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Old 09-22-2007, 06:54 PM   #1
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1963 22' Safari
Sandia Park , New Mexico
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1963 Safari Black Water Tank

Hello All,

I have a bit of a dillema with my black water tank. I yanked it out and did a quick leak test on it and found some leaks around the dump valve. It kinda looks like the dump valve got pushed up some which cracked the tank.

The funny thing is that the bottom of the tank looks like fibreglass. The top of the tank is smooth and I'm assuming that it is ABS, but am not sure. Anyone know if Airstreams ever used fibreglass black water tanks?

Any suggestions on a replacement tank or can I actually repair this tank?

Thanks
Steve
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Old 09-22-2007, 08:42 PM   #2
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The black tank on my 1961 Safari is fiberglass. It can be repaired with polyester resin and glass cloth or, for a better fix, using epoxy resin with the glass cloth. It would not be difficult or expensive to make a permanent repair.
Sam
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Old 10-01-2007, 10:30 AM   #3
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1963 22' Safari
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steve or sam-
could you please tell me where the black water tank is? and where is the spot the it emptys from? and would either of you know anything about the fan in the skylight and how to turn it on? thanks a bunch-summitsmum
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Old 10-01-2007, 10:50 AM   #4
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You can buy a new tank, or you can have the tank from my 68 safari (If it will fit).

Just need to figure out how to get it in your hands since I am in MO.

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Old 10-01-2007, 09:29 PM   #5
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summitsmum-
My blackwater tank sits on top of the floor and directly under the toilet. It empties out the bottom of the tank under the trailer near the back on the curb side (yours might be on the street side). The control to open the valve is a square rod with a "T" handle located outside just below floor level almost directly behind the toilet.

The fan in my skylight is operated by a switch on the ceiling next to the skylight. It runs on 110 volts. Mine would not turn when I first tried it-- only buzzed. I figured I had nothing to lose so I took the motor apart, cleaned and lubricated it, put it back together, and it now works great.
Hope this helps.
Sam
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Old 10-05-2007, 09:18 AM   #6
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My blackwater tank is also on the floor with the toilet sitting on top. My tank is on the streetside and the dump valve is almost directly under the toilet. When I removed the toilet, the valve was open, so I could see the ground.

The vent in my trailer worked with a flip of the switch. My problem is that the lid doesn't stay on, so I've tied it down for hte moment. My lid problem has to do with the way the lid is attached to the retractors. It isn't


Anyone have suggestions for rebuilding/replacing the dump valve?
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Old 10-05-2007, 12:10 PM   #7
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1967 22' Safari
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sdiddy

Do you have the Thetford 01447 Slide-ez valve? I just rebuilt mine in a 67 Safari. A re-build kit is available that comes with the back plate and other seals. The inside slide valve has to be in pretty good condition, however, or it won't seal right. I put mine on a very solid, flat surface with a layer of soft scrub cleanser and lightly rubbed the sealing surface of the valve very clean and smooth. Works like a charm, now. Leaked like a sieve before. Your black tank set-up is way different than mine, though. I had to take the tank, etc. down to get to the valve.
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Old 10-06-2007, 10:16 AM   #8
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I'm not sure what model I have. How does one tell? Does your valve pull or rotate to use? I think mine rotates, but will have to check.

THanks
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Old 10-08-2007, 07:16 AM   #9
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Thetford valve

I've probably wasted your time. My valve slides. The numbers on my valve were visible from the exterior plate. I'm really to new at this to know anything except what I have. By the way, are you native to the Sandia Park or Albuquerque area? I'm from there...even though that was in 1971.
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Old 10-08-2007, 07:34 AM   #10
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"I've probably wasted your time."

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Old 10-08-2007, 07:40 AM   #11
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Picture worth a thousand words....

Hey Fellas - can't give you any serial numbers or names cause I have no clue!

But this is the valve - original at the base of our black tank. our valve is toast and we are replacing it with all new.
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The tank - is fiberglass and the smooth top would be what is called Gelcoat.
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The tank is very repairable - whether cracked in the bottom or top. If you are removing the bottom valve then you can even change out the top toilet seal to work with newer toilets without having to purchase expensive sealand adapter rings.

You can (if inclined) even add sensors.

Our 61 tank sorry no pics - I suspect does not have the gelcoat top as there are the old asbestos tiles covering it....

An odd notation - why in 63 did they have a nice cream tub and yet colour the toilet base a taupe gelcoat??? must be a guy thing

