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Old 03-25-2009, 12:48 PM   #1
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67' Caravel Dump Valve Replacement 18706

I'm wanting to replace my dump valve on my 67' Caravel. I've noticed between the dump valve and the tank there is a mouting flange that I guess the 4 valve screws mate into. The four screws on my dump valve are very corroded and rusted badly one of the screws barely even has a head left. Does the mounting flange it screws into have metal inserts or threads it screws into or is it plastic threads. I would hate to strip one out. I might have to grind the head off to be able to get the valve out but will I be able to remove the rest of the screw. I'm sure someone out there has run into this and might have a good suggestion.
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Old 03-25-2009, 01:07 PM   #2
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Steven,

Is your dump valve a Brass Thetford Valve? I know mine is on my '61 Overlander. I rebuilt my dump valve & it works fine now. But, if you want to update it, this link may help;

Restoration resources-Thetford Dump Valve
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Old 03-25-2009, 01:20 PM   #3
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I bought the rebuild kit for the 68 Caravel direct from the company, nice people. If you get the kit it may help. Seems it was very reasonable priced. I think the flange on the tank was metal but I am not sure.
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Old 03-25-2009, 02:01 PM   #4
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No mine is just the plastic dump valve type......... I'm more curious about being able to get the rusty screws out without creating more problems.
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Old 03-25-2009, 02:22 PM   #5
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No mine is just the plastic dump valve type......... I'm more curious about being able to get the rusty screws out without creating more problems.
The mounting flange is all plastic. You must be careful when you tighten the screws so that you do not strip the threads. But if you do, new flanges are available.

Since you only got 42 years of service from the original valve, replacing it is far more prudent than a rebuild.
Rebuilds won't begin to last that long, assuming the rebuild ordeal went ok.

Andy
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Old 03-25-2009, 02:23 PM   #6
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Not sure about the '67, but on my '63, there is a brass casting that is fiberglassed into the bottom of the tank. That casting has 4 threaded holes tapped into it, to accept the 4 threaded rods that come up from the valve assembly.

Mine were rusted and broken off, but since I have the black tank out of the coach during a major renovation, I was able to take it to a local machine shop and have them remove the screws and clean up the tapped holes in the casting.

For pictures, feel free to check out my blog linked below in my pictures, this was all done about 3 or 4 posts ago, or roughly a month ago.

Good luck!

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Old 03-25-2009, 05:47 PM   #7
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So Andy if the plastic flange has threads in it for attaching the valve too..........then whats holding the plastic flange to the holding tank? Is there more screws I just dont see covered up by the valve?
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Old 03-25-2009, 06:00 PM   #8
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I opened up your blog utee by there are no pictures coming up.
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Old 03-25-2009, 06:12 PM   #9
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So Andy if the plastic flange has threads in it for attaching the valve too..........then whats holding the plastic flange to the holding tank? Is there more screws I just dont see covered up by the valve?
The plastic flange is made with no threads for the screws.

The threads are made in the flange, the first time the screws are inserted.

Your flange should be held into the plastic tank, with a clamp.

Releasing that clamp, would allow the flange to come off.

On the output side of the valve, there should be what is called a collector, where the gray water enters on the side of it. It may be cracked. If so, we can repair them as there is no replacement.

Andy
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Old 03-25-2009, 10:41 PM   #10
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Well maybe the rusty old screws won't be so hard to get out after all even if I have to grind some of the heads off because there's not much metal left on a couple of the screws. The last time I checked plastic don't rust so should be able to get them out with pliers or vise grips after removing valve. Thanks.
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Old 03-26-2009, 09:06 AM   #11
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I'm assuming if when I get all this off I'll have to cut the tub drain pipe maybe about 6" back then put a rubber coupler on it to reattach it.
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Old 03-26-2009, 10:11 AM   #12
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I'm assuming if when I get all this off I'll have to cut the tub drain pipe maybe about 6" back then put a rubber coupler on it to reattach it.
Correct.

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Old 04-06-2009, 09:20 AM   #13
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Well I got it off in one piece without messing anything up. Had to grind a few of the rusted head bolts off but then was able to remove the remaining with the valve out of the way with a pair of vise grips.
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Old 04-11-2009, 08:30 AM   #14
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I purchased a new thetford valve for my 65 safari and cannot find a wye fitting to match the old one..I'm thinking cut off the old valve and grind out the leftover pipe left inside. Any Ideas? Also what fiberglass repair material for a small leak where the flange mounts to the tank.
The old valve had three metal devices to hold the valve to the wye. are they necessary?The new valve is all plastic and the old had a metal face.
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