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04-08-2006, 08:13 AM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Collettsville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 180
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Water valve help
Hello all,
I had a check valve to go bad so I took out all my inlet water parts on my 1979 Argosy. I removed the inlet, the water pressure valve, the check valve and all the old copper pipe all the way to the pex line. I need to know what kind of water regulator I should put back in the coach. Most I have found in the camping mags are the small in-line water regulators. The regulator I took out was the house type with the pressure adjuster nut on the top. The smaller in-line regulator would be easier to install in the space but, would it work as well as the larger house type adjuster model? What do you folks suggest? Also I would appreciate your tips for re-installing all this stuff.
Thanks,
mtnman
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04-08-2006, 08:21 AM
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#2
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418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnman
Hello all,
I had a check valve to go bad so I took out all my inlet water parts on my 1979 Argosy. I removed the inlet, the water pressure valve, the check valve and all the old copper pipe all the way to the pex line. I need to know what kind of water regulator I should put back in the coach. Most I have found in the camping mags are the small in-line water regulators. The regulator I took out was the house type with the pressure adjuster nut on the top. The smaller in-line regulator would be easier to install in the space but, would it work as well as the larger house type adjuster model? What do you folks suggest? Also I would appreciate your tips for re-installing all this stuff.
Thanks,
mtnman
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Can you put the original one back in? Is it bad?
You might have to go to an RV speciaty store other than camping world to find a suitable new regulator. I found one on e-bay a few years ago and bought it for my Overlander project, but have not seen one for sale since.
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04-08-2006, 10:58 AM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Collettsville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 180
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uwe,
I never looked at the old adjustable pressure valve real close, I just assumed it needed to be replaced along with the worn out check valve. I figured the old pressure valve that came in the coach could be easily replaced with one of equal or better service from HD or lowes. Am I wrong in thinking this? What would be the difference in a new one?
mtnman
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04-08-2006, 12:42 PM
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#4
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Collettsville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 180
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How do I check my old regulator?
mtnman
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04-08-2006, 03:31 PM
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#5
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418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnman
uwe,
I never looked at the old adjustable pressure valve real close, I just assumed it needed to be replaced along with the worn out check valve. I figured the old pressure valve that came in the coach could be easily replaced with one of equal or better service from HD or lowes. Am I wrong in thinking this? What would be the difference in a new one?
mtnman
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Well size, for one thing. The home style pressure regulators are huge, and are designed for a whole house system. RV pressure regulators are much smaller, designed for smaller input and output threads, so that a sensible installation is easy to do. There might be a flow and volume mismatch from one to the other, but I am not an expert at that.
You do not really need an internal regulator as long as you always use one at the hookup tap outside the trailer.
City water inlets often have the check valve built in. The overpressure valve can be eliminated if it drips with normally regulated water pressure.
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04-08-2006, 03:32 PM
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#6
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418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnman
How do I check my old regulator?
mtnman
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Mock up a hose hookup, and connect it to high pressure, and watch what happens at the output.
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04-08-2006, 05:03 PM
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#7
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Collettsville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
Mock up a hose hookup, and connect it to high pressure, and watch what happens at the output.
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OK, I will try that tomorrow.
mtnman
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04-08-2006, 08:31 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
2001 34' Limited S/O
Moyock
, North Carolina
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,010
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the way to do it is to put a pressure gage on each side of the regulator. This way you can see the difference in pressure. Most of the in-line regulators are preset at 40 psig. Putting a higher pressure on the inlet side and watching the outlet is a pratical way of doing the same job only problem is you may be watching a drop in flow not a drop in pressure.
__________________
Keep the shiny side up.
WBCCI # 348
Past Region 3 President
Past President Tidewater Unit 111
Rick Bell in "Silverbell"
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04-08-2006, 09:16 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
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If you use an in-line regulator at the start of the hose connection at the supply spigot you will not need any other regulator. They come factory set at 40-50 psi, or you can buy an adjustable one. This way, you save your hose AND the coach plumbing from excessive pressure.
You might also check into the newer high flow types that give you more volume at the set pressure.
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
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04-09-2006, 09:27 AM
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#10
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Collettsville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 180
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40-50 psi would be a plenty for us.
mtnman
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04-09-2006, 04:52 PM
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#11
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Collettsville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 180
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OK, it looks like my regulator is fine. I have decided to keep it. The only thing I need to buy is a compression coupler to adapt the PVC to the pex. Store is 20 miles out of the mountains so it may be a couple of days. Every thing else looks good and is all glued together and ready to go into the coach.
mtnman
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04-12-2006, 05:27 AM
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#12
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Collettsville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 180
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what is this?
Look at this picture and tell me what the valve in the lower right corner next to the heating duct is for?
mtnman
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04-12-2006, 06:25 AM
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#13
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418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
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That's an pressure relief valve. It pops open when the water pressure somehow exceeds a certain value, and releases the pressure through a hose through the floor of the trailer to the outside.
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04-12-2006, 11:41 AM
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#14
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Collettsville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 180
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I thought that it may be that but was not sure, it looks a lot like a water heater pressure valve. I am not going to put that back in the coach, it was leaking.
I need to know how to turn down the pressure on the water regulator. Do you loosen the lock nut and then turn the valve screw in/right/clockwise or do you loosen the lock nut and turn the valve screw out/left/counterclockwise?
Thanks
mtnman
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04-12-2006, 01:31 PM
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#15
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Patriotic
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston
, Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnman
I thought that it may be that but was not sure, it looks a lot like a water heater pressure valve. I am not going to put that back in the coach, it was leaking.
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well...that's what it is supposed to do...IF there's too much pressure somewhere. might be functioning normally. or it could be broken. just leaving the system pressurized, with the hot water heater on, and not opening a tap for some time (like you might do if you were to turn on the water heater while the rig is in your back yard, and then forget to turn it off, and it sits there running for days or weeks) could cause enough pressure to build in the lines, and trigger this device.
__________________
Air:291
Wbcci: 3752
'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
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04-12-2006, 05:05 PM
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#16
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Collettsville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
well...that's what it is supposed to do...IF there's too much pressure somewhere. might be functioning normally. or it could be broken. just leaving the system pressurized, with the hot water heater on, and not opening a tap for some time (like you might do if you were to turn on the water heater while the rig is in your back yard, and then forget to turn it off, and it sits there running for days or weeks) could cause enough pressure to build in the lines, and trigger this device.
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It was leaking out water from the 12 volt pump pressure. The 12 volt pump was kicking off and on is how I found out it was bad.
I still need to know how to adjust that water regulator?
mtnman
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04-12-2006, 05:25 PM
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#17
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Frank S
1973 27' Overlander
peoria
, Illinois
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 316
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Hi mtman--Toss out the old pressure regulator. You will eliminate a lot of potential problems. Go to WalMart and buy a Marshall regulator for $8. in their RV section. Install it on your city water supply, connect one end of your hose to the regulator, and the other end to your trailer.--Frank S
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04-12-2006, 05:30 PM
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#18
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Frank S
1973 27' Overlander
peoria
, Illinois
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 316
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Hi mtman--Forgot to mention the Marshall regulator is preset for about 45psi, which is exactly what your Argosy needs.--Frank S
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04-12-2006, 05:31 PM
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#19
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Collettsville
, North Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 180
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Frank,
I just re-installed the old one, it works fine. I also have a small hose type Marshall regulator if I need it though.
mtnman
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