- I was wrong.

It's AMAZING what was left. I won't go into details here - I'll just say that some readers will want to have a service facility do this (and anticipate an extra "cleaning" charge).
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Old 05-14-2004, 06:21 AM   #13
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Macerator Pump

Good information Dennis. This is one of the upgrades I've been seriously considering. I have not done any real research yet but I was casually eyeballing the recess where the common tank connection is located and it looked like I had room to do a "permanent" mount - without sticking out beyond the trailer sidewall. I believe that I could tie in to the wiring for the dump compartment light - if it's adequate to power the pump??? Eliminating the "slinky" would be "a good thing" (---thanks Martha!) however, I just discovered that it fit nicely in the compartment behind the propane tanks. Likewise, the smaller hose would also fit this compartment. I hope that others that have installed a macerator will comment.
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Old 05-14-2004, 07:12 AM   #14
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Cracker asked about adequate wiring.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cracker
Good information Dennis. This is one of the upgrades I've been seriously considering. I have not done any real research yet but I was casually eyeballing the recess where the common tank connection is located and it looked like I had room to do a "permanent" mount - without sticking out beyond the trailer sidewall. I believe that I could tie in to the wiring for the dump compartment light - if it's adequate to power the pump??? Eliminating the "slinky" would be "a good thing" ......


I would have to say that tying into a light circuit for a pump would probably not be a good thing.

Please visit the following site for a 12 volt 5% line loss table:


http://tm.wc.ask.com/r?t=c&s=a&id=30...e.ca/loss.html


The 5% line loss is fairly aggressive. Some would only consider a 2% table, which would, on the average, cut the allowable wire lengths in half. For this reason, err on the side of the larger wire. It's important to measure the wire length as per the route it will actually be installed, including the switch routing. It's amazing how much extra length will be added when a foot here, and a couple there, are added to allow for an attractive installation.

I think that the Jabsco I used is rated at 18 amps, so the 20 amp table should be followed. Be sure to get an appropriately rated switch and overload protection for the pump. I had ran a 4 guage wire previously to feed the Air Compressor mounted in the rear of the MoHo, and was able to use that wire as a primary feed for the "occassional use" add ons installed as my customization of the unit progresses.
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