With thanks to the "75/31' valve repair" thread, here goes a slightly different effort on a mid-bath. By the way, the photo in the other thread looks like a mid-bath, too, from what I see in the repair manual, here:
I don't see any access panel and the belly pan is tucked inside the frame in a way that will make it almost impossible to remove, so my first step will be to cut an appropriate access hole, to be covered later with a new panel.
I'm lucky to have gotten the 1975 Maintenance Manual with the Sovereign. This manual covers every model and variation, which gives some hints as to where wiring, pipes, and tanks are in other 70's trailers. Woohoo, as my daughter would say.
The frame is clearly "stepped" in the photo above, but I don't see that in the drawing below. I guess I'm about to find out if the grey and black tanks are on different levels and why.
The tank drawing below matches well with the photo in the link above.
The scary/aggravating "news" from step "f" below is that the valves are glued in and must be cut out to repair. I can't wait to see if there is a better scheme for reinstalling them. Right now I only need to fix the gray valve.
Plan of attack:
1. Cut large access hole.
2. Take a long look.
3. Come back to forums and see if anyone has some good ideas.
I see the flexible hubless connector that reattaches the gray water the to sanitary wye, but what is the silvery-looking wrap that's between the termination valve and the gray tank? Did you have to cut at two places? Also, it looks like you only worked on the gray valve--is that right?
I'm trying to avoid going through the floor. Do the 3" pipes go through holes in the frame members, or under the frames? It looks like the spacing in there is very tight, so I'm concerned I'll get the belly panel open and find I have to go through the floor anyway.
By the way, I take it that you insulated the black and gray tanks yourself and maybe the silver stuff on the exit pipe from the gray tank is just insulation?
I see the flexible hubless connector that reattaches the gray water the to sanitary wye, but what is the silvery-looking wrap that's between the termination valve and the gray tank? Did you have to cut at two places? Also, it looks like you only worked on the gray valve--is that right?
Just one cut where the hubless is. The silver wrap is just foil bubble.
I did both tanks gasket kits direct from Thetford about $20
Quote:
I'm trying to avoid going through the floor. Do the 3" pipes go through holes in the frame members, or under the frames? It looks like the spacing in there is very tight, so I'm concerned I'll get the belly panel open and find I have to go through the floor anyway.
Only the one dump pipe on the right goes thru the frame.
The pipe to the grey water just fits in the cross member hole.
I'm not suggesting you cut the floor its just at that point in my restoration it worked out. I'm showing that view so you can figure where to cut access hole(s).
You may just want to cut one large one then get the same guage metal to make a larger cover plate and use self tappers to replace.
Quote:
By the way, I take it that you insulated the black and gray tanks yourself and maybe the silver stuff on the exit pipe from the gray tank is just insulation?
Yes that's correct!
__________________
Bob
'77 Sovereign Intl 31' CB '07 GMC 4x4 2500HD EC 8.1 Allision six | Bedrug | Softopper
WBCCI Time's a-changing Say no to Lawrence Welk attitudes
Just one cut where the hubless is. The silver wrap is just foil bubble.
...
Excellent. I take it that making that one cut allows the downstream side of the gray valve to move and the longer wye on the downstream side of the black valve has some movement through the frame, so you can then disassemble it, too?
I guess I'll get in there tomorrow or the weekend.
Zep; The silver is the outer wrap of a no hub coupling (3"). Being a plumber by trade it would seem this would be a routine repair for me. But i am not familiar with the A.S. access. Re:The (glued) or cemented joint that you said needs to be cut out. We often separate or remove hubs from joints by heating them with a heat gun, scoring a cut lengthwise and pealing the hub off of the pipe. There are also other repair joints that utilize a rubber sleeve and hose clamps usually called Fernco coupling which is a brand name. They are longer and more pliable and depending on the application they may each have advantages. If I get to mine I will let you know how it goes. Good luck
Phil
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