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Old 09-09-2007, 03:35 PM   #15
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1972 25' Tradewind
Madison , Wisconsin
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Posts: 396

just a thought....try the accumulator on the other side of the check valve. The heater may not influence pressure very much but if the accumulator is on the other side it will even out any ripples from kicking on the hot water.

I would be curious to hear other thoughts on this?

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Old 09-09-2007, 03:49 PM   #16
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
Venice , California
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ditch the accumulator

you could install one of the shur flo smart sensor water pumps and forget abouy the accumulator tank. i've ordered one but won't have a review of it for a few months, however a few people on the forums really like the smart sensors.

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Old 09-09-2007, 04:05 PM   #17
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The accumulator definitely goes past the check valve. You can buy larger accumulators at Lowes for less money.

The accululator will take care of thermal expansion when the water heater fires up with cold water. Otherwise the excess volume will leak out of the water heater pressure relief valve.

I have an accumulator that will discharge 1/2 gal of water without the pump turning on. Very nice for washing hands or getting a drink, late at night.
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Old 06-14-2008, 05:18 PM   #18
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1966 24' Tradewind
Valley Village , California
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How did it turn out?


Very helpful schematic! I would like to know how it went and if you would do anything differently?
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Old 06-14-2008, 08:04 PM   #19
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1973 27' Overlander
1963 19' Globetrotter
Naples , Florida
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Originally Posted by DanB View Post
I've revised the schematic to include an accumulator adjacent to the pump, but before the check valve.

I've also included a water heater bypass to facilitate easier winterization.

Finally, I've inserted a full system filter. This will require an additional run from the water tank to a tee prior to the manifold, but is probably worth it.

I'm gonna get out the sawzall Saturday. I hope this works
Looks like you need 1 more ball valve for the bypass on W.H.Dave
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Old 08-01-2008, 08:23 PM   #20
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1970 23' Safari
Columbia Falls , Montana
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Looks like I am also going to need to replace my fresh water system as well. My trailer is a 23' 1970 Safari with rear bath.

Any suggestions now after you've done this replacement? Did you use PEX.

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Old 08-09-2008, 04:21 PM   #21
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1992 36' Land Yacht
Oroville , California
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water filters

I sell Solid Carbon block Water filters.
I totally live by this product, and for
many years have had these filters at my
house and have provided them to others
who care about their water quality.

Especially when you travel and use water
from various sources, this is the way to
assure safe water. Feel Free to contact
me for more information. Laurel
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Old 01-07-2009, 06:04 PM   #22
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1965 22' Safari
memphis , Tennessee
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i have been reading this thread and working on the design of my water system as well. i have a couple of questions regarding the accumulator tank. i purchased one at lowe's as someone mentioned previously and was wondering if this would affect where my city water inlet is located? in other words if the city water is located on the end of the trailer after the accumulator will water flow backwards thru the accumulator and fill the fresh water tank? i'm a little confused on how the accumulator actually works. the second question deals w/ the accumulator itself. in the provided directions it indicates that the pressure in the accumulator tank must equal the pressure of the incoming water supply. do those of you who own similar lowes type tank adjust your pressure depending on what your city connection is, or what your pump happens to pump?


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