Water Schematic Review Needed

[DanB]

As my wife would really like to be able to actually use the toilet in our trailer, this weekends project will be to replumb the water system. I have drawn up a schematic for the basic system. I'm planning on using PEX and press-in fittings into a homerun manifold.

I'll attach an image of what I'm thinking abot doing. Any comments or suggestion would be greatly appreciated!

[Melody Ranch]

How about a water filter?
How about a ready to use winterizing adaptor?

Things I am contemplating for my Caravel.

[Anon]

Dan,

Put in a water heater by-pass.
It will really help you with saving on water line anti-freeze.
Turn it on by-pass the water heater when you go to winterize and you will not have to use a TON of anti-freeze.
Oh yeah, like what was pointed out earlier, a filter would be a good addition.

[DanB]

I had in the bypass, but forgot what it was for!

So now I have two more questions:

-How do I winterize this system? Would it be possible to adapt an air fitting to just blow it out?

-Where should I place a water filter? I have two inlets. I'm thinking directly under the cold water manifold inlet?

[Jim Clark]

Originally Posted by DanB

I had in the bypass, but forgot what it was for!

So now I have two more questions:

-How do I winterize this system? Would it be possible to adapt an air fitting to just blow it out?

-Where should I place a water filter? I have two inlets. I'm thinking directly under the cold water manifold inlet?

You don't need the front fill unless it is a pour fill for the tank and not a connection. You can fill the tank by opening the pump bypass. You do need a vent on the tank, which a pour fill would do. You should include an accumulator to reduce the chance of a water hammer. Depending on how you feel you may want unions on each side of the pump for ease of removal same for the water heater which valves and a bypass would be nice to have. As far as filter you may just want to filter the water to the cold water of the sink as who cares about bath water or use one of the inline filters. I don’t drink water from my tanks or campgrounds we use bottled water for drinking and most cooking.

[DanB]

Thanks for the suggestions so far! Keep them coming, I love this place!

The second inlet is for "pour" and there is vent line present. Putting the filters under the sink would work. No sense filtering bath water.

Regarding the water heater: The press-in fittings can easily be removed, so unions are not neccesary.

Where should I place an accumulator?

[Chuck]

in my early-70's safari, there are:

low point drains, in the bath area, and in the galley area, for both the hot line, and the cold line....

an over-pressure relief valve...(which others have said is unneccessary...but airstream thought it was, back then).

check valves after the pressure regulator, and before the pump...

for that reason, blowing out the water with a blow-out plug will NOT protect the pump. actually, you'll never get "all" the water out, anyway, so IMO, best to use a water heater bypass and winterizing kit, which will allow you to draw antifreeze directly from the bottle, into the pump, and through the system.

[peegreen]

Some think all incoming water should be filtered to avoid sediment in the water heater.

[Jim Clark]

Originally Posted by peegreen

Some think all incoming water should be filtered to avoid sediment in the water heater.

That is what the drain valve on the bottom a hotwater tanks is for blow it out once or twice a year. I rebuilt the hotwater heater on my 69 Globetrotter and the tank was clean. Each to his own.

[Jim Clark]

Originally Posted by DanB

Thanks for the suggestions so far! Keep them coming, I love this place!

The second inlet is for "pour" and there is vent line present. Putting the filters under the sink would work. No sense filtering bath water.

Regarding the water heater: The press-in fittings can easily be removed, so unions are not neccesary.

Where should I place an accumulator?

boats.com - How To: Water System Installation

Camping World - Shurflo Accumulator Tank

[Frank's Trailer Works]

Thank you for asking these questions for me, and doing the schematic too... thank you so much, you have helped me tremendously. My trailer has a bastardized system that is only able to use city water. I want to re-do the entire system and add back in a tank. Boon-docking is our ultimate goal.
Does there need to be a check valve after the city water inlet or does the pressure regulator hold the water back when the pump is pressurizing the system? Is the single arrow symbol a check valve? One last question; is the drain between the tank and the pump needed if the tank itself has a drain?

[TomW]

Originally Posted by 62overlander

... Does there need to be a check valve after the city water inlet or does the pressure regulator hold the water back when the pump is pressurizing the system? Is the single arrow symbol a check valve? ...

A single arrow is usually a check valve.

Some regulators have a check valve built in to them.

Yes, you need a check valve or water will shoost out of your shore water connection when you are running the water pump without a shore water hose attached.

I have a check valve, but it only seals 99%; I cap the shore water inlet when it is not in use.

Tom

[Anon]

Originally Posted by peegreen

Some think all incoming water should be filtered to avoid sediment in the water heater.

Good idea.
Can you imagine what water heaters have to look like on the inside?

[DanB]

I've revised the schematic to include an accumulator adjacent to the pump, but before the check valve.

I've also included a water heater bypass to facilitate easier winterization.

Finally, I've inserted a full system filter. This will require an additional run from the water tank to a tee prior to the manifold, but is probably worth it.

I'm gonna get out the sawzall Saturday. I hope this works

[Smokin Camel]

just a thought....try the accumulator on the other side of the check valve. The heater may not influence pressure very much but if the accumulator is on the other side it will even out any ripples from kicking on the hot water.

I would be curious to hear other thoughts on this?

[urbanfood]

you could install one of the shur flo smart sensor water pumps and forget abouy the accumulator tank. i've ordered one but won't have a review of it for a few months, however a few people on the forums really like the smart sensors.

Save at RV Partscenter - RV Parts and Supply

[markdoane]

The accumulator definitely goes past the check valve. You can buy larger accumulators at Lowes for less money.

The accululator will take care of thermal expansion when the water heater fires up with cold water. Otherwise the excess volume will leak out of the water heater pressure relief valve.

I have an accumulator that will discharge 1/2 gal of water without the pump turning on. Very nice for washing hands or getting a drink, late at night.

[amalgamator]

Hello!

Very helpful schematic! I would like to know how it went and if you would do anything differently?

[easyride]

Originally Posted by DanB

I've revised the schematic to include an accumulator adjacent to the pump, but before the check valve.

I've also included a water heater bypass to facilitate easier winterization.

Finally, I've inserted a full system filter. This will require an additional run from the water tank to a tee prior to the manifold, but is probably worth it.

I'm gonna get out the sawzall Saturday. I hope this works

Looks like you need 1 more ball valve for the bypass on W.H.Dave

[MTsafari]

Dan,
Looks like I am also going to need to replace my fresh water system as well. My trailer is a 23' 1970 Safari with rear bath.

Any suggestions now after you've done this replacement? Did you use PEX.

Thanks,
Tim