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Old 10-24-2007, 10:50 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
....... I have rebuilt every window on my 1962... all new glass, seals, and gaskets, even new operators. .
when you speak of the operators - did you take them apart to rebuild them - or buy the new ones from VTS..

I have a couple in the LB that when wound to just close to being closed they seem stripped and will not draw the window in.....I seem to remember reading somewhere that someone restored the inside of the crank and worked on the cog wheel inside - but I would not have a clue how to do that and would need special "tapp" tools to get them apart and put them back together right????

The gasket material from VTS is top notch and a must for the older windows - we have sealed up our 63 too and had torrential rains on her with not a drip to be found phew!!! When we got her she leaked like a sive...

It was also worth the extra money in having all new glass too - as the old stuff was etched and scratched over the years.... Now I must work on the screens.....
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Old 10-24-2007, 12:35 PM   #16
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I replaced the operaters with the ones from Vintage Trailer Supply. They are not as beefy as the original Herh, but they work. I sold the originals on ebay and someone is going to try refurbishing them. I have only one window left to do, and one has to be redone, that durafix aluminum weld stuff does not work. I am having an professional welder fix it right. I have the jalouise window to rebuild also, but it works fine and does not leak. Each window takes me about 6 hours now that I have a system. Most of the time is cleaning the corrosion off the frames. I tried to chronical how I did it in my blog. Getting the seal that holds the glass, getting that to go into the grooves... well, lets say that takes a lot of practice. But now they open and close, seal up tight with no leaks, and they look sweet with the new rubber and glass.
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Old 10-24-2007, 12:48 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
well, lets say that takes a lot of practice. But now they open and close, seal up tight with no leaks, and they look sweet with the new rubber and glass.
Must need a womans touch After the first window - I figured that both of the gaskets were really easy - but just fiddly.... the window frame one being much harder that the inside shell gasket - I used a screen rolling tool - placed just right on an angle it pops that gasket right into the track - instead of trying to use some sort of knife that does not roll - (that is what I used to begin with was a kitchen knife - Handle part) After a while that got old so I needed to think of something else - then the little light came on. Feed the one part into the track for position then roll it in the rest of the way....Could have used a bit of the "Male" strength in the fingers but I managed.

The do look great once all finished.

In looking at your inner gaskets I noticed that you cut them - I was able to feed them in in one continuous piece - with the bend at the corners - this does not allow any water to seap through the corners the joining ends are at the top back corner of the window - where the least exposure to water (underway) would be....

We too have a broken corner weld and was thinking of using the JB Weld system - If we have to take that window out again we will have to remove the door drip rail - as that is how we think this weld broke by putting too much stress on it taking the window in and out. Something people should note when removing windows - that most times many of the trim pieces were put on AFTER the windows were in place..... We could slide it the other way but the windows are not perfectly lined up and thus would still put the extra stress on the window sliding it through off centre per se.

Now I just need the new door gaskets - do I have to get them from VTS or is the an auto gasket that would suffice??? anyone know for the 63 door in door.....
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Old 11-04-2007, 01:10 PM   #18
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Removing bottom valve; seals and sensors

From a previous post:
"The tank is very repairable - whether cracked in the bottom or top. If you are removing the bottom valve then you can even change out the top toilet seal to work with newer toilets without having to purchase expensive sealand adapter rings.

You can (if inclined) even add sensors.
"


My valve looks like the one in the pic. Any idea how to remove the valve? I heard somethng about the valve being threaded onto a pile glasses to the tank. Is that true?

I do plan to put in a new toilet. Do you have details on replacing the top seal?

What kind of sensors are you talking about. One to tell me if the black water tank is full?

BTW, We just moved to Sandia Park 18 months ago. It's changed a lot since 1971!

Thanks
Steve
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Old 12-01-2007, 02:51 PM   #19
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1960 Safari dump valve.

I have a 1960 safari that is missing the dump valve. The valve has been replaced by a 3" iron pipe 4-way fitting, with the gray water lines attached near the outlet. There is no way to hold anything in the tank.

I noticed the post by GT1963 had pictures of a setup that looked like what I guess mine looked like in it's original condition.

Did anybody find where to get the valve? My gray water lines from the shower and bathroom sink enter the fitting below the level of the tank. Is this right? It looks to me like this would cause waste in the tank to back up into the gray lines.
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Old 12-14-2007, 12:12 PM   #20
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Gray water lines

The gray water lines are below the dump valve because the gray water used to just dump on the ground on the older trailers.
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Old 12-14-2007, 03:23 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pauly g
I have a 1960 safari that is missing the dump valve. The valve has been replaced by a 3" iron pipe 4-way fitting, with the gray water lines attached near the outlet. There is no way to hold anything in the tank.

I noticed the post by GT1963 had pictures of a setup that looked like what I guess mine looked like in it's original condition.

Did anybody find where to get the valve? My gray water lines from the shower and bathroom sink enter the fitting below the level of the tank. Is this right? It looks to me like this would cause waste in the tank to back up into the gray lines.
The original brass valve has not been available for 40 years.

A mounting flange is fiberglassed on to the bottom of your fiberglass tank.

Then the apropriate Thetford valve can simply be attached to it.

Andy
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Old 01-08-2008, 10:55 PM   #22
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Speaking of Black Tanks for a 63.....any suggestions or good recommendation of a place to get custom design tanks.

We have not started on our black tank yet - and Peter is really liking the new 08 Safari sport Bathroom layouts and thinks he would like to step up and put a whole new bathroom in to match the new sealand toile and SS sink we bought

Okay so I sort of dropped the idea on him...At first I was trying to convince him to buy one - yes a new one on that $299.00/$299.00 deal - but then we have more weigh carrying capacity in our 63 GT - and she is in the middle between the two models.

Next I need to find out if the shower units are available for aftermarket purchase from Airstream Inc - and the damage $$$. The exact dimensions and if they would fit and how we could modify to compensate for the 63 back window...anything can be done if you have the imagination right???

Any help on the black tanks and new shower stall would be very much appreciated.
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Old 01-08-2008, 11:06 PM   #23
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I meant to post these pics a while back on this thread...

We have not done it yet - but Peter thought this was the best adaption to use. We thought of cutting the original glassed in connector but then decided not to - new holes could be drilled into the ABS and then screw to the existing mount, as well as being glassed in for a perfect water tight seal and strength.
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He was then going to have anothe ABS part cemented that carries the grey to a dump valve seperate of the black dump valve. We have no grey tank and do not intend on putting one in. We ran with a blue Buddy with the 69 for 3 years and never had a problem.... We have a low profile BB with a side valve that we can hook up anytime - the low profile fits right under the trailer so out of sight out of mind for other campers that is.
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