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Old 08-23-2009, 10:44 PM   #1
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1978 23' Safari
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What is this valve called. -'78 safari

When connect to public water, I have a constant leak out of the fresh water exterior drain tube. If I block the tube at the outlet, the water will start to pool up on top of this valve where the label is (see image).

I already have a pressure regulator before the water get to this valve. I am guessing that this valve is to relieve excess pressure in the fresh water line. I think the valve is allowing water to trickle out even though the pressure is not that high.

I believe this is an internal pressure release valve but after an hour of Googling, I cannot find a replacement part. Does anyone one know what it is called or where I can get a replacement part?


This is a 78 sarafi with pex plumbing.
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Old 08-24-2009, 01:54 AM   #2
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mighty strange, indeed...

first, our 78 has all copper tubing piping, so I would assume a PO has installed the Pex tubing...

He must have seen some need to install another pressure relief valve...does this valve connect to the water heater piping in some way....

If you have a pressure relief valve at the inlet of the outside water piping, I can't see the need for another one...

Big mystery, indeed...
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Old 08-24-2009, 04:33 AM   #3
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It definately appears to be a pressure relief valve. The appearance, plus the "Set at" langauge printed in red on face.

Not sure where the best place to purchase one for RV duty is, but I would think that this is an "Off the Shelf" item that is readily available

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Old 08-24-2009, 03:07 PM   #4
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I put the pex in myself and I just duplicated the copper lines that were already there. I reused this valve in the same location as it was set when the copper was used.

My only other guess is that there was a possibility that the hot water line could get over pressurized but not hot enough to trigger the pressure relief valve on the hot water heater.
This might lead to high pressure hot water beibg release into the fresh water system or, the fresh water pump might over pressurize the fresh water system. Either case might make a pressure relief valve necessary.

At any rate, I'll cut it out and take it to an RV supply store to see if they have a replacement.
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Old 08-24-2009, 04:12 PM   #5
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On second look, it does just like a right-angle standard type pressure relief valve...maybe a home water heater dealer might have such an item...or you could get asimilar valve that has the 'release lever' on the top...

Can you unscrew the 'cap' of the relief valve? If so, perhaps you can just replace the worn washer/valve seat that's allowing the leak on the inside...or maybe there's just some 'crud' inside that's allowing the bypass of water - a good cleaning might cure it - 'IF' you can get it apart...

Still can't figure why you'd have two relief valves - or maybe the other one is just a 'check valve' in the supply line, and not actually a 'pressure regulator' valve, and so this one is put into place to releave any high pressure in the event the other valve fails...kind of a NASA, back-up system to keep you safe from that 'Houston, we have a problem', syndrome...
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Old 08-24-2009, 04:21 PM   #6
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Is the red valve a water drain also? If so, I see no reason for the Pressure relief valve in that that portion of the system. I would take the pressure relief and drain out and then replace the portion of line that the pressure relief valve interrupted.

I can almost understand why it is there. If the pressure regulator failed it would relieve excess line pressure.
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Old 08-26-2009, 12:36 PM   #7
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yes, the red valve is a drain valve.
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Old 08-26-2009, 01:20 PM   #8
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Does anyone know if this could be a back flow prevention devise or an air relief valve?
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Old 08-26-2009, 01:54 PM   #9
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A back flow preventer would be a check valve at the city water inlet and the pump outlet.
An air relief valve would have to be in the highest point of the water system.

I would simply remove the pressure relief valve and drain, and replace it with a single piece of pex

Kip
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Old 08-26-2009, 02:09 PM   #10
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I just spoke to Jim, at Jackson Center...after describing the part to him, he told me it's a water pressure regulator...doesn't seem like it, but that's what he said...I read what was written on the cap to him, and that was his answer.

Because of the "set to 125lbs", it seems more like a pressure relief valve to me, but what do I know?
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Old 08-26-2009, 02:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
I can almost understand why it is there. If the pressure regulator failed it would relieve excess line pressure.
Its that, plus (I think) that the short run of copper pipes in a TT can't absorb the pressure created by the water heater, like the long long run of pipes in a house. Seems to me that they stopped putting these in at the factory when they stopped using copper and switched to more flexible plastics.

I think mine was the source of a very slight leak, in hindsight. I had a burst pipe that I had to repair, and in the process of replacing things w/ pex, I had to forgo putting the pop-off valve back in. (no room). Up until this, my water pump would kick on every 5-10 minutes, if I left it on. Before that, I had a failed check valve that would make it come on every few seconds, but replacing that never seemed to completely solve the problem. Now, with the pop-off removed, and a new check valve, the pump doesn't come on unless a faucet is opened. When the faucet is closed, it shuts down promptly, and abruptly, with no sputtering or stuttering, like it has done in the past.
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Old 09-08-2009, 05:28 PM   #12
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Thank everyone for the feedback. I cut the pex and removed the valve. It is a pressure relief valve (Not temperature related), There is spring and fitting inside the valve that block the water flow. It will let water through if water pressure exceeds the spring pressure. After removing the valve and blocking both ends, the leak is gone. BTW I used pex pressure couplings as flow blockers these are like the shark bite fittings for copper except made of plastic. The normal Pex copper bands require alot of room in order to use the crimp tool and I had no space for that. These fittings saved me from having to pull out the entire bathroom to fix the leak.

As long as my pex does not explode due to too much water pressure, I think I am ok. The pressure regulator should reduce the pressure enough to stay within the specs for pex. I ran my fresh water pump for several minuts to build pressure but still no leaks. woohoo! ...for now anyway.
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Old 09-08-2009, 06:49 PM   #13
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It definitely is a PRV. I removed mine because I had a steady stream out the drain tube. I havent found a replacement yet, of course I havent really looked in while either lol
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Old 12-01-2009, 07:06 AM   #14
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It is my understanding that the relief valve is there to control the pressure created in cases where the temperature rises as a result of extreme air temperature increase. So as it is not related to the water heater, it is related to temperature. Basically a steam relief valve.
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