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Old 04-17-2006, 10:26 AM   #1
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Water line leaks

We are looking into having our trailer totaly re-done with pex. How much do you think it would take for a 31 ft center bath and also how many hours to do. We would like to find a plumber to do it here in our home town.



Thanks for any advice,
Becky
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Old 04-17-2006, 11:07 AM   #2
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Becky,

Ron at South Jersey RV redid our 31ft rear bath, and this is what it took:

about 50ft of Pex,
about $150 for fittings and crimps
about $.40/ft for the Pex
and about 12-16 hours to do the whole job.

Good luck.

Frederic
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Old 04-17-2006, 02:14 PM   #3
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Frederic,
Thanks so much for the info. I would love to be able to do what you did to your trailer it looks so nice with the total re-do.



Becky
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Old 04-18-2006, 08:58 AM   #4
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Becky,

Thank you for the kind words. The trailer is back at the shop getting its shakedown problems repaired, but I am very happy with the outcome....it looks like it would have in 1971....sort of, which was my goal. I just couldn't bring myself to do shag...maybe next time.

Frederic
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Old 04-20-2006, 01:06 AM   #5
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Assuming a do-it-yourselfer (read: cheap,poor) were to replace all the plumbing is it going to be cheaper to do pex, or stick with copper? I've got multiple freeze bursts in the lines (copper) leading to the front sink. So far haven't seen any obvious holes in the rear plumbing, but I'm assuming there's probably more - best case scenario is that I only have to replace the lines leading to the front, but worst case is the entire shebang. I haven't yet tested the plumbing since I've currently got the sink detached. I just hope the water heater hasn't froze and cracked!
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Old 04-20-2006, 03:30 PM   #6
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From what I see, Pex is the way to go. I've messed with copper, and I'm no plumber. 3-year olds color better than I flux and solder, LOL. I would rather fit and crimp anyday.

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Old 04-21-2006, 10:56 AM   #7
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How about PVC white plastic, which can be glued together. It is easy to work with, and more cost effective than PEX, or copper.--Frank S
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Old 04-21-2006, 05:39 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank S
How about PVC white plastic, which can be glued together. It is easy to work with, and more cost effective than PEX, or copper.--Frank S
PVC pipe is not approved for use with hot water, you would have to use CPVC which is also a glue together pipe requiring a special glue. The problem with this type of piping is how brittle it is when used in a travel trailer. PEX is really the way to go if you are planing to re-pipe. You will pay a little more in the beginning, but you will end up with a first rate water system that will give you few problems.

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Old 04-22-2006, 11:07 AM   #9
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Plus, PEX won't burst, like PVC or CPVC. I believe my PEX is rated to 120psi.

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Old 04-22-2006, 02:57 PM   #10
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Smaller diameter PVC and CPVC (1/2 inch or 3/8 inch) is rated in excess of 1000psi so bursting would not be an issue. The special glue costs no more than the glue for regular PVC (white kind). In the amounts you would buy it's only a couple of dollars. With either types, joint prep is a must. Rough up the ends and fittings with sand paper or use the pipe cleaner (purple stuff) to prep the ends before the application of the glue then hold the joint tight for 30 sec to allow time for the glue to set and weld the joint together.

It's the non-flexability of the PVC that's an issue. Constant vibration can cause small cracks and then eventual failure of the pipe and even the glue joints if they are not set properly. PVC is not ideal for locations where alot of movement is allowed. Working in tight spaces with the glue and solovents is bad for you. Be sure to have alot of ventilation. I like the copper in my Caravel but will admit, PEX is what I will use during the rebuild, with maybe the long runs in copper.
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Old 04-23-2006, 07:41 AM   #11
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Michael,

Thanks for the clarification. I hope I never run into the campground that has 1000psi water pressure!


Frederic
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Old 04-23-2006, 08:45 AM   #12
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We're sticking with copper, at least for the time being! Sure, it's bad for freezes. When we dewinterized just yesterday, we had a geyser under the back closet floor. However, an hour or so later, and the whole thing was fixed. (Next time, we'll not only blow out the water, but also add the antifreeze.)

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Old 04-25-2006, 01:43 PM   #13
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I thought I was goin' campin'

Just watered my 76 Argosy20 getting ready for a weekend at the beach. Turned on the pump to find no flow at any faucet...but planty of water coming through the bottom skin aft. OMG! Took off the aft skin piece for nice view of weaste system, but the water is supply side and I suppose above the plywood. Most likely under shower. No water visible topside in the bathroom.
Do I have to take out the fixtures to get to water lines? What is the sequence so as to do as little damage as possible? (I am the proverbial bull in the china closet.)
Needing words of encouragement...

Nick
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Old 04-25-2006, 09:42 PM   #14
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Nick,
We are pretty new to all the plumbing, but I think you need to check the pipes inside to see if you see where the water leak is.



Becky
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