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Old 06-13-2007, 01:40 PM   #15
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here are some pics of my valve.. don't know if it's original or not.
i am not sure if it leaks. i'll have to put some water in there and see.
probably does. sink and shower grey water just goes straight out i guess...
i do have an original cast aluminum 90 degree elbow connector for this.

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Old 06-13-2007, 06:52 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1963gt
here are some pics of my valve.. don't know if it's original or not.
i am not sure if it leaks. i'll have to put some water in there and see.
probably does. sink and shower grey water just goes straight out i guess...
i do have an original cast aluminum 90 degree elbow connector for this.

comments?
That valve was obsolete over 40 years ago.

The fix is easy.

Remove the vale and all of it's associated parts.

Fiberglass a new Thetford outlet flange to the fiberglass tank.

From there, you can configure the drain system most any way you want to.

Andy
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Old 06-13-2007, 10:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
That valve was obsolete over 40 years ago.

The fix is easy.

Remove the vale and all of it's associated parts.

Fiberglass a new Thetford outlet flange to the fiberglass tank.

From there, you can configure the drain system most any way you want to.

Andy
i can't bolt it on like the old?
i haven't done fiberglass.. (yet)
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Old 06-20-2007, 03:40 PM   #18
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Great pictures

Great pictures of the valve, looks like the old one just bolts into the tank with a gasket between it and the tank. Is that the case? if so why can't you just fiberglass the holes( very easy with some of the marine products available) , use a Valterra fitting ( they have some that would bolt on) redrill it, bolt it on and plumb it from there? I'm with you fiberglass products are expensive and can be tricky to work with. Anyone out there done what I am thinking about? How did you do it?

I'm sure Andy's method is very good, but after 28 years in the firefighting business I have learned that there are often multiple solutions to solving a problem and getting a good result.
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Old 06-29-2007, 10:28 PM   #19
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The valve rebuild is done

Just finished the rebuild of my original brass Thetford dump valve and it was not that hard to do. Put Kano on all the screws and everything came apart easily. I did have to cut one of the grey lines (which I later reconnected with a Fernco ) to get the valve out. This valve is industrial strength and other than a good cleaning ,some new O rings , and resealing to the tank it was good to go. I had no problem getting the O ring after I visited one of the industrial supply houses in our area with the valve and used the magic words "this is off my old Airstream" . The guy even gave me a great tip about using a little contact cement to keep the O ring in place during assembly. I could not find a seal to go between the valve and tank but a 98 cent tub of plumbers putty solved that problem and will make the valve easy to remove in the future ( no silicone to get off). All I have left to do is put the belly pan piece back in place. It's good to have a place to store my used beer again.
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Old 09-06-2011, 01:12 AM   #20
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during testing, my black tank holds water just fine, but when I pull the rod to drain I get leakage from the side belly in front of the valve. Is that what this thread is about or something different?
thx, jay
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