Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-09-2007, 03:35 PM   #15
4 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Madison , Wisconsin
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 396

just a thought....try the accumulator on the other side of the check valve. The heater may not influence pressure very much but if the accumulator is on the other side it will even out any ripples from kicking on the hot water.

I would be curious to hear other thoughts on this?

Smokin Camel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2007, 03:49 PM   #16
Rivet Master
urbanfood's Avatar
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Venice , California
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 672
ditch the accumulator

you could install one of the shur flo smart sensor water pumps and forget abouy the accumulator tank. i've ordered one but won't have a review of it for a few months, however a few people on the forums really like the smart sensors.

Save at RV Partscenter - RV Parts and Supply


*by asking the above question,
i verify that i have already used
the search feature to the best of my ability...
urbanfood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2007, 04:05 PM   #17
Site Team
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,098
Images: 59
The accumulator definitely goes past the check valve. You can buy larger accumulators at Lowes for less money.

The accululator will take care of thermal expansion when the water heater fires up with cold water. Otherwise the excess volume will leak out of the water heater pressure relief valve.

I have an accumulator that will discharge 1/2 gal of water without the pump turning on. Very nice for washing hands or getting a drink, late at night.
markdoane is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2008, 05:18 PM   #18
2 Rivet Member
1966 24' Tradewind
Valley Village , California
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 23
How did it turn out?


Very helpful schematic! I would like to know how it went and if you would do anything differently?
amalgamator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2008, 08:04 PM   #19
Rivet Master
easyride's Avatar
1977 27' Overlander
1973 27' Overlander
1963 19' Globetrotter
Naples , Florida
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,259
Images: 1
Originally Posted by DanB View Post
I've revised the schematic to include an accumulator adjacent to the pump, but before the check valve.

I've also included a water heater bypass to facilitate easier winterization.

Finally, I've inserted a full system filter. This will require an additional run from the water tank to a tee prior to the manifold, but is probably worth it.

I'm gonna get out the sawzall Saturday. I hope this works
Looks like you need 1 more ball valve for the bypass on W.H.Dave
easyride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2008, 08:23 PM   #20
3 Rivet Member
MTsafari's Avatar
1970 23' Safari
Columbia Falls , Montana
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 107
Images: 28
Looks like I am also going to need to replace my fresh water system as well. My trailer is a 23' 1970 Safari with rear bath.

Any suggestions now after you've done this replacement? Did you use PEX.

MTsafari is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2008, 04:21 PM   #21
2 Rivet Member
rollin home's Avatar
1992 36' Land Yacht
Oroville , California
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 76
water filters

I sell Solid Carbon block Water filters.
I totally live by this product, and for
many years have had these filters at my
house and have provided them to others
who care about their water quality.

Especially when you travel and use water
from various sources, this is the way to
assure safe water. Feel Free to contact
me for more information. Laurel
rollin home is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2009, 06:04 PM   #22
2 Rivet Member
1965 22' Safari
memphis , Tennessee
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 47
i have been reading this thread and working on the design of my water system as well. i have a couple of questions regarding the accumulator tank. i purchased one at lowe's as someone mentioned previously and was wondering if this would affect where my city water inlet is located? in other words if the city water is located on the end of the trailer after the accumulator will water flow backwards thru the accumulator and fill the fresh water tank? i'm a little confused on how the accumulator actually works. the second question deals w/ the accumulator itself. in the provided directions it indicates that the pressure in the accumulator tank must equal the pressure of the incoming water supply. do those of you who own similar lowes type tank adjust your pressure depending on what your city connection is, or what your pump happens to pump?


rburditt is offline   Reply With Quote

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Help needed: Water heater lighting... Phil and/or Sue Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 10 03-06-2007 08:27 PM
Hot Water Heater Controler needed NorCal Bambi Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 2 10-05-2005 01:00 PM
hot water help needed !!!! the welshman Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 15 06-28-2005 04:04 AM
COLD Water Heater help needed! ViewRVs Water Heaters, Filters & Pumps 3 02-04-2004 06:38 AM
schematic needed! john hd Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 7 04-07-2003 11:09 AM

Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:51 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.