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Old 03-12-2013, 10:12 AM   #15
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I'd have to agree with Protagonist and Sandhill as you are both right. It depends on the design of the device. Some are designed to operate in flowing conditions only. A different design is required to provide pressure control in flowing and static states. I have a long history with this in the O&G industry. It may not be apparent in looking at the valve, but the latter is likely more expensive.

Don
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:11 AM   #16
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Static pressure is what leads to stress related failures of plumbing systems especially modern plastic systems. A regulator that only works under flow is useless. There are such things as flow restrictors that limit flow for water conservation purposes. Every modern shower head has a flow restrictor.

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Old 05-08-2013, 07:26 AM   #17
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Ok I just called Watts the manufacturer of my new water pressure regulator and they said that the pressure should not creep up to the supply pressure when there is no flow. This behavior is not normal or desired.

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Old 05-12-2013, 11:28 AM   #18
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Sucess finally, I went to Lowe's and returned my $30 Watts water pressure regulator and bought the $70 all metal one and the new one works like it should. As soon as I turned on the water the pressure went to 50 psi and stayed there. I lowered it to 40psi and it is holding steady. It seems that nothing is easy.

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Old 05-12-2013, 12:18 PM   #19
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Regardless of what you regulate the input pressure to, the campground anti-reverse valve, or your water pump system, will lock the water in your trailer plumbing, which will then build up additional pressure by thermal expansion, especially the water heater.

There is meant to be some air space in the water heater to take up some of this pressure increase, but it's not always enough. Some of us have added water pressure accumulators to help.

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Old 05-12-2013, 12:28 PM   #20
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You can add an accumulator or a relief valve that will blow at anything over 50psi. You would need a waste dump line to do this so the water has some place to go. Both would be even better. I don't even have the water heater on so my regulator problems were not due to that. You are going to waste a little water with a relief valve but it is better than a flooded trailer.

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Old 05-12-2013, 01:53 PM   #21
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OK, where is the AS original regulator on a trailer and anyone got a picture of it?
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Old 05-12-2013, 03:20 PM   #22
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Just behind the "wall" where the city water inlet hookup is...in your unit....older ones are different.

SHURflo Wall Mount Pressure Regulator Water Entry : Amazon.com : Automotive

Cant see it here...all one piece on the back of this.
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Old 05-12-2013, 04:35 PM   #23
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Rich,

Never eyeballed it, have to take a look. Thanks.

Gary
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Old 05-12-2013, 05:39 PM   #24
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It would be close to the water inlet. On the center bath units, it is under the closet floor across from the bathroom.

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Old 05-12-2013, 07:26 PM   #25
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Perry, Op's is a 2007...the metal remotely installed brass ones were long gone by the 2000s. His (and mine) are plastic and rubber and part of the fill assembly. They often leak...mine did and I resealed it and got an in line external one.
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:57 PM   #26
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Here is what I installed.

Shop Watts 3/4-in Bronze Female In-Line Pressure Reducing Valve at Lowes.com=

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Old 05-12-2013, 07:59 PM   #27
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I have always used an external regulator. I hook it up first, next to the city water valve. In my mind I may be protecting my hose as well.
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:02 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
I got a similar Watts unit, but already had fittings and a gauge fitted. Mine is external and inline before the AS city water inlet. It rests in the belly wrap compartment and the hose exits through a "door" in the bottom of the compartment.
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