Anyway hope this helps some - with the pictures - we will post our retrofits once completed on our "Flight of the LadyBug" thread...
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Old 10-22-2007, 10:16 PM   #12
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1963 22' Safari
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Sam- you rock!! thanks for the advice. i will execute asap.
would you know about replacing the windows?-summitsmum
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Old 10-23-2007, 05:52 AM   #13
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Summitsmum, are you needing to refurbish your windows or replace? if you are refurbishing them, I can help you. I have rebuilt every window on my 1962... all new glass, seals, and gaskets, even new operators. I only have to do the jalouse at this point. I recommend you contact Vintage Trailer Supply, they have everything you will need and their service is great.
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Old 10-24-2007, 09:40 AM   #14
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1961 22' Safari
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Summitsmum--
All my glass was intact, but leaked and was ready to fall out. I removed all the glass, cleaned up the frames, then replaced the glass with new seals and gaskets. I, too, recommend Vintage Trailer Supply. My trailer is a "transitional" model (between designs) and they helped me figure out what gasket was correct for the frames and the material was #1 in quality. Since the repair, the trailer has weathered some very severe rain and wind with no leaks. Do not use any silicone, it is bad news on any trailer. The seals and gaskets from VTS are all that is needed.
Seems like you are a neighbor, being only 275 miles away!
Good luck with the project.
Sam
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Old 10-24-2007, 09:50 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
....... I have rebuilt every window on my 1962... all new glass, seals, and gaskets, even new operators. .
when you speak of the operators - did you take them apart to rebuild them - or buy the new ones from VTS..

I have a couple in the LB that when wound to just close to being closed they seem stripped and will not draw the window in.....I seem to remember reading somewhere that someone restored the inside of the crank and worked on the cog wheel inside - but I would not have a clue how to do that and would need special "tapp" tools to get them apart and put them back together right????

The gasket material from VTS is top notch and a must for the older windows - we have sealed up our 63 too and had torrential rains on her with not a drip to be found phew!!! When we got her she leaked like a sive...

It was also worth the extra money in having all new glass too - as the old stuff was etched and scratched over the years.... Now I must work on the screens.....
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Old 10-24-2007, 11:35 AM   #16
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I replaced the operaters with the ones from Vintage Trailer Supply. They are not as beefy as the original Herh, but they work. I sold the originals on ebay and someone is going to try refurbishing them. I have only one window left to do, and one has to be redone, that durafix aluminum weld stuff does not work. I am having an professional welder fix it right. I have the jalouise window to rebuild also, but it works fine and does not leak. Each window takes me about 6 hours now that I have a system. Most of the time is cleaning the corrosion off the frames. I tried to chronical how I did it in my blog. Getting the seal that holds the glass, getting that to go into the grooves... well, lets say that takes a lot of practice. But now they open and close, seal up tight with no leaks, and they look sweet with the new rubber and glass.
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Old 10-24-2007, 11:48 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
well, lets say that takes a lot of practice. But now they open and close, seal up tight with no leaks, and they look sweet with the new rubber and glass.
Must need a womans touch After the first window - I figured that both of the gaskets were really easy - but just fiddly.... the window frame one being much harder that the inside shell gasket - I used a screen rolling tool - placed just right on an angle it pops that gasket right into the track - instead of trying to use some sort of knife that does not roll - (that is what I used to begin with was a kitchen knife - Handle part) After a while that got old so I needed to think of something else - then the little light came on. Feed the one part into the track for position then roll it in the rest of the way....Could have used a bit of the "Male" strength in the fingers but I managed.

The do look great once all finished.

In looking at your inner gaskets I noticed that you cut them - I was able to feed them in in one continuous piece - with the bend at the corners - this does not allow any water to seap through the corners the joining ends are at the top back corner of the window - where the least exposure to water (underway) would be....

We too have a broken corner weld and was thinking of using the JB Weld system - If we have to take that window out again we will have to remove the door drip rail - as that is how we think this weld broke by putting too much stress on it taking the window in and out. Something people should note when removing windows - that most times many of the trim pieces were put on AFTER the windows were in place..... We could slide it the other way but the windows are not perfectly lined up and thus would still put the extra stress on the window sliding it through off centre per se.

Now I just need the new door gaskets - do I have to get them from VTS or is the an auto gasket that would suffice??? anyone know for the 63 door in door.....
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Old 11-04-2007, 12:10 PM   #18
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1963 22' Safari
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Removing bottom valve; seals and sensors

From a previous post:
"The tank is very repairable - whether cracked in the bottom or top. If you are removing the bottom valve then you can even change out the top toilet seal to work with newer toilets without having to purchase expensive sealand adapter rings.

You can (if inclined) even add sensors.
"


My valve looks like the one in the pic. Any idea how to remove the valve? I heard somethng about the valve being threaded onto a pile glasses to the tank. Is that true?

I do plan to put in a new toilet. Do you have details on replacing the top seal?

What kind of sensors are you talking about. One to tell me if the black water tank is full?

BTW, We just moved to Sandia Park 18 months ago. It's changed a lot since 1971!

Thanks
Steve
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Old 12-01-2007, 01:51 PM   #19
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1960 Safari dump valve.

I have a 1960 safari that is missing the dump valve. The valve has been replaced by a 3" iron pipe 4-way fitting, with the gray water lines attached near the outlet. There is no way to hold anything in the tank.

I noticed the post by GT1963 had pictures of a setup that looked like what I guess mine looked like in it's original condition.

Did anybody find where to get the valve? My gray water lines from the shower and bathroom sink enter the fitting below the level of the tank. Is this right? It looks to me like this would cause waste in the tank to back up into the gray lines.
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Old 12-14-2007, 11:12 AM   #20
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Gray water lines

The gray water lines are below the dump valve because the gray water used to just dump on the ground on the older trailers.
